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I can not speak from personal experience, as I've only wound, but not finished, my own pickups for a bass guitar - but my question is would it make sense for you to dip your pickups in wax or some other material?   I know that older pickups were done in wax - I think the idea was to prevent the wire from coming loose with all of the vibration and shock.   
I think you have built something you will always cherish.   My 100% congratulations to you on sticking with it.   Fantastic work.   And I know why you did it...   Because you were able to rationalize purchasing even MORE tools.......  :-)  :-)
- Paul

Someone out there might be able to help.   I bought a CP-70B over the weekend (LONG STORY) - and it's all set up and sounds great.   But I was looking at the manual this morning (nothing better to do at 6:00 AM)...  and I all of a sudden realized that there weren't any leg braces (legs - yes, but braces - no).    UH OH.   I'm 100% sure that the guy I purchased this from never had them either (it had sat in his home studio for years, and we pulled it out together - no braces at that point).
So... Here's the question - I want to just make a set.   I can weld these up in no time.   I would just need some basic measurements.   What is the tube length (excluding the end parts).  How long is the flat part that attaches to the base of the keyboard and how far from the "bend" is the center of the hole in it?  On the bottom part, how long is that attachment to the brace, and again, how far from the pivot to the center of the hole?
If anyone wants to take some pictures with a tape measure next to one of these, it would be REALLY APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!
I know these braces are scarce, so I'll be cutting and bending some tubing!!!
THANKS!
- Paul

Sorry for the delay, was only able to get time away from other stuff this weekend.   I ran a wire from the case to the metal on the case of the amp - no change.   But...   When I touched my hand to the amp case, or touched my hand to the 1/4" speaker jack, the volume of the hum went down considerably. 
Because access to the innards of the amp case require a good deal of dis-assembly to analyze, I did not make any steps in that direction.  I was VERY surprised by how dramatic the reduction in hum was as I touched the grounded areas.   But at the same time, it definitely did NOT cure it - there is still hum there (and it will be hard to play if I need to keep one hand on the speaker connection... :-)
I've swapped out the 12AX/AU7s, as well as the rectifier tube.   Next time I open it up I'll check all the voltage measurement points.
- Paul

Thanks Doc and Steve.  No time to test yet - will report back when there's progress!

Will try both in the next couple of days, and will report back.  THANKS!!!

I've replaced the filter caps to no avail.   I've watched Uncle Doug amp videos (I've even built my own Fender tube clone from scratch).   I've wiggled a few things, touched a few things to see if noise was dramatically different.

I know this isn't going to be easy.    I've replaced (temporarily) all the tubes.   I'm using two prong cord, but have swapped polarity.   Neither impacted the problem.

Noise increases with volume - I believe that's an indication of the issue being in the 12AU7 area of the amp (before the 6V6 tubes).

Power wires are twisted, as are speaker.   Tried touching the 2.1" input - louder.   Touched the pickup bar - modulated the hum.   

Tried increasing and decreasing the volume with the on-board trim pot - just lowered or increased the overall volume, still has the hum (goes up and down with volume).

It's pretty significant - it's very prevalent.   Key sound is probably 20-30% louder than hum.

Any cool thoughts?   I've read a lot of Jezza's posts on his amp, and others as well... 

- Paul

Well - success!   Yes, this was about the easiest fix so far, although I thought it would be the hardest.   Got nearly all of the keys sounding on a rather light touch.   I suspect there's refinement in my future, but right now it's playing pretty well.   On to the noisy amp issue...

Thanks!   I'll fiddle with one key and report back!   Definitely a 112, not a 112a - sorry about that!

Sorry about that confusion - the keyboard is definitely a 112.   SORRY!

Hey all!   I'm not that experienced with piano actions, but I suspect my issue isn't going to be that hard for some of you!!!   Most of the notes on my 112 sound with only nominal key pressure, but some are silent - the only way to get a tone is to strike the key pretty hard.  I'd say this impacts about 10-15% of the keys.

I've looked through the 112 manual, and I believe the solution is spelled out somewhere in the "touch" section, but my lack of keyboard action knowledge and the terms associated with it are stopping me.  From what I can gather, it sounds as though I might need to adjust either/both the capstan screw and/or the regulating screw.  From my description, is there a sense what to start with?   My concern is I don't want to make things worse (not too big of a concern, but figure someone out there will have a piece of advice. 

The keyboard is definitely a 112, not a 112a. 

Thanks!!!

- Paul

Total success.  I used a rather large tie wrap, and on the end that has the "capture" on it, I used a sharp knife to make a very small /~1/16" hook.  Worked fabulously - all keys are working and even height-wise.   I have other questions - I'll start a separate post for those.  THANKS AGAIN!!!

Steve!   I think you and I are 100% on the same page as to process.   Thanks so much for the reply.    Your suggestion is exactly what I'm planning to do (hopefully tonight).   Yes, I've already used the bright light (definitely necessary).   I need to figure out what kind of really thin, stiff wire I can find to make a hook out of...   :-)
I checked the springs, they all appear good.   I think I have to do this with the keys IN, as because if I try to do this with the keys out, I can't lift the back end of the action high enough to wiggle the key in.   And I'm not comfortable lowering the adjustment screw in the back on six or seven keys (yet) to get them in, and then raise it.   If I fail, maybe that will be my next idea.
As to action and the manual, the 112 manual definitely shows my action.   
THANKS AGAIN!   More to come!

Yeah - I only buy at Goodwill now...   :-)
- Paul

All -

So happy to have found this resource!!!   I was at an estate sale yesterday, and picked up a mottled pink Wurlitzer 112(a).   Serial number is in the mid-4000s.   Build date is 1/16/1956.   It has legs (but they're the stool legs I realized when I was about a foot and a half off the floor!!!) and the pedal.   Amp works - was popping, I re-seated the tubes, and now I've just got some volume-linked hiss (I assume I'll be replacing the filter caps in the metal can)...  All the tines are there.   Keys are perfect.   Looks like it was hardly used.   It had been stored in an unheated garage for eons, but condition wise, I'd give it an 8+.

Here's my question.   About 7 keys around middle C (from Bb to E) were not in position when I got it (turns out they were inside the case of the keyboard).  I installed them by lifting the hammers, etc. without difficulty.  The problem is (and I'm sure there are people already rolling their eyes) - the mechanism above these keys isn't sitting right.   I'm not a piano technician at all, but am pretty handy.   I downloaded the 112 manual, and studied it, and it appears to me that the "fly" (part number 9 in figure 6) is leaning back on these notes, allowing the butt to droop (whose butt wouldn't after 65 years... :-) ) down toward the key when looking at it from the front.   I believe I need to somehow recapture the fly between the regulator screw (part number 15) and the butt (part number 11).   Unfortunately, I do NOT know how to do this.  :-)

I tried for two hours using stiff wire, soft wire, long pliers, key strokes, front side, back side, you name it.   I failed.  Does anyone have a hint on how to accomplish this?   I was thinking maybe I would put the keyboard facing down across some stands and let gravity do the work as I manipulated the keys.   Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.  GREATLY APPRECIATED!

I'll keep everyone up to date as I progress - I suspect others might benefit.  I'll add pictures as soon as I can figure out how to shrink their size.

I'm located in the Boston, MA area if anyone wants to check it out!!!

- Paul

PS - Just FYI - I had an EP-200 in the late 70s which I dropped off at our local Goodwill in about 1994.  A little bit of regret there.   :-)   And I have had a Stage 73 for a long time - need to pull that up and get it back in gear too!)