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Well I am really confused-I have only seen the 1/4" jacks and NOBODY else has?
I know the later models had an RCA jack-I just want to know how many out there exist with the 1/4" and when did Rhodes switch over? Does anyone in this group know anyone that worked for Rhodes?


I wish that I could post pictures(I don't know how to load them into the site) BOTH of my Rhodes have the 1/4" jack setup, and no, nobody changed them after market.At least not on the 1973-I know for a fact that nobody changed that one.I am the second owner and the 1st owner is a friend that knows almost nothing about electronics-he didn't change it.It may be possible that someone changed the jack on my 1975 before I acquired it,but that still doesn't explain the other 2 dozen or so that I tuned for other people that had the 1/4" jack. Did these only exist in models delivered in New York State? (I'm kidding,of course)
Also-if the jacks were changed after market,then WHY? That means the wire from the front panel was changed too...Why fix it if it ain't broken?


Could someone tell me how to post pictures from my  my pictures file?I'm not a computer whiz...

Thanks

Steve O

Hi- I have only seen clear tape on pickups-this may have been done by a previous owner or tech because the glue on the clear tape tends to dry out and sometimes the tape falls off.That's the only explanation I can think of..

Steve O

Hi-I need some people to verify that some Rhodes had a 1/4 inch jack on the harp. Every Rhodes I have ever owned (3) had a 1/4" jack there, but now I am being told by 3 different people that they did not come that way from the factory.
These people all claim the there was only an RCA jack and never a 1/4".. :shock:

Every Rhodes I ever tuned had a 1/4 inch jack also-I used a guitar cord to take an output from the harp into the input of a Korg tuner,also a 1/4 inch jack.. My Rhodes service manual AND 1977 parts catalog clearly show a 1/4 inch jack on the harp.Anyone out there that has this type of jack-please let me know.

In the grand scheme of things,it doesn't really matter, but I know these pianos were not modified.I don't like people telling me there was no such thing when I have seen it with my own eyes many times!

Any back up would be appreciated.
thanks

Steve O

No Problem, Hrees


Steve O

Although I use Slide All all the time in acoustic pianos and Wurlitzer eps,but I
would be wary of using it in a Rhodes myself because as we all know, acetone can melt plastics. I agree that teflon powder is better in this case.If you do use Slide All for any other reason, be sure to wear a mask,or at least hold your breath,the fumes can be harmful!

Try the Slide All test on the side of a Rhodes hammer as previously stated  and see if the plastic gets sticky.If it does, don't use it in the Rhodes.

Steve O

I know that the frequency range of an 88 key piano is  27.5 hz for the lowest A to around 4400(?) hz for the highest C-You can figure it out this way-The A above middle C is A440.The A above that is 880,the A above that is 1660,and so on.The reverse is true below middle A220,110,55, down to 27.5 .I have a chart somewhere that tells the frequency of every note (assuming they are in tune) but I don't remember where the chart is.
I think middle C is (about) 275 hz. Calculate the C's the same way up or down.
This will get you close. The high end really isn't as high as you expect it to be.

Hope this helps

Steve O

I agree, it looks like a 1976 date code to me.My Key Bass was made from a junked late 1975 suitcase (ampless) and it sounds like the same design all around.The picture posted is a Fender Rhodes (from the nameplate) I assume yours says "Rhodes,makers of fine keyboard instruments" like my 1975 did.My 75 has all plastic/neoprene hammers.

Steve O

Sorry-I re-read the damper kiss posts,I was confused and thought you meant a different noise.Now I understand what you mean.

Steve O

OK Sorry, I may have been referring to a different damper problem.I was talking about the dampers making a noise as they pull away from the tines (or strings) in a piano.I think you mean when they come back into position to quiet the tines? I guess I read it wrong.
:?
Steve O

To Hrees: I don't really understand what you mean about "taking the higher ground" with my posts.I am a professional Rhodes, Wurlitzer AND acoustic piano tuner-tech and I have 30 years experience.I'm not claiming to be smarter than other people, I am just stating the truth regarding my many years of experience with working on these keyboards.I do this for a living,not as a hobby.

You and I have corresponded regarding Wurlis before.

There was nothing misleading about my post regarding damper kiss.It is a normal (although somewhat annoying) sound that occurs in pianos and electric pianos, and I and several others have tried many things to remove this sound with little or no luck.

If someone took the screws out of this persons Rhodes case,and/or if the case was built from scratch, then yes, this would explain why the white key fronts are rubbing on the front of the case.This is not a COMMON situation with a Rhodes however.

Steve O

Unfortunately,the uneven hammer line is somewhat normal in a Rhodes-there isn't that much you can do about it.The bridle straps pull down the dampers only in a Rhodes.

As far as Hrees talking about the keys rubbing on the front,I do not see how that is possible in a Rhodes unless someone removed the screws that hold everything in place and the piano is flopping around inside the case.It still would be difficult even then.This problem is more common with GRAND pianos,because the action can be moved around a little.

Remember,there are very few adjustments available in the action of a Rhodes.It is not like a conventional piano or even a wurli where you have several screw adjustments to play with. On the hammers that are uneven,you just basically need to be sure that those keys work properly,and adjust the escapment accordingly.(The distance between the hammer tip and the tine after a key is played and the key is still held down)Also be sure the key dip is ok.(About 3/8")

Just in case you are wondering, I am a piano technician with 30 years experience with Rhodes,Wurlis and acoustic pianos.

Steve O

Hi there, When Troubleshooting any problem, start with the EASIEST things to try first then progress to the more difficult things if the problem is not solved yet.

I seriously doubt that the piano needs to be repositioned inside the case.

This is what I would do:

1: Loosen the screws that hold the harp down,then remove the name rail screws.(Keep a cup or something nearbly to put the screws in.

2: Remove the name rail,unplugging the wire from the harp, and then lift the harp.(It should stay up)

3: Take a PENCIL and Number the keys,from left to right, # 1-73,somewhere on the bare wood.

4: Carefully remove the keys,being careful not to disturb the white felt and paper punchings (washers) under the middle of the keys, and the green ones at the fronts of the keys.DO NOT remove or lose these! These are what level the keys and it's a pain to relevel them,especially if you have never done it before.

5: If there is ANY evidence that mice have been inside, wear gloves and a mask before doing more! Wash your hands right away if you see mouse droppings! If there are mouse droppings, you will need to carefully clean them out.This is common, don't worry. about the piano being ruined, just be extra cautious of germs.

6: CAREFULLY!!!! Vacuum out the piano,again be extra extra careful with the felt and paper punchings (washers)

7: Clean the keys with windex and a rag, lightly sand any rough spots in the wood with fine sandpaper.

8: Put some keys back in (especially keys that were sticking) and see if the problem went away. If not, those key bushings may need easing. (Sqeezing of the red felt inside the holes for the front and center pins) Needle nose or duck bill pliers will work for easing-the actual piano tool for this costs about $45.

This should solve your problems.If not tell me what happened and we'll take it from there.


Steve O

Hi,

As a pro piano tech, I have to tell you that damper kiss is a problem in grand pianos as well as electric pianos.This has come up at PTG meetings many times, and NOBODY seems to know how to eliminate it .(I have 30 yrs exp.,and I am one of the youngest members)

I chalk it up to a normal sound that a (partialy) mechanical piano makes.
I once had a customer complain about the "thud" sound of her hammers hitting the strings on an upright piano-there is no way to remove this sound,it's just part of the mechnical beast.If it weren't there, it would sound fake-like a digital piano..

Steve O

No, The pedestal felts  reduce NOISE between the wood and plastic parts.I would bet the keys that are missing the felt make clacking noises.Also, the pedestal bump mod lightens the action-I recommend doing this if you haven't .Later models already have it done so check yours first. Vintage Vibe sells the kit.  
Steve  O

There was a key bass on Ebay last week-did you bid on it?
I have found that it is far cheaper to buy a whole piano-the lowest 32 keys are the same as a key bass.

I TURNED DOWN the chance to buy a new old stock Key bass in a music store for only $125.00 once about 8 years ago because I already own one!!! How stupid I was !!!!!

Steve O

Hi,

This is my first posting, I hope I don't ramble on too much.

I am a professional piano technician and maybe I can shed some light on the hammer clacking noise.I just worked on a piano today (acoustic) that had the same problem.Most of the time, this problem is caused by loose hammer flange screws-the screw that holds the hammer in place. If your Rhodes has the part wood, part plastic hammers, then I assume it is like mine, which has these seperate hammer flanges and screws. If so, (carefully) tighten all 73 or 88 of these screws, being careful not to bend the dampers.You will need a fairly long phillips head screwdriver to do this. (#2 tip)

If your Rhodes is a newer model,then it most lkely has the all plastic hammers that clip together in a plastic flange assembly-this would not have these screws,although the whole assembly is held in place by some screws.

Sometimes, these clacking noises are caused by other things, however this is something fairly easy to look for. When troubleshooting any kind of a problem, always try the easiest things first and eliminate all of the possibilities.

Steve O