Messages

First off- Key leveling should be the first place you want to start with when doing work to your piano, this will start you off with a solid foundation-

If the Miracle Mod is installed correctly there is no need to increase escapement at all. If the Miracle Mod is installed correctly it will make any action creamy light and fast. If the bumps are installed too far back it can cause lost motion in the damper(loose bridle strap) which will cause improper tone and thunk sounds due to improper lifting times of the damper.

Also the affects of improperly installed bump mod will be the loss of hammer throw,  improper stop lock and possible tine blocking. If your mod is not installed right it will have an adverse affect on your action. it's vital that it be installed properly.

In your case you may have excessive aftertouch causing your hammer to block tines or double strike, This can be tested by pressing the key to it's full downward natural stop which is a standardl key dip of 3/8th and then pressing it more to see how far the hammer travels up( which will be the amount of after touch you have) often this is about 1/16 of an inch possibly more.

When playing harder this excessive after touch comes into play and can reek havoc on action causing double striking. This combined with lost motion of dampers is common and a major cause of bad action. Aftertouch can be cured by securing a keybed with excessive flex and by adding shims to the front rail to stop the excessive after touch.

Key dip is not set on a Rhodes by adding or removing balance rail felts, this is how you set key height. Key dip is not set by the front rail either, although you can add shims to stop excsessive key dip, but by adding too many or interfering with key travel you will enter into double striking and hammer bounce.
Key dip is factory set when the piano is set up and made, and also is a product of stop lock position. Which is when the pedestal is in full contact with the hammer cam ,that would be your stop lock position and how key dip is set.

Other ways of changing key dip would be to shave or shim the action rail along with the side harp supports but that's another story in itself...................

Bottom line is don't give up, there has never been a Fender Rhodes I have ever seen that could not be set up in a killer way-

We have new Fender Rhodes dampers out this week that will be a vast improvement for any Fender Rhodes owner. They are the right material and are modified to inhibit any flex and bounce of the damper that causes weak dampening especially from the bridle strap to the felt.

The problem with pulling it out of the box is, that it is no longer "New In Box" and it might as well be any MK5 now you see on Ebay.  Major mistake by him, I was very suprised to see that myself.

Once you open the box  your done, it's just like saving the box. That may help with the sale price but it does not mean N.I.B.

All the ebay fee's it's cost to list that piano for the last 2 years, all the money invested into the piano when purchased. Man I would have unloaded that piano long ago. There is an old commomly coined business term. Turn and Earn.

As in Realestate the buyer sets the price not the seller.

Oh stand corrected! I get them confused sometimes haha.

Oh man ,that hurts.

Actually, this tine and the brass plated tines are from 74- early 75 - at least that is the only years I have ever seen them in.  Have you seen them in 73? I have seen a number of the  golden tines and they always came out of 74-75.  It's cool to see a full piano with them. They are my personal favorite tines. I like to hold random tines in my hand remove the spring and pick the end with my finger nail, on really good tines you get this really cool sustain with harmonics out of it. I have tested many many many tines this way and found these tines to have the best sound. But of course I am not one to debate different tines, I believe they all can sound the same in a piano with the right voicing, to me a good tine is a good tine, it does not matter what factory or era it came from. If it oscillates correctly, has attack and lengthy sustain it's a good tine to me.

Bad oscillation now that is the big question- Does it derive from cracks in the generater block? Does it derive from a bad swage or grind? Does it derive from a bad press fit of the tine and block? Does it derive from internal stress of the tine? Does it derive from random bad metal composition?

Whatever the answer, it seems there have always been bad tines that oscillate improperly and a good amount of these were left in the piano from the factory. It's almost part of the charm Maybe? naah!!

I just know that I would have been completely out of low tines a long time ago if I changed everyone that wavered, think of it as a natural pitch shift or a phase shifter. It's character!!  

It's a secret potion that will be uncovered one way or another hopefully, someday someway..........

Upon inspection of various tines under microscope it is noticed that the generater block has hairline cracks in it around the base of the tine. This is where the tine is press fitted into the block. Since the tine is much harder than the block, something has to give. The tolerance of the hole is +/- a  very small amount , I suspect that these cracks are and could be a part of the failure of tines, cracks will absorb vibrations and cause loss of tone and sustain. It is noted that a handful of tines were usually bad right out of the factory and needed to be replaced. This could be a point to look at.

If the generater block has been drilled even 5-10,000 th's  to small it could cause the splitting of the block over time or immediately. This would be stress or fatigue and the tine would no longer have it's required tight fit to allow proper vibration or oscillation.


Since these were made before highly precise equipment was used, a small percentage of holes bored from the factory would naturally be off and cause this symptom to happen or it could have been that the base of the tine was   larger. The generater block has a two step bore in it, one side being smaller to hold that tine tightly.  Think of trying to stuff 10 pounds of potatoes in a 5 lb. bag  something has to give.

200 and 200a used different reeds, extremely similiar but different. Around 1975 200A was introduced, speaker placement changed as well as the amplifier, the 200 reeds are the same as the 140B reeds, the newer 200A reed is thicker and has a more mellow tone.

Thank you very much from my heart, I do appreciate the comments of support.

With true gratitude peace and light , Chris Carroll

Hey totalrejekt,
Thank you for that enlightening yet ever so slanting comment. Vintage Vibe's prices and services are fair and honest, not high, who are you to imply or impose your judgement of monitary standards? Maybe they are high to you.


If you looked around you would see we offer the widest range of parts on the planet for vintage keys and we also have the fairest prices. We offer tons of free information on our website as well as you tube, we take time out everyday to talk to people on the phone about their issues and we try to help.  

We go into debt often to introduce new products to market so people like you can have the opportunity to upkeep or improve your vintage Piano. We are a small company selling a handful of products a year ,not huge volumes where we can offer our products for pennies more than it costs us from our manufacturers.


We were selling another companies reeds for the last 2 years, we decided they were not up to standards for everyone, so we invested heavily into new reeds. We lowered the price of reeds by 3.00 dollars per reed. We did not have to do this, our new reeds blow away the old ones, they are not even in the same ballpark. Yet we did lower the price as we were able to do so.

Morelocks are dear friends of Vintage Vibe and Janice is nothing short of the dearest sweetest person to us , I consider her  to be an an extended part of our family. They deserve all the business they can get.

VintageVibe offers a different variety of parts than Morelocks offers, some of the same but many different. We are a current manufacturer of parts in todays market of manufacturing, this means we deal in prices of today.

Morelock's bought out Wurlitzer parts many moons ago (thank goodness) and paid pennies on the dollar for their old stock parts which they have had for ages. That is why they can offer goods at the price they do. Their stock is dwindling down and they have no middle reeds at all. They have not had them for years.

We have made these  middle reeds to guarantee the future life of the Wurlitzer piano. We have spent a ton of money on R&D and in the end the reeds are perfect.
There is nothing worse than doing your best for the community and then reading crap like this from a one time poster on this forum.  Very Insulting and insinuating, I must defend our nature and objective fairness.
Chris Carroll

if you have patience Vintage Vibe is making a 112 pedal, but parts need to be made and designed which we are in the midst of.
www.vintagevibe.com

Hey Ben, Very nice Job, if you need hinges for it, I think I may have a set.  Have you seen the aged black white silver grill?, that's nice too. The new turquoise is obnoxious i think as well.  We did a couple of serious restorations on the Sparkle tops with the big time help of Fred this year and they can definately be an adventure to work on. By the way, it looks like your using a kitchen sponge to apply tolex glue ? Use a  4 inch sponge roller, it's like lightening. I am not sure what tolex glue you used but in the future our tolex glue you can use on the tolex to tolex adhesion no problem, you can re-ajust up till the next day without reapplying new glue.  If you need hammers we have a set as well as some various 1960's parts , tines  and pick ups etc... Good luck with your new toy ! Chris Carroll

Hey Everybody, Great news !!
We have perfected the Wurlitzer reed like nodody's business!!
There has never been another reed like our since the original reeds were made by Wurlitzer, our new reeds are every bit as good or better than the original, and this is no Hype!

We sell them individually or in thier Blank state in Quantity

http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-156-wurlitzer-electric-piano-200-series-reeds.aspx

www.vintagevibe.com

Hi, The only equivalents people out there seem to know about are the garbage from NTE. They are very bad as the parts they sell are usually buy out lots and old stock. They reprint there name on the parts, this means there is little or no QC or real Beta  testing on them. NTE has been sued big time for these reason.
We have spent a long time perfecting the replacement transistors on The Wurlitzer 200 and 200A pianos. We have tested a few major brands and listened for the quitest most consistant company brand, we only buy from these proven company's, then we hand select each transistor for the proper Beta for it's purpose in the amplifier.  They are 2.50 each but hey, we go through alot of work to get the right matched transistors.

www.vintagevibe.com  we can ship them to you postal service Olivier, if need be.

Another note to mention, speakers that are too tight will buzz, you just want them snug but not tight. When the speaker is too tight it presses the gasket too close to the case and causes the cone to vibrate against plastic fibers that stick out due to the tiny hole cut outs. We usually shave these off with a chisel or sand paper. ::: Also, it could be a number of things such as any wire that vibrates against the case once it is closed. We have rubber that is sticky on one side that we use on our Wurlitzers to dampen sympathetic vibrations in the case. If you need some, contact me through our website email. We usuall stick this on the hum shield and inside the case where it's needed most.  make sure all of your case screws under the piano are tight , as inside there are threaded metal pieces that are loose until screwed tightly that will cause buzz, also make sure hinges are tight, Try putting a soft pice of rubber foam on the inner lip under the metal frame of the top lid on the sides of the wurly, just a samll piece.  Good Luck, chris

www.vintagevibe.com

This is somthing we are currently looking into, the idea is to manufacture a 1/2 wood 1/2 plastic hammer to retro fit post 1975 rhodes pianos with. We are in the midst of drawings and shopping for a manufacturer. The hammer pins are the same, it 's the top of the hammer over where the bridle strap goes, which is different and causes an early 1/2 wood hammer to not go up all the way. If you compare the two versions you will notice this, later models have a cut away so to speak/ early models do not and this acts as a break and does not allow the hammer to extend upwards.  Anyway, this is something I have imagined now for some time and we here at Vintage Vibe think it's time to try. We have always noted that the tone comes thru the impact of that rock maple hammer as well as the tone  given from the wood side support which resonates the instrument. There is no resonation from Aluminum and plastic.  When was the last time you saw an instrument of aluminum and plastic?
By the way, we have perfected the Wurlitzer reed for all you guys with a Wurlitzer E.P http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-156-wurlitzer-electric-piano-200-series-reeds.aspx   these are the real deal, no hype best reeds in the world !

We also have a new Rhodes Back Check that we have designed http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-615-rhodes-back-check-kit.aspx  as well as Original Tone Bar Clips on the cheap side ! http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-295-rhodes-piano-tone-bar-clips.aspx

We will let you know how this mod goes after testing, with gratitude, Chris Carroll

Here is a link to shed some light on the Miracle Mod for Rhodes pianos circa 76-77 with the pedestal felt on the hammers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UVcRvnolQQ

Bjammerz  You Rock , awesome presentation man...

[NOTE]

Hi mike, I am not really sure why your keys are off kilter now, I have not seen this in my experiance. Since the felt is the same thickness on all of your bushings it does not make sense that it would unbalance the bushing. Possibly your pins are not straight and now since you have tightened the bushings they hug the angle of the pins more. Before replacing they were loose and floated so to speak around the pin level with the key bed. I am sorry i cannot explain it further without seeing and feeling it myself.  I am sure you know what your doing and can straighten a pin.(br) NOTE: Often times key bushings are more of a balance rail problem than front rail, so in tightening up your piano you may be able to tighten up the piano with only doing the balance rail. A piano has to be well worn to make the front rail sloppy. But I have seen them all both cases plenty of times, mostly it's the balance rail that needs it the most. Good Luck, Chris

[/b]

[Spring clamps verse wedges:]

This job is a time consuming job but nessesary on certain pianos. Anyone can do this with common sence mechanical ability and time on their hands.
Spring clamps verse wedges:  (br)Spring clamps are hard on your fingers, meaning they are harp to spring open, takes a lot of pressure and finger strength. But holds the felt tightly, also harder to see if your felt is straight with the clamp. (br) Wedges:  These are easy to install but can be loose and move, the wedges cost about 8 times as much as a clamp. (br) Installing key bushing felt, remember, do not cut felt  so long that the part inside of the key is too far in, this will interefere with the key pin and cause drag. You should have about a 1/4 of an inch inside the key. The total length of the felt should be about 1/2 inch which you will cut the other 1/4 inch off with a new sharp exacto knife. If the knife is not sharp you may snag the felt and pull it out of the bushing. (br) You will cut the felt flush with the top of the key in a horizontal way with the blade. This is the way to do it if you are going to do all of the keys to give a neat appearance. Take your time do 10-20 a week, no one has to do it all at once, do it when you feel like it. (br) if you are just doing a few, just pre cut the felt to a 1/4 inch and add wood glue tot he felt using a wedge or clamp, it 's fast and easy. (br) By the way, when removing the felts you will saturate them with acetone completly twice and scrape out the old felt while they are wet from the second appplication. This holds true for pedestals felts as well.  (br) In regards to having a professional do this, you could, it would cost you a hefty price, do it yourself and feel proud that you restored your piano. Nobody can take that great feeling from you!

Obvious but don't forget

-If all of your proper voltages are present then you have a physical issue --
Check  shorting jacks  use your meter in the ohms or diode scale to check- --- Check multi pin connectors and the back of the boards they are a main source of problems. They all should be reflowed as intermittancy is common on this type of amplifier.

www.vintagevibe.com  we have videos on all of this, very easy and simple to follow  

[www.vintagevibe.com]

Hi everyone,
Please if anyone is interested in this type of self help, we offer free videos on the subject on our website as well as youtube We have the full length videos for sale on our website. I am surprised in this forum that this is not known as we do this for the comunity at large.  www.vintagevibe.com  Our amp repair videos will walk you thru everything you need to know to figure out your issue.  Thanks, Chris Carroll / Vintage Vibe

Hey Everyone,

I am writing to let anyone know who has purchased a Stage Vibe in the past that we have come up with a mod for it, that we will install for free to anyone who has one purchased before 12-07

The original Stage Vibe as well as the original Jordan pre amp could only handle 2/10th of a volt on the input . With later Rhodes pianos the pick up wiring is different and has a higher output, which can cause the Stage Vibe to distort  if the pick ups are to close to the tine or if the keys are hammered to hard.
Since  December we have added a trim pot that smoothes this all out and we could not be happier with the results. I personally love the Stage Vibe and i am very proud of it.  Just contact us if you want to send yours in for the  free mod.

The FET Tremolo on this unit is So authentic 1960's sound, it is just creamy.

On another note, we are not offering the Quadrapuss at this point, we have sold out of them for the most part, thank you to everyone who took part in the adventure of this piece. As we said in the beginning it was only a 50 pc. run.  It was a very big undertaking to build and offer the Quadrapuss and we sold most of the units at a sale price and very few at the original price needed to make it profitable for us.  Unfortunatly they will go down as collectors items, it is possible we may have a couple more at some point but not now. So again, Thanks to all who took the faith!

The Stage Vibe still lives and is going stronger than ever www.vintagevibe.com for anyone who is interested in this great piece, feel free to call and speak with me anytime 973-989-2178

All the best to everyone in the New Year!
We want to wish John at Major key  Health and Strength Peace and Light during his illness

Thanks for the  DIY tip Steve,  
As far as tolexing your piano it is different on all pianos. To do a correct job that comes out as if it were new from the factory is something that is different from a DIY approach of never doing one before.  For 1 as Steve says it is easy, well let me say it is not easy, there is a lot of thinking and cutting involved. There are a lot of tough angles on the inner lid in particular. It is not an easy job at all to do it the right way. We always have two guys working on the job here at vintage vibe and to do it right with two guys it is always a two day job.

Prep work is key, having a large space for cutting is key, knowing how to cut corners and angles is key, having the right tolex glue is key, no not contact cement, the stuff is horrid.

There is a reason why our prices is 800.00 dollars to retolex a Rhodes ( new hardware included) because it is two days labor with two guys  to do it right.

Old Tolex needs to be removed, including tolex fur or fibers from wood
All holes small or large,all divits, dents, deep scratches need to be filled with car bondo
Bondo needs to dry and then be sanded
All cracks /splits in joints or on flat panel structure need to be glued screwd and clamped
The proper tolex pattern needs to be used as tolex shrinks and stretches causing old patterns to be way off at times.
the smallest dust and glue build up cause bumps and bubbles in new tolex
new tolex shows everything underneath so cleanliness is very important
installing new hardware evenly and the right way takes practice.
there are many many other unmentionables that lead to either a professional looking tolex job or a poorly fashioned amaturish tolex job

these are just some thoughts

Steve, The noise you are hearing when the treble is turned up is natural and happens. The reason is it is about 30DB of  ultra gain on the high end this boost of high brings in all the white noise and hiss associated in that range especially with F.E. T Transsistors. You could try and filter it out but then you would not be getting that frequency range.

This is the exact eq circuit as the Dyno My Piano Pro Piano. The original Dyno does the exact same thing, anytime you jack up the frequency (Treble) into that range, that's what you hear, it's amplifing all the noise normally not heard in a lower freq setting. This circuit is a hyper active treble boost unlike a normal treble pot.
This is part of that 1970's "Dyno  bell sound " You just have to eq it properly. I have never had a reason to open that treble up all the way ,not even 3/4 of the way. To get a crisp sound, turn the prescence up ,the treble to about 1/4 to 1/2  and you should get a crip sound.

I hope this helps, I have looked in my spam filters as well as my in box for an email from you and I do not see anything. We also have a phone number that everyone knows. 973-989-2178  Thanks, Chris

Hey Guys, This is Chris Carroll of Vintage Vibe. I was just reading over some of the posts on the Miracle Mod.

The Mod was originally made for the older sloped style pianos, after inspecting the original 1960's fender Rhodes Silver Sparkle top Pianos. They had the original mod Bump. I fashioned our modification after that mod. The action on the 1960's Silver Sparkle top Tear drop felt hammer pianos is amazing. When I discovered the mod i knew why.

In 1978 they came out with the pedestal mod and it was supposed to be an ingenious new  design, but it actually had been designed in the 1960's. A leverage point to throw the hammer easier.

Anyway, we do not use a felt or a piece of flat plastic, this mod bump we use is designed on the same principle shape as the original 1960's bump. We custom cut them for our kits and include original Steinway pedestal felts.

Not every piano reacts the same way with the mod, all work though, some respond better than others, but like some have said, you need to tweak your own personal piano to get the optimal performance out of it.

If you have it installed incorrectly, it is not going to work 100% correctly, if you are not that familiar with the mechanics of a Rhodes and you just wing it, you might not get the results you expect.

I for one use it on a good number of pianos that come in for restoration, I have had miracles happen in regards to action, some better than others but, if I have decided the piano needs a lift, it has always been worth it.

In regards to saturation of pedestal felts with silicone, Vintage Vibe never does this, That's right I said it, we never do this,  It's not worth it, it does little or nothing. it's Rhodes Folklore. It won't hurt anything but it barely helps if any.....I know alot of you will disagree but that's ok, I would implement other measures to improve action before spraying felts.

So, I would never glue down felts, if you have new felts the action should slide easily across the new pedestal.

One last thing I take the products i sell seriously, i believe in the Miracle Mod and would not sell it if I did not. I do not need the money that bad!

All the best, Chris Carroll / Vintage Vibe  www.vintagevibe.com

A while ago we  have drawn and made available for anyone a free schematic of the original Dyno my Piano "Pro Piano Mod"  to copy. We also sell the completed board on our website if anyone is interested. it comes with battery option as well as power wart.  It is the  best replica around without having dual concentric pots. www.vintagevibe.com

They are on DVD only. We  will be putting out some new Rhodes videos shortly. All the best, Chris

Hi, I have a comentary on this, no offence meant,

I really do not get this mentality, you and some others have. You say no offence but I can't pay 60.00 dollars for transistors when i only paid 150.00 for the suitcase cabinet ??  , yes you can, exactly , thats the reason you can, you only have 150.00 into it.  

As a repair shop we get this once in a while from certain people and I speak with other repair shops who say the same thing, these people call up and say, uh, how much for an over haul?  You tell them the price and then they say, Uh, well, i only paid 250.00 for it on Ebay,  yes, exactly again, (Since when does parts or repair costs equate to what you paid for somthing??) ( or even better why should what you paid affect what we charge) It would be the same if you paid 5,000 or 500 In fact you should be grateful you bought something so cheaply and therefore be ready to drop some money into it.  

There are two types of vintage owners, ones that do whatever it takes to cherish the classic vintage pieces they own and those that want to get by as cheaply as possible and therefore sacrafice the quality of their instrument.


Personally I think these instruments should be owned by musicians who are preparred to restore them or at least love them as they are  rare and never going to be made like this again.

I honestly do not know where you can find these transistors hand matched besides www.vintagevibe.com  I think you can get them from NTE, they are like 24 dollars per transistor unmatched. Good luck, when your amp blows again from unmatched transistors you know where to go.

Again, no offence intended, this is just a commentary.

www.vintagevibe.com  reeds for days !!

www.vintagevibe.com   excellent video

Does anyone have one or know of where i can get one fast !  chris@vintagevibe.com  www.vintagevibe.com    Thanks !!!

www.vintagevibe.com   look under Rhodes parts, action parts, Miracle Mod

If you have a buzz sound after 5 times playing it, something must have happened, could be a loose ground. If you want to send it back for us to look at , we will cover half of the shipping from Europe.  All the best, Chris

www.vintagevibe.com     They are rare and out of circulation, they also need to be matched to worked right.

Where can you find matched pairs ?  www.vintagevibe.com

Ok, so you think this is original. What is on the male end connection, rather what does it look like and consist of? Is it original looking ? Right angle or straight. If it is straight it make no sence. Also on the picture there are non original felts on the harp brackets as well as a wing nut , non original. There is non original  replaced tone bar screw as well. That rhodes has been around the block many times. The red wire going to the 1/4 inch jack also looks to have been replaced. Anything is possible but I say it's not original.

Actually someone like Freddan or James Garfield or Mike Peterson maybe able to ad some light to this as they are more of the Rhodes experts, I just repair them and play them. These guys study them and work on them and in Mike petersons case  works and designs for Rhodes Music corp.

I have literally repaired over 500 Rhodes pianos as well as played countless others and I have never seen a 1/4 inch jack from the factory. From the mid1960's to the last one from the factory. In all states, to my knowledge there was never a 1/4 inch jack, also it does not make much sence to have a 1/4 inch in there as it is too big and bulky to be next to the longest tine and tonebar.  1/4 inch jack is 3-5 times bigger than an RCA set up, usually requiring a thicker guage cable as well. Just does not make sence, seems anyone could figure this out. Theres my 2 cents

Hey Spookyman,
When you are ready we can work out a deal on the quadrapuss. We really appreciate our  past relationship with you. If you want a quadrapuss in the future let us know. We can offer you a discount since you have already invested in Vintage Vibe.

Hey,  If you need a clav tech I would suggest Vintage Vibe. I personally  highly reccomend them. ( yes I own the company) .   More than glad to help if we can www.vintagevibe.com
if you call ask for Chris

Hello Everyone,  We just today are making plans for expansion and have found a possible  building site. We need to raise some capital this month to aquire a building so we are having a sale.  This would be the perfect time to add a Quadrapuss to your collection. Instead of the 550.00 price we are taking 100.00 dollars off.
This month of March it will be sold for  450.00 . I know this is sudden but opportunity knocks  (for all of us).  When we are sure about our new location we will let you know. It's in a great city with a huge scene and history.

Hi,
first of all I want to personally thank everyone who understands the point I was trying to make from certain remarks about price on our product. The people in the know are such a genuine hapiness for me. They along with my imagination towards building products are the reason Vintage Vibe continues to make products. In the end  we hope to achieve reliable instruments that players can enjoy for years to come. Something that puts a smile on their face when they show their friends.
A few of you really were poignant ,honest and open as well as really having a grasp on the reality of small manufacturing in the USA.  Mike was right when he said Quote  " I can't believe they are selling them so cheap"

This is how I feel,  If people had any idea of the amount of debt, time, material and labor cost, R&D  that will never be recouped on small runs of production. The headaches and heartaches, the trial and error time that go into making something you believe in for the betterment of an instrument just to hear someone say it cost too much, they must be making a killing or their profit is so high......
Just to hear that is the lowest point for anyone who really  cares or tries to do somthing positive. it's hurtful and uninformed.

Our cost on the Quadrapuss is around 385.00 per  unit and we are charging 550.00 per unit. Does that sound like good business to you ?

What we are offering, what we have been thru, you would think people would be lining up around the corner for these, we made these for you !

Not to get rich but to create a buzz ,something everyone can be proud to own, Hand made, guaranteed ,meticulously designed with quality parts and at an incredibly reasonable fair price.

Without the support of the community ,one day we are all going to wake up and there will be no Vintage Vibe, no Speakeasy, no Major Key, all because we did not support them.  Luckily  for us there are more supporters with positive vibes than the small minority who cannot think out of the box long enough to realize  good things are usually fleeting.

Once again, I humbly thank everyone who supports us in this venture. If ever there is anything we can do just ask!.

PS. On a positive note we are getting some incredible feedback on the QuadraPuss by their new owners

Not just in commerce but in the world of ideas too our age is putting on a veritable clearance sale. Everything can be had so dirt cheap that one begins to wonder whether in the end anyone will want to make a bid.
Soren Kierkegaard

I honestly do not know what to say to this kind of thinking or post. Anybody ?

Hey Everyone, we have all parts in for our new "Stage Vibe" except for the name plates which we are waiting on now.  It should be ready in about two weeks.  If you are planning an upgrade to your rhodes and our Quadrapuss is a little over your budget. Than our Stage Vibe will be just the ticket. It has the sweetest Tube-ish sounding mono Tremolo around as well as plus 24 DB pre amp and active EQ, Incredibly musical ,rich and full of  that VINTAGE VIBE you look for !!
       
           
It should be around 350.00  it will come on it own rail you just drop in powered by 3  9 volts or  AC power supply included.  If anyone has any interest or question feel free to call us or email us. 973-989-2178   www.vintagevibe.com

Stig mentions this is something Vintage Vibe sells and that is correct. What he is not correct about is it being a piece of tie wrap, Sorry that is not us. Our "Miracle Mod" is a pedestal bump made from a half round just like the original Fender Rhodes Pedestal Mod from the 1960's. It is a great Mod and  works wonders. We have nothing but praise from customers about it as well as using it ourselves when needed.   The wonderful thing about this mod as opposed to a piece of  flat square Tie Wrap ??  is that it  can be put anywhere on the pedestal depending on the year because it is a 1/2 round and will work with various  pedestal to hammer placement. It is the exact same principle as the original 1960's Fender Rhodes pedestals which had incredible action.
As far as setting the escapement low to achieve a sweet action, this is not true. The escapement has to be set at the correct height for optimal performance, messing with it will give you secondary issues such as damper, voicing , key dip and hammer throw issues.  A pedestal Mod is not always needed this is true, but when it is needed i would go with our Miracle Mod anyday over the other available options.

The mod in the picture is a back check mod known and used by any real piano technician.  It is not a "Dyno Mod" it is a piano mod for bouncy action. The pedestal mod is the same principal used by Vintage Vibe in our Miracle Mod. In the picture they used a piece of tine cut to 3/8 of an inch. It is supposed to reflect the original Fender Rhodes Pedestal Mod.  It looks poorly done. We sell this mod to anyone who needs better action. Best, Chris

Hi Everyone,  This is Chris Carroll from Vintage Vibe.com I just wanted to let everyone know officially we  now have the complete Quadrapuss  in stock. It is made with only the very finest components and wire.  We have kept the price down as low as we can possibly make it. It sells for 550.00 dollars and comes on it's own rail with custom name plate and 7 knobs to endlessly  tweak the Stereo tremolo, Phase shifter and Dyno EQ Pre amp. You can read more about it on our website.
We will be more than glad to answer any questions concerning this unit. This piece was a dream of ours to make a couple of years ago and now it is a reality. Also we will very soon have our "Stage Vibe" ready for market which is a Mono tremolo Pre amp Eq based on the original 1960's Fender silver top Suitcase piano. Extremely warm and musical.
I just wanted to also thank you all for a great year last year. We really appreciate all of your business and visiting our new site  www.vintagevibe.com If anyone has any comments on how we can make a better site feel free to email us.