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Messages - 4kinga

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That is awesome!
Are you considering selling any?!

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Clavinet E7 No Sound
« on: February 14, 2017, 09:15:26 AM »
Before digging too deep, check the switches again; possibly for continuity this time with a DVM.  If the upper came back with after hitting the switches, I'd check that.  I had one that I chased all around only to find out it was indeed the switch.

Although its not an actual satellite, it was at one time a suitcase cabinet cut down to make it sort of like a satellite.
(No idea why someone would.  But, there you have it!)

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Pairing a Stage with a suitcase?
« on: October 24, 2016, 07:55:15 AM »
I use Hammond PR40 at home with my stage.  :)  Note: this is furniture!

Hmmm.  This is interesting.  I'm going to pull mine apart this week and see if mine are also farther back from the edge.  If so, I'm going to give this a shot and listen if I get similar results.  Since mine is a gradual decrease through-out the upper register, I may have to remove all of the reads and take it down from there.

While some people don't like the Dyno sound, I really like how you can use the pre to really dial in the sound you're looking for;  It can be bright and sparkly but it can also be warm with lots of tone.

You've nice sounds and some nice voicings too!

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Name plate wiring - likely culprit?
« on: September 16, 2016, 08:50:54 AM »
Check the RCA cable for corrosion.
Check the pots with a dvm.  At 10 there should be no resistance.
By-pass the tone control (jumper/desolder) and see if the output changes.

And remember, have fun!  :)

WaitingEagerly awaiting results .........

I almost pulled the trigger on that! (I'm only about 40 minutes south west)
Good luck with it.  Also, the harder tip may give you a dyno-type sound.  I'd say play them for a bit and see what you think/hear.

For Sale / Re: D6 on Ebay
« on: September 17, 2015, 08:42:24 AM »
Same guys has a Hammond A (not a100) with a Trek II pre for 599.  The Trek unit goes for almost that much!

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 200a Fair Pricing?
« on: April 21, 2015, 09:28:10 AM »
The other question would be; where are you located?

2nd what SteveO said.  You won't hear sound unless its getting power.  (I guess unless the speakers are disconnected or the phone plug is shot and open as if there were headphones plugged in when there actually aren't.  )

If you're looking for the

"Rhodes through a Rat" sound, it'll work.  Great as an effect, but not for actual playing.

I've been contemplating a Motion Sound KBR3.  No one around here carries them.  So, testing one out is a purchase and hope situation I guess.  However, it looks like it fits the bill on all accounts.  I've read that it's limited on total headroom.  But, I suppose that's when house sound should kick in.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: What is in your lid?
« on: March 25, 2015, 11:20:52 AM »
Old Crow Reserve, anyone??

My liver just cringed.... 

Buying / Re: Cheap but decent amplifier for the Rhodes
« on: January 16, 2015, 09:01:54 AM »
Different route:

If you have a home stereo, you could use a preamp/audio interface and plug it into an aux in.  I have a Tascam US-1800 ($199 new) that I plug into an old Sansui stereo with some small studio monitors.  The US-1800 can act as stand-alone mixer or audio interface for a DAW via USB.  (There are lots of other audio interfaces to choose from that do the same thing.)

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: ultra quiet 1975 stage piano
« on: January 09, 2015, 10:23:02 AM »
[Unscientific answer]

It sounds like you have a (few?) dead pick-ups at one of the series breaks. 
I'd try tapping each pick-up with a screw driver with it plugged into an amp.  If it doesn't make a pronounced pop, its weak/dead.  Check where it is in the series.  I'd bet its right on a break.

After that,  I'd try lifting a wire off somewhere in the middle and jumper it back to the RCA jack.

Nothing to input other than watching. 
My 200 has the same issue.  Almost like a filter being applied to the output.  (bad component in the amp?).  The above was also checked on mine to no avail. Basically, as you go up in the register, the tone become duller and quieter.  If you play it unplugged, all notes sound as they should (The upper register sounds as loud and crisp as the mid.)

Never moved a 145 around, only a 122, 142, 251, 760 or 822. :)
Never play without my 142, actually.  Wheels, dollies and trucks are your friend.

I play my Rhodes through a early 80's Concert with a single EVM 12s.  I find that often times, it ends up like a laser.  If you're in front of it, it's loud.  But, if you're off the side, it can get lost.  It'll also break up pretty quick if you're playing with a guitarist with a stack and bass player with a 4x10 + 18.

I guess its really about where you intend on playing.

If you're looking at a 4x10 and head, I don't see a reason to state that the 145 is too big or heavy.  The thing I like about a Rhodes through the leslie is when the motors are off, then switching to chorale.  Awesome sound.  I never cared much for a Rhodes through a Leslie on Tremolo.

But, for a Rhodes through a 4x10, I always liked the MusicMan HD130.  Great amps.

Whoa,  a  Wurli on a Rhodes on a Clav and a PolyMoog on a  chopped A100!

Quite a  set-up (would hate to have been the roadie)

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: what is this EP?
« on: January 14, 2014, 12:54:37 PM »
Its a Yamaha CP-20.  Not too desirable.

How much are they asking?  I wouldn't pay much for one.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Can you identify this Wurli?
« on: December 16, 2013, 08:00:07 AM »
Looks like a 140 to me.
145 knobs are on the left mounted on the metal cover, not the cheek block.

For Sale / Cheap Rhodes in NH
« on: September 11, 2013, 12:48:04 PM »
Not mine, but,

$350, no legs, no pedal or lid.

I always wondered about making an aluminum case or at least bottom.

Cleaning leaking caps will do nothing.  The component is already dead.

I too am not an electrical engineer nor qualified service person.  However, leaking caps require replacement.  (And the direction of the cap does matter.)  The doides should be tested with a DVM.  Voltages after the rectifier should then be checked.  The dummy load is just an 8ohm 5 watt resistor.  The transistors can be tested using a DVM.   However.....

 if this is your first project, you may want to take this to someone qualified.

Or, start your reading with bridge rectifiers.  Remember though,  those are mains voltages going into the first leaking power caps.

For Sale / Re: Legs and cross brace
« on: October 18, 2012, 10:38:58 AM »
Actually,  these two goods legs and brace went out today.

All thats left are the two leg "pieces".

For Sale / Legs and cross brace
« on: October 14, 2012, 09:36:00 AM »
Older set of shiny legs
1 front leg complete
1 back leg complete
1 Cross brace

1 front leg. No knurl or top (thread)
1 back leg. No top.

Location: NH
Payment: PayPal

Make me an offer.  Possible trades too.

Thanks for noticing.

when I hit any notes hard at any volume

Sounds like a cracked solder joint.

Visually inspect all solder joints on the board.

With the Rhodes on, use the back of a pen to tap the components.


What he said.
Much more eloquently spoken than I. :-)

It should also be noted here that '3rd prong' ground is earth ground and is NOT supposed to carry current in normal circumstances-- this way ensuring that it IS at earth ground potential at your wall outlets and the chassis of whatever devices are using the 3rd prong.

Would cutting all "grounding" caps to chassis, then installing a standard 3prong (IEC 60320 C14), grounding the chassis to the earth be the proper procedure?

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