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Messages - jim

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the top of he keys not touching the namerail felt is probably something simple rather than the balance rail felts being wrong.

i think..the front of the keys are too the back end of the keys must be too high (the pedestal end under the hammers)

my guess is that your hammer rail isn't screwed down. that's my guestimate.
sometimes these become loose, and so all the hammers lean back a little, and the key pedestals therefor can raise up under them at the back, then the keyfronts are lower than usual.

but i could be totally wrong.

do you know how to get into this section of the piano? it's a bit of taking apart.

have you investigated "strike line" on the forum? this may help a little for the dynamic range.

and for the Australians:
Helmar H400 Silicone Spray.
comes in a green can.

i also recommend putting plain stickytape on the top of yr wood key pedestals. this is a much smoother surface for the felt to slide on.

this is sometimes called a "modification"

once my step dad found a rhodes in my brothers' pocket, and my brother said it was my rhodes, man i was in so much trouble!

also you've got to think about the sustain mechanism, which may be messed up by moving the piano.

if the case is at fault, work on the case.

Buying / Searching for a Fender Rhodes Mark I from 1974 or earlier
« on: July 02, 2008, 02:50:54 AM »
i just hate the early action bashing. and i don't like later action. so....thats my...thing i guess. :D

and i guess some people hate having to bash their early action! :lol:  gosh i'm a funny bastard.

Buying / Searching for a Fender Rhodes Mark I from 1974 or earlier
« on: July 01, 2008, 07:08:35 PM »
they are not "better" playing wise, they are different.

NO DON'T DRILL HOLES!!! what are you doing????

i'm sure the problem can be solved another way. this piano wasn't put together with keys touching the case, why would they do that? you'll regret re drilling when you find out the proper solution.

For Sale / What's the best way to ship a Rhodes?
« on: June 30, 2008, 08:33:34 PM »
shockingly quickly. i think within a week.. and yes safely too.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Clavia Nord Discussion
« on: June 27, 2008, 07:06:13 PM »
i had an electro2 for a while and never did one gig where i got my groove on. it felt good to sell it and leave all that digital behind.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Nord/RHODES Help
« on: June 27, 2008, 07:03:48 PM »
you need a rhodes if you want rhodes action.

For Sale / Now this is museum quality
« on: June 26, 2008, 02:46:20 AM »
oh man, that is hot.

Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / guitar pedal & Rhodes Mark II
« on: June 25, 2008, 06:47:54 PM »
it will have an accessory in and out labeled 1. and 2. just send a lead out of 1. to the in of your guitar pedal, and out the pedal into 2. on the piano.

or if it's a stereo pedal, there are jacks on the side. you can look in the service section of the super site to find info on that i think.

Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Strange looking namerail on Ebay
« on: June 25, 2008, 06:43:23 PM »
i thought all namerails (not early ones) had suitcase control holes, so this hole on a suitcase was for the lead to the amp. already waiting behind the faceplate.

should be two others on its left?

oh no man just normal see through sticky tape that you would wrap a present up with.
there is ALWAYS someone trying to make money off of you in this keyboard world by selling you something normal with a fancy name. most of the time the best way to achieve something is just to have a think about it logically, and it will probably turn out to be a pretty cheap solution.

just normal sticky tape works fantastically. it has all the skills required..sticky on one side, smooth on the other.

hammer tips are just rubber,

grommets are just rubber,

action felt is just action felt, (also used in pianos)

action mod bumps are anything that can be formed into a bump!

damper felt is just damper felt (also used in pianos)

ghostbusters, classic.

For Sale / 1974 Rhodes Stage
« on: June 24, 2008, 12:18:46 AM »
do i need a photo of me playing now?

discovered? more like the devine wisdom of jim! :wink:

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Replacing damper felts
« on: June 23, 2008, 06:40:32 AM »
expect to have to set up your dampers again...have fun! :D

perhaps one of your speakers has gone awry? try unscrewing the front grille cloth and removing it to see that the speakers are connected nice, and then perhaps try a switcheroo of the channels, to see if the problem moves. you can switch the channels around by swapping the jacks in the cabinet. you should find them pretty easy.

do you have a myspace?

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Best Action?
« on: June 19, 2008, 09:44:52 PM »
i hate that kind of action  :lol:

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Hammond L-102
« on: June 18, 2008, 03:08:03 AM »
ah the Americans, such a wasteful society. : :D

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / 1975 & the hybrids
« on: June 17, 2008, 05:33:11 PM »
<<<<<<the red rhodes, 1975, not a fender.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Best Action?
« on: June 17, 2008, 02:02:47 AM »
yes mk 2 or late mk one ( from 1978 on i think?)

the throw distance can be different depending on how the particular rhodes is set up.

there are also earlier mk1's that have been modified to later standards for faster action. or you can perform the mod pretty easily yourself.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / full size keys?
« on: June 17, 2008, 01:59:39 AM »
yes standard ones will fit. but make sure the rhodes is not a plastic key model.

also, some models from 72, 73 i think don't have full wood keys.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / sparkle top restoration
« on: June 16, 2008, 10:44:01 PM »
i would suss out some piano repair sites for the sanding of the hammers, or ask pianotuner steveo who would totally know the method.

i know there is a trick where you rule a line from the back of the hammer to the center of the front, and sand based on this line as the strike point. but yeah it's a definite method that you should suss out.

also, if you're ever buying an acoustic piano, if you see pencil lines on the side of the hammers, you know it's been played more than the hammer grooves indicate!

another thing could be that the springs are not encircling the bottom of the new grommet entirely? the spring should be up against the tonebar, with the bottom section of the grommet inside.

i've found that making this happen can fix sustain...sometimes...

also, have you tried moving the harp back and forward while you play one of these tines? it's possible in some way that the strike line may be off on those lower tines, especially if you've changed hammer tips or perhaps a shim under the harp or even hammer felt etc etc etc. the way you describe the tine vibrating wrong sounds like strike line to me.

i apoligise if this has been gone through. i'm lazy reader today.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Stop...Hammertime
« on: June 16, 2008, 10:25:08 PM »
does mike malone work for vintage vibe?  :wink:

also, the mkV has green and red springs i believe!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / felt hammer tips
« on: June 16, 2008, 09:04:53 PM »
i always thought that felt was produced in an immense amount of ways, including denser...but, i don't know.

pianotuner steveo??? hello?

i wonder if i can get some piano hammer felt and do my own.

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