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Messages - jim

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oh HAI!
yeah that's me.

 Are you getting output from the pickups at all? what happens when you hit them with a screwdriver?  you should get a loud bang.

PM me if you'd like me to look at it in human form.

and thanks steveo :D

swap the namerails?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Leg braces
« on: April 24, 2010, 09:42:30 PM »
are you tightening the leg around it?

the bottom section of the leg should screw in and out.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Buzzing damper straps
« on: April 17, 2010, 10:13:00 PM »
haha yeah totally! the harp off harp on harp off thing gets real tiresome.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Buzzing damper straps
« on: April 17, 2010, 07:55:49 AM »
when you say damper straps are you reffering to the metal arms or the cloth straps (the bridal straps)?

by increasing the tension you are just increasing the pressure that the damper puts on the tine and how quickly it gets back to the tine.

bending the damper between the mounting screw and the bridal strap shouldn't change the distance between the damper and the tine when the key is depressed, so it shouldn't effect your sustain.

if you bend the damper arm on the keyboard side of the bridal strap, this will effect sustain.

a lot of pianos from the early 70's will have damper arms that have gradually bent downward over time (just from the bridal straps pulling on them and the sustain mechanism pushing them down) and have lost their spring back skillz because of this.
so to bend it straight is to bring it back to its original state.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Buzzing damper straps
« on: April 16, 2010, 11:01:15 PM »
I agree with steveo about the tension not being enough.

if you unscrew a damper arm and look at it from the side it should look flat from the screw hole to the back of the bridal strap tab,  not bent down.
if it is bent downward you can straighten it or even bend it upward a little and this will give the damper a lot more stopping power, which is useful for those longer tines at the bottom.

I'm sure i'll have a stadium show near you one day soon  :wink:

Can Return the favour.

I'm doing a couple of gigs in Perth on May 22-23 and am trying to avoid putting a wurly or rhodes on a plane.

If there's anyone in Perth with a wurly or rhodes (or even a pianet) who would like to have the same to use in Melbourne at some stage, please let me know.

I repair Rhodes for a living here in Melbs so your keyboard would be treated very nicely, and if you want may even be returned sounding a little better.

thanks for reading!

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Problem with tuning
« on: April 15, 2010, 09:12:38 PM »
Steveo do you mean tuning spring related?
what were the problems?

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Problem with tuning
« on: April 12, 2010, 06:56:58 AM »
yeah i vote for a nearly dead tine.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / New cause for sluggish keys
« on: April 08, 2010, 06:20:18 AM »
I found the skeletons of my rock stardom dreams in the bottom of a rhodes i was fixing once.

this is interesting as i have memories of  mk5 with the same problem, screws not holding the comb down.

wow and i thought i was the only one ever to own a rhodes this rusty!

yes the harp rails are part of the earth.

Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / More dynamics for a Mark II
« on: March 25, 2010, 11:48:57 PM »
it's possible that the position of your hammers on your key pedestals is not quite right.

this can make an enormous difference to the dynamics of a piano,

also the height of the hammer rail. (this changes how far the hammers swing=more punch)

earlier pianos have a much longer swing, you can even see it by how close the front of the hammers sit above the keybed. on a mk5 it's way close also.

it's a big job though but worth investigating.

From steve's corner, action inspection in the technotes section:

"The wooden rail (late 60's, early 70's) was two pieces screwed together as one. The rail height varied due to the assemblers installing various shims between the action rail and the keybed. The higher the rail, the lower the hammer sits off the pedestal and the longer the hammer has to swing to strike the tine. With the key pressed down and the hammer in the up (lock) position, the back "knife" edge of the hammer cam curve should be about 1/16th of an inch from the back of the key pedestal. This setting is normal for all ages of pianos and more critical on any piano where the pedestal has a bump or marcel curve. If the hammer-to-pedestal setting is off, it causes the action to feel not as responsive. "

I have successfully turned a pretty lame mk2 into a dreamboat by moving the hammer rail (and balance rail)
like it's amazing , i shocked myself.

sean, right right!

yeah i think that swapping out action parts just creates a world of trouble and should be avoided at all costs.

For Sale / FS top to a silvertop 73 fender rhodes
« on: March 25, 2010, 02:48:05 AM »
i'm done with paypal too.

oh and sean there is a difference in length between the suitcase and stage damper push rod.

the suitcase pretty much aligns flat to the floor of the piano, while the stage is higher so the rod from the pedal can reach up into it and be guided by the piano base a little.

what about doing a bump mod on the suitcase rhodes?
then you'd have the action you wanted on both pianos, and probably with the same amount of effort as swapping all the bits.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / harp screw size
« on: March 18, 2010, 07:18:28 PM »
73 and 76 will have different screws though,
1973 will be a wood screw

Buying / NYC music stores
« on: March 02, 2010, 10:32:00 AM »
Hi all,
sorry to be SLIGHTLY not on the centre of topic,

but, I'm in NYC right now (holiday from aus) and am keen to check out some music stores and oggle some nice gear,
does anyone have any suggestions for good vintage/second hand music stores in or around NYC?


Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Removing the keybed for a Mark V
« on: October 14, 2009, 07:47:09 PM »
if my memory serves me correctly,
you put  a flat-head screwdriver up inside those ?

i have memories of the sides sorta not wanting to fit out of the case too, you may have to manipulate it a little.

and also the screws that come into the keyboard from the sides.

and the screws going into the handles! i think they also need to be removed.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Ground wire questions
« on: October 13, 2009, 09:29:08 PM »
i think he means the earlier model rhodes,

this earth wire runs from the rca to the sustain rail holding in screw.

there are two of them on the left holding the metal dowel that holds the sustain rail.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / mark 1a key pedestal
« on: October 08, 2009, 09:24:59 AM »
are we talkin with the slope on the key side?

For Sale / WTB Rhodes 54 TOP
« on: October 07, 2009, 03:29:10 AM »
LOLZ bjammers.

Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / rhodes suitcase 1974 bad output
« on: October 07, 2009, 03:25:52 AM »
and be careful when you pull the cloth panel off, the speakers are attached to the panel and also wired to the amp.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Bad experiences with Mark II 54???
« on: October 02, 2009, 11:34:28 PM »
my bad experience with 54's is that the pickups seem to fail often.
and when one goes, the way they are wired, you loose every note.

that's just my bad experience though,

I've had bad experiences picking up an 88!!!!

For Sale / What to Consider When Moving a Piano................!!
« on: October 02, 2009, 11:30:49 PM »
haha Rob,  I lolled.

For Sale / What to Consider When Moving a Piano................!!
« on: September 30, 2009, 04:30:14 AM »
Hi Tom,
great you found the forum!
glad we could help out.

For Sale / Guitar Lessons - The Pros and Cons
« on: September 30, 2009, 04:28:47 AM »
and this way, you can spend your money on something and not actually ever have to practice. and you get to watch tv!!

then when yr done you can put the dvd with your ab blaster and ab dooer and ab blower.

For Sale / How to Learn Easy Piano...........!!!
« on: September 30, 2009, 04:25:50 AM »
or, listen to music and TRY to play it.

and when you sound crap, don't give up.

that's my lesson.  :lol:

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