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Messages - Wavedude

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Annoying keys!!
« on: April 21, 2011, 12:48:46 AM »
Yeah, I tried remounting them again, they are definitely flush. Grommets could definitely be an issue. One of them fell apart while handling, so that's a problem.

I switched tines and tonebars between a problem key and its neighbor to see if it was indeed a tine problem. The problem tine sounds fine on another key, but the one on the D key is still giving that noise. This must mean it is a hammer problem, but I don't know what else to do, I already tried adjusting escapement, no luck. Its definitely double striking, but I don't know how to get rid of it.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Annoying keys!!
« on: April 20, 2011, 01:38:17 AM »
I've tried everything you guys suggested and looked into it being any of those possibilities. The "ping" is still there. It's even there when I pluck the tine with my finger, so shouldn't that mean its a bad tine? No matter where I have that thing, its going make that awful sound. Double striking was a great possibility, though, that's definitely something I want to fix. Should I just go ahead and order new tines?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Annoying keys!!
« on: March 28, 2011, 12:23:31 PM »
I tried tightening it as hard as a could. Still giving me that annoying pinging. When I take the tine off the tonebar, it still gives me that ping when I hit it, so it must be a bad tine. Thanks a bunch for the help, ill keep all this in mind if I have any other keys like this.

Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: The old legs question
« on: March 25, 2011, 11:20:51 AM »
I had a Z stand and I used to use it for the Rhodes when I first got it, but it was definitely way to flimsy. I don't think I could even mount it to the bottom of the suitcase if I tried. I wouldn't want to use it anyways because, well, lets be honest, most keyboard stands make the Rhodes look like crap. They don't match the style of the piano and even if you try to get a tabletop stand, the dimensions of it are just too small for the Rhodes. It makes it even worse I have an 88 key model. The things a mammoth and my little dinky stands look like toothpicks under it. I'm getting the feeling nothing would be more satisfying than an original bottom cabinet or legs.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Annoying keys!!
« on: March 22, 2011, 12:34:45 AM »
I have had it with these weird keys on my Rhodes. Everyone I know gets annoyed with them including me. Whats wrong? Here's a soundcloud demo, just strait clean. You can hear the annoying pinging of the two D keys. I have even found more keys similar to these two.


Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: The old legs question
« on: March 18, 2011, 07:54:03 PM »
Thats not a bad idea! Thanks, that would seem to be ideal. Much apreciation guys! :)

Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: The old legs question
« on: March 16, 2011, 11:01:12 PM »
Now, at the end of all this discussion, wouldn't it be easier to sell your legs and crossbraces to someone for $200.00, and use the money to buy a sturdy portable keyboard stand?

That's the thing, I have a keyboard stand I specifically bought for this piano. But it's still not sturdy enough, and it also just looks crappy. I'm going to buy the legs hardware.

If you're going to reinforce the bottom then I would suggest a full piece of 3/4 "
about 1" shy of all edges. If you just block the area where the mounting plates
go the 1/2" suitcase bottom can still warp around the block.

A piece of wood that large would make it even more heavier. But I can see what you mean about the wood warping.

If you have the stage model legs I really think the best alternate is to create a
platform to attach the legs to.

But then the legs might interfere with the piano internally like sean said. It seems like a good idea, but I would still need the reinforcement wood.

Keep in mind that I do not own the legs yet. I'm looking for the best deals for them online for this project. Now if anyone believes its cheaper to get an original bottom speaker cabinet instead, please speak up, because I cant seem to find one for less than I paid for the actual piano itself.

Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: The old legs question
« on: March 16, 2011, 10:26:35 AM »
Actually, the blocks would not go inside the rhodes, but outside on the bottom. They would probably be 1/2 inch plywood pieces either apoxied or screwed into the bottom.

Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / The old legs question
« on: March 15, 2011, 11:25:45 PM »
My friend suggested that I put thick enough blocks of wood where the leg flanges would go on my suitcase. Does this seem like a good idea? If so, how thick would the blocks need to be?

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Merry Christmas!
« on: December 25, 2010, 01:00:42 AM »
To celebrate, I recorded this famous Christmas carol. Just me and my Rhodes. Thanks for all you guys do ep-forums :)

Ok, before or after the the transformer?

...I'm sounding like such an airhead right now, haha. Sorry, I've never really known to much about fuses, and the tutorials online don't give any info about them.

Their 1000uf and 100uf eCaps and two .1 ceramic caps.

I didn't get a fuse, I'll make sure to get one. Mine is turning out a lot like yours. Its just like the one in the schematic sean posted. Except Im using a 33 ohm resistor in place of the 10k pot.
I'm also waiting on the transformer to come in of course.

Where should I put the fuse? It wasn't on the schematic.

They were out of the 34V at mouser, so I just went with the 36V Rob suggested. Its not much of a difference, and it might help to have that extra current. It's being processed and shipped as we speak :)

Until it gets here, I have all the parts for the rest of the DC power supply circuit. I hope everything works well.

Oh ok, I must have read it wrong. It looked like the same specs as the one used in the tutorial.

If I can get a transformer cheaper on mouser, that would be a ton better. That one you suggested seems good. It really is hard to find things on there though. I was searching for something like that and it kept giving me no matches.

Thanks a bunch, that's been the most help so far.

Will this transformer be ok? It comes close to the specs:

I don't know how I missed that power supply tutorial in my searches. Thanks so much for bringing it up.

EDIT: After thinking a bit, that pot they want you to use for controlling the voltage output seems a little unnecessary. Can I leave that out somehow?

3 amps? What is it powering? My Twin Reverb has a 2 amp fuse I think.

It's powering the preamp itself. It's an 80 watt machine, needing 25 volts of power. So do the math (I=W/E), the current calculates to 3.2 amperes.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Replacing the 4 pin connector
« on: December 15, 2010, 08:50:18 PM »
24v should be fine as long as it has enough current ( amps) and the polarity is correct.

I.e. Fresh batteries have higher current than weak batteries, but the voltage is about the same.....

Which it doesn't. See my latest post for details. And thanks.


You'll also need to arrange an input voltage that's over 27V. You will need a heatsink too.

But where am I going to find a transformer that goes that high? The highest I've found is 25.2.

Ugh, this is a pain. That over-priced vintage vibe power supply is laughing in my face right now.

Ok, new update: I replaced some capacitors that were definitely bad. All the Red with yellow and black striped ones were falling apart in my hands. So the caps should be better now.
But the power input is still wrong. I took back that 30V transformer I got, and tried out the 24V one again, and of course it was the same problem, no audio output.

I think its time to take the power situation into my own hands. I'm building my own voltage regulator. According to the specs I've gotten so far, I need 25 volts with 3.2 amps of current draw. The closest thing I've seen for sale is 25.2V 2.0A. I don't know if that's going to be enough amps, but it doesn't seem like I have any other choices. Is this ok?

What should the transistors be reading? I've tried metering them and they all read something, but what should be the ideal reading?

I also don't have a capacitor reader on my meter either, so how can I check the caps?

I'm still learning how to read this thing, I just got it, lol. Best thing I've gotten for circuitry to date.


I think your power supply is a major part (if not the only part) of the problem.

Oh crap, and I just got a bigger power supply too. I was told its not enough current, and I needed something with more amps, so I got a 30V DC with 1000mA, lol...bad idea?

Its still not working either :p

The problem is the power adapter. Its not enough current. Its only 100 mA when it needs to be like a whole amp or so. I'm gonna try to find a power adapter that will provide that higher current.

Thanks for putting up with me everyone, you've been great help :)

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Notes not working
« on: December 14, 2010, 11:34:15 AM »
If you can, check the pickups with a multimeter. Vintage Vibe has a youtube video for that. Those pickups with low volume are most likely bad, but take them out and check them just to be sure.

The one that is making weird oscillations is probably a wack tine. It could be uneven on the tip, so take it out and check to see if the end of it is nice and flat, if its not, file it down.

Also try adjusting the pickups closer or further away from the tines to get better sound results. Hope that helps, Rhodes are a pain for maintenance arent they? ;)

The draw reads to be 193 mA going into the preamp, that sounds ok, right? I downloaded the schematics and they don't tell me how much current it needs. I did find out that the voltage regulator took in 35V and condensed it to 25 though, but I'm not sure if that's what I'm needing, since I'm not powering a speaker cabinet or other auxiliary amp.

By the looks of all the info we have so far, it seems like the power supply is fine. Moving onto the components, All transistors are fine. I'm not sure if I'm checking the caps right with my multimeter.

Oh thanks for the links for the schematics. It was bothering the heck out of me that they are all broken.

Ok, so, I know the problem isn't in the audio. It has to be the power supply, or bad components on the board.

Before I check the components, I just now realized I forgot about specifying the mA rating on the power supply. It's 24V DC 100mA output. I don't know if that's enough or not, I cant find the specs on what the original rated output on the power supply is. Please let me know if its not.
If it's fine, then I'll just have to move on to the components.
I checked all transistors, The vibrato and eq ones are fine. The ones in the amp section are questionable. What should I expect the values to be reading? If none of the transistors are bad, then that's good, it would just be a bad cap or something. But I would think its highly unlikely to be something other than one of those old transistors.

I'll keep checking them, but let me know if I'm getting the right current. I appreciate all your help, this is getting so stressful by myself, haha  ;)

Ok, its gotta be something in the preamp. There's some bad components or something, because when I use my test leads to get audio along some of the circuit path, some components work and other aren't. Ive followed the path of the audio from the Rhodes and so far I've come across some transistors that might be bad, or some capacitors that might be bad as well. I need a schematic of the circuit so I know what the values are supposed to be when I check them, but I cant seem to find it yet. If anyone knows where I can find one, please help.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: weird D key harmonic ping?
« on: December 12, 2010, 03:02:59 PM »
you're not missing hammer tips on those keys are you?

No I'm not, their all there.

The D key an octave lower is doing the same thing. I'm convinced there's something about that harmonic note that creates this resonance. Thanks for your help, sorry I forgot about this post. It dates way back before the site got shut down.

oh thats great. ill keep that in mind next time :)

yes, they are. i dont know where else they would go seeing how theres only one ground pin. im pretty sure i have them connected right, they both go to the preamps dual outputs.

EDIT: I just tried the output right from the preamp board itself and its doing the same thing, so its not the cable or the audio jacks on the power supply unit. I have no idea whats wrong, its giving some sort of output, but its so low and distorted. I hope its not a bad amp.

Ok, I messured the voltage going into the preamp. Its only 23 volts...darn.

What do I need to do to get it the 25 volts it needs? Does this mean I would need a 26V power supply or something?

No I haven't. I'm using a 24V DC power supply. Its enough to turn it on at least.
The layout is very simple. the +V goes right to the 25V pin, and the ground goes to the ground pin, while the audio outputs go to the other two pins. There's nothing in between them. Does there need to be?

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