Messages

I do not recommend to replace the whole amp.

If it's basically working, it's worth to rework it... so replace the electrolytics, replace the preamp transistors with low-noise-type (MPSA18 f.e.) and even more important replace the resistors. After that it should be a new game. See this video of us:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS-K653kJ7Y

Significant! Not related to bark but also important: Shield the AC and put it away from the audio signal!

Moin,

das klingt nach defekten Pickups. Mark IIs sind dafür relativ anfällig.
Da hilft nur der Austausch der entsprechenden Pickups / Tonabnehmer, da ich denke, dass du nicht in der Lage bist, die Pickups neu zu wickeln.

Wenn du dir den Austausch zutraust, bekommst du die Tonabnehmer bei EP Service in Holland.

Du kannst die Pickups testen indem du mitnehmen Schraubenzieher vorne gegen die Spitzen klopfst. Kommt aus dem Verstärker ein lautes Pochen, ist der Tonabnehmer in Ordnung. Ist es leise oder nichts zu hören ist er defekt.

Ansonsten kannst du natürlich sowohl mich von Tines & Reeds als auch meinen Kollegen Jens Lüpke von Taste und Technik um Hilfe bitten. Wir helfen gerne. :-)

When we are talking about the grommets, I know that most of my colleagues insist to replace the grommets no matter what.

I made the experience that often it really works well and is a huge improvement. It equalizes sustain and tone.

But on some instruments the whole sound gets dull and it looses sustain completely. With that said: With a trained ear you can decide on a per-note-base if the grommets (and which one) need to be replaced. It's always good to have grommets in stock. So I highly recommend getting some of those.

By the way: I always keep the old grommets if they are not damaged. Sometimes I change old grommets with other old grommets if new grommets don't get me where I want to get to. Also you can remove the old grommet, take some silicone spray and roll / squeeze the grommet between your fingers. This helps to "refresh" the grommet.

Yes! You are right. This is eliminated in the schematic I use as "template". It uses another kind of vactrols.

First, are all the components available?  You may have noticed that this circuit uses 2 devices in which one LED shines simultaneously on 2 light-dependent resistors.  This is a clever design and I understand what the designer is doing, but I don't believe this component is available anywhere.  If it is, I'd like to know who sells them.

This is not a problem. Vactrols are not that hard to find.

Second, it's worth investigating if there is an opportunity to substitute modern parts that perform better that some of the parts used back then.  One can pretty much guarantee that this is the case.

What "other parts" do you mean? Of course I'd not look for 40years old capacitors ;-) In principle the preamp is a really easy thing... just a few caps, resistors and opamps. The only thing, that also answers your last point, is, to try out other opamps. In this schematic the NE5534 is used. This is still available and still a workhorse. Anyway... now there are better op-amps available f.e. from TI OPA134, OPA604, etc. As the pinout is the same, I'd test that as soon as the preamp works with the standard NE5534.

And as far as I know the frequencies are set with some caps- and resistor-networks. So this can also be easily exchanged as soon as the preamp works.

My goal with this thread was to go sure, that I didn't overlook something in my schematic in comparison to the original one. As soon as I have the first preamp assembled and it's working, I'm open for improvements! 

I build this little speaker during the weekend... it's based on the Thiele TL806 design featuring an Eminence Delta Pro 12A speaker. It sounds absolutely incredible! I do build a second one at the moment to have real-stereo ;-) For now it's just a passiv box but I want to include an amp soon.

This is the pot-preamp. I linked to the schematic in my first post.

A few years ago I made a comparison between a real rhodes and some plugins. Check it out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKtVSJsem_I

Hey folks,

since I am building a custom satellite system for the pianos in my workshop, I am also interested in recreate the suitcase preamp. So I started to digitize the preamp of the Mark II suitcase. Mark II you ask? I talked to another rhodes-tech who invented a preamp by himself and he told me that the Mark II is technically the best preamp especially when it comes to the vibrato-section.

So I spent yesterday and today putting the layout into eagle which I attached to the post. The picture has a high resolution so you better download it instead of open it in your browser.

I also attached the pcb layout. The potentiometer will be connected externally.

I've got a few questions regarding the original layout which you can find here:
http://www.fenderrhodes.com/pdf/late-mark2-suitcase.pdf

1.) R14 and R26 are connected to voltage. But it's not mentioned, if it's + or -.
2.) Does anybody know how much current which voltage goes through the LEDs (power & vibrato)?
3.) There is no blocking-cap on U1. I think it's better to add one?
4.) C19 says 100uF while C20 says 100pF. Do you think that's a mistake and it both needs to be 100uF? This would make sense to me.

Any other suggestions are very appreciated! As soon as I verified the layout and prooved it's working, I'll put the layout-files online so you could etch them by yourself.

(Attachment didn't work... so I uploaded to dropbox).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gzzuzlacgkpa32p/SuitcasePreamp.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vee7flhw52twueb/SuitcasePreampPCB.png?dl=0

Thanks,
Chris

Hey people,

last year I made a video about rhodes vs. plugins which I posted here too. Now I made another one which covers the following plugins:

XLN Audio - Addictive Keys Mark One
UVI - Tines Anthology
RedTape - EightyEight
AAS - Lounge Lizard EP-4
Precisionsound - Dusty Electric
Purgatory Creek - Mark V
Premier Sound Factory - Mark I Stage Premier

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DBWhPmogDg

Tune in and post your comments! Thanks!


Best,
Chris

Too much reverb?
All plugins use the same amount of FX

Thanks for the nice feedback.

It's really interesting... the opinions on "what sounds best" really differ a lot!

Hey guys,

I took the last days to create a video, that compares a real Fender Rhodes with the most common plugins and a nord.
Please tune in and gimme a comment on what you think about the plugins and the rhodes sound. You can find soundcloud files under the video...

Thank you and enjoy it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKtVSJsem_I

Hey!

I'm looking for a whole bunch of pickups 3". I need at least 40 pcs.

I'm located in Germany.

Thanks,
Chris

Hey there,

there are three latches missing on a Mark V I restaurate.
Is there any replacement?

Thanks,
Chris

Hey,

another possibility is, transfer the layout from jpeg to eagle and create a new (and of course smaler) PCB.

What happens if you use the "Accessory 1"-Output to connect the piano the amp or bassamp?

Ah, thanks. I will try that!

I just tried a combination of seven parts naptha and one part babyoil. The result is okay, but not really perfect. Some "hammers" are not going in the full way back into their position. I will try a bit more oil....otherwise I have to order Protek CLP here in Germany, because the piano has to be ready next week. Than I will do another order in USA :-)

Thanks!

Thats a pretty nice idea!

So, if someone has such pictures, I would be thankful too!

Hey,

thanks for the hint.
I searched for Renuzig but I just found air freshener

Last week I was in a hardware store here in Germany and I did not found any kind of naptha or liquid silicone. Maybe there are other names for it?! I just found a solution, to clean a surface from silicone, but thats not, what I was looking for.

Any tipps, what I have to look for?

Why DHL/UPS/FEDEX would be a problem with customs clearance?

I think too, that the package would be too big for USPS. What you can try is ipsparcel.com

Hey,

here you can get the tolex:
http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p3804_Tolex-Fender-Seafoam-Green.html

For the bottom you will need three parts. The left and right side and then the middle.

For the lid you need:
1x compartment
1x left side
1x right side
1x middle
1x for the big surface inside of the lid
1x door

You have to glue the tolex in the right order. It's like I listed it above.

Hey people,

I think the topic says it.

Thanks,
Chris

Hey out there,

I've the chance to get a Rhodes 1967. I have no pictures yet but I think that should be a sparkle top rhodes. The piano is according to the seller, in best condition. It has never been on the road and includes the complete hardware.

I never saw such a piano on ebay or so. So I have no idea, of what is that worth.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Chris

Thanks for your help.

Wow, Protek CLP is pretty expensive. 100ml cost around 19€. Maybe it's cheaper to use a mix of naptha and mineral oil.

Hey people,

I just want to know, what do you use for lubricating the action of a wurlitzer 200 / 200A / 206, etc.
Here in Germany is something that is called WD40. Don't know, if you ever heard about it. It is used to lubricate nearly everything. But I'm not sure, if it's the right lube for an action.

Thanks,
Chris

Forget about that. I found the solution in this thread:
http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=1339.0

Hey people,

Just a short question: I have a suitcasepreamp. In the preamp, there is a pin called E12. I need to know, where it leads to. In the schematic (http://www.fenderrhodes.org/ch11/fig11-1.jpg) its not identifiable, if E15 or E12 leads to pin 2 on the XLR. Maybe both?

Thanks in advance!

Chris

Ha! Probably you are right!

Looks nice, but is that tough enough for the road?

getting started...

here are a few (bad) pictures. I will finish the piano hopefully in the weekend.

Hey,

yes, I think you are right. The picture are titled with "solid mahagoni". It seems, that he rebuild the case with mahagoni. Thats awesome!
But I think you can get a really close design if you take veneer and color it.

Yes, be careful with that.
I think, its not a good idea to use wood glue in this case, like VV or some other guys do. But the idea is quite good. Please keep us up2date.

But how did he do this?!

I will soon "upholster" another rhodes, Mark II 1981 88 with Suitcasepreamp. I will use felt. Nearly like the guy, who upholster his rhodes with ozite, you can google it

Hey folks,

the last weekend I tolexed a rhodes for a customer. Look at the pictures.
It's not real Tweed. It's just Tweed-Vinyl but it looks cool I think. Also it has new hardware, new hammertips and new damperfelts.

Sad, that mojotone has not the right latches  and hinges....

Hey,

nice job!
Don't we wanna create a thread with pictures of pianos reconditiones by ourselfs? I think, that would be interesting!

Thanks for the nice pictures! Your suitcases look great!

Thanks for the nice hint.

Mojotone does offer international shipping so I will give it a try!

I just bought the hardware sets of vintagevibe and of course replaced the corners. I've got some pianos in stock, which have to be serviced and reconditioned and I will replace those corners in any case. New hardware gives the piano a completely new and shiny look!

But in the end it's the decision of the customer, if he wants new hardware or not.

Hey Cormac,

well, I service and recondition rhodes as well and Jens and Tom are colleagues so to say
I asked them, but the don't have any suggestions.

Maybe you want to take a look at my page?! Than just visit:

www.rhodesserviceberlin.de

Thanks and also tschüss!

Hey people,

could it be, that all the hardware of a rhodes piano fits with the hardware of penn elcom?!

Please compare the corners of VV (http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-419-piano-corners.aspx) with the one of penn elcom 1086N (http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1104350&GC=135&GD=Elcom-Cabinet-Corners). They look like they are the same?!

Here is another one:
Vintage Vibe Hinges: http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-427-hinges.aspx
Penn Elcom Hinges: http://www.penn-elcom.com/Default.asp?MC=1108020&GC=62&GD=Hinges

I'm located in Germany and here nobody is able to get those parts, because it's US sale only. Maybe one of you could try these things out and give a short feedback?!

Thanks,
Chris

Hey,

thanks for the answer.
I checked out, shimming the harp on the left. But that raises the problem. So, I thought, I have to get the harp closer to the hammers. I doublechecked if the harpsupportscrews and the harpscrews are really tightend and that was the problem. They were not. Now everything is fine.

Thanks anyway!


Chris

Hey people,

I now checked everything and I can't get a solution of what is going wrong here.
I've got some notes, which if I strike them hard, are not barking. They get even quiter, then striking the key less hard. And another thing is strange too:
If I strike the key with maybe 20% power, than its smooth and soft, like it should be. If I strike the key with maybe 60%, than it barks and sounds like I hit the key with 100%. And if I do so, than the problem described above happens.....

The piano has new damperfelts and new hammertips. The damperfelts do not touch the tine, even if I strike the key hard. So, that is not the problem.
I also checked the keyleveling. That seems also okay. I checked the connection between tine and tonebar, I loosened the screw and tightened the screw. I checked the grommets, they are fine.

Would you please help me? I don't know, what to do next.

Thanks,
Chris

Hey people,

I'm still restorating another Rhodes, Mark I 1977, and I'm tired to cut my keycaps, I got from vintagevibe, in length, width and also the length of the head.
So, I'm looking for a full set of keys, fitting this Rhodes.

If anyone have a set of them, than please send me a PM or post in this thread!

Thanks,
Chris

Hey people,

I have to retolex a Fender Rhodes, Mark II 73.
Do you have any hints about that? Do you cut the tolex in length and width before glueing it on the rhodes? Do you use kinde of "template" for precutting the parts? Or do I get the dimensions of the different tolex-parts in the internet?

Thanks,
Chris

Hey,

yes, the colour would propably match.

Please send me a PM with further informations about the price. I need maybe two octaves...
If you are close to liverpool, I can pick them up, because I'm there for a gig in the cavern club.

Thanks,
Chris

Hey people,

if I need a new set of keycaps (white), where can I get those? Vintage Vibe aren't selling them any more.
The set I have now isn't fitting very well. I have to cut them on every size to fit them on a key. And thats work-intensive.

So, I'm looking for some, which fit more the keys

Thanks,
Chris

Of course I'm interested. I will send you a PM.

Thanks!