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Messages - jim

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91
For Sale / Shipping a Fender Rhodes Overseas..
« on: September 30, 2009, 04:23:22 AM »
wow lot's of NZ's are coming over here!
i work in a rehearsal studio and it's like every second band is from NZ now.

what's going wrong over there?

are you coming to melbourne?

sorry i have no help for your actual question at all. :)

92
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Tine length, chart question
« on: September 30, 2009, 04:19:31 AM »
yes i have spent days doing this exact thing to many a rhodes.
it is worth it in the long run though.

i guess that a grand piano sounds better because the strings are so long, so with that in mind you'd think that the longer tines would be the way to go.
but, i dunno, a couple of millimeters aint much difference hey.

another little trick when a tine is not the right length and you can't afford a new tine, is to move the hammer tip position on the hammer. this is great when the strike line is good except for one or two notes.

a weird thing actually, i think it's a d flat a couple below middle c , always seems to be wrong....i wonder if the chart is wrong?
has anyone come across this?

oh also the dyno my piano rhodes i had once had slightly shorter tines across the board.

93
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / restoration
« on: September 28, 2009, 08:03:05 PM »
i say number one strike line.

that's my vote.

94
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Tine length, chart question
« on: September 28, 2009, 08:01:04 PM »
yes the tine length is very important.
when the lengths are out the strike line wont be right across the harp, and the piano will basically just sound bad.
the chart i use is 6 inches at 2-9, one inch at 67-74.

i have found though that if ALL the tines are a little long or short, you should be ok when your strike line is correct.

tine length is an often ignored factor and really i think probably with strike line the most important tone factor of all.

when these things are bad, it's like trying to play cricket with the bat upside down!


(note australian/english sports reference)

95
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / action problem
« on: September 23, 2009, 08:51:23 PM »
are your hammers aligned on the key pedestals?

it MUST be something simple,
maybe you should pull it apart and put it back together again? might just fix it.

are the keys in in the right order?

96
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / What goes around....
« on: September 23, 2009, 08:47:23 PM »
awesome.

97
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / epiphone valve junior
« on: September 22, 2009, 12:10:49 AM »
yeah and it would always be an overdriven sound.

98
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / 1978 mk1 stage sound
« on: September 12, 2009, 09:35:39 AM »
i've found that increasing the hammer swing can get you closer to the older sound, cuz them old pianos had more distance for the hammer to travel it gives you more power to really lay into the tine.
this is done by shimming under the harp supports and hammer rail.
but then you gotta fix yr dampers tho.

 and strike line.
strike line is the best, search it. i'm too drunk to explain right now.

99
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Balance rail felts missing
« on: September 06, 2009, 09:32:52 PM »
yeah that's fair enough

 8)

the only other thing (actually not the "only other thing..i could fiddle for ours) i would suggest would be to check that the keybed is all joined together properly, and see if maybe there are weird shims anywhere or anything.
 
i once worked on a rhodes with metal washers under every key, people do strange things.

100
i want pics of gig on steps!  : :)

101
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Vintage Vibe Back Check Mod
« on: September 04, 2009, 08:34:59 PM »
I wish you HAD intended hat pun Steveo,
It was awesome.  8)

102
i just wanna say to anyone who has the cross bars and doesn't use them, YOU SHOULD!!
your legs or leg flanges will break eventually due to all the little side to side wobbling that happens when you play or people bump into the keyboard.
It will take a while but it will happen!

agahghaghgahga!

103
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / 1978 Stage 73 - Where to Start?
« on: September 04, 2009, 08:20:46 PM »
also, do not disregard strike line adjustment, this often seems to be the difference between a good rhodes and an awesome rhodes. helps with dynamic range and tone, from a kiss to a bark.

104
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Balance rail felts missing
« on: September 04, 2009, 08:16:31 PM »
when you say the keys look too high after the felts are on, what are they high in reference to? does the front pin still reach into the front of the key?

are there extra thick cardboard punchings? if so they may be playing the role of the felt, and could be replaced by the felt.

105
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / sustain pedal
« on: September 03, 2009, 07:47:14 PM »
awesome thanks, for the info,

i love the learny timez.

106
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / why do pickups go dead?
« on: September 03, 2009, 07:44:43 PM »
Rob,

 pizza :lol:


also, the first time i unwound a pickup i unwound it onto nothing, just pulled and pulled, it was a mess. and kinda funny. what did i expect to happen?!

107
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / sustain pedal
« on: September 02, 2009, 08:12:27 PM »
sean are "draft pins" used in like, drumkit hardware?

i recently was hassled by a pin type thing thinking "what is this bits deal, how do i make it come out!?"

is it the same thing and how do you make em come out?

i ended up drilling through it. :twisted:

108
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Tine rod install
« on: September 02, 2009, 08:09:12 PM »
ohh,

no it's just that your finger isn't strong enough to move all the dampers away from the keys.

that's where your strong man legs come in.

109
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / why do pickups go dead?
« on: September 02, 2009, 08:07:14 PM »
it took me a very very very long time to get good at the mixer technique.

i have fashioned bits of metal and odds and ends to hold the pickup in the right place and attach it to the mixer.

to wind the wire off:
i have a door stop connected to the mixer, and the pickup connected to a pencil with two roller skate bearings around it. i hold the bearings, tape the wire to the door stop and start. The pickup spins freely. i keep tension with a finger on the wire as it passes from the pickup to the door knob.
it's very important to keep the off winding even, for when you wind it back on.

when you get to the end:
remove door stop from mixer,
the pickup is attached to a bit of metal and then to mixer, with all effort put into centering it.
the door stop then goes around a paintbrush, i hold the paintbrush, turn on the mixer which makes the pickup pull the wire onto itself.
 and the door stop spins freely.
again i keep tension with a finger.

i guess this is "scatter winding" like all the 60's fender pickups, but not by choice.

you'd be surprised how strong the wire is,
you'd also be annoyed when it breaks. :)

how many winds, i have no idea but it will be the same or close to what it was because the wire is the same length.

i think i got lucky with the shape of the mixer, it's connections and the variable speed, it all seemed to come together as a really good machine for rhodes pickups.
also sometimes i make pizza bases.

110
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Tine rod install
« on: August 31, 2009, 09:08:10 PM »
i'm having trouble understanding what you are describing.

111
For Sale / Hohner Pianet T on eBay
« on: August 29, 2009, 10:01:19 PM »
stevie wonder would rock a casio

112
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Painting the harp cover...
« on: August 29, 2009, 09:57:34 PM »
primer coats,

lots and lots and lots of colour coats (do thin coats, be as patient as you can even when it kinda feels like you're doing nothing) and wait for the paint to dry between coats. and be careful not to hold the spray can above the cover so you don't drip on it.
also  when you start spraying again after a break, as the can can splatter a bit at first. maybe spray it at something else first.

then as many gloss coats as you can.


and yes spray, not brush.

113
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / sustain pedal
« on: August 29, 2009, 09:51:46 PM »
in 77 fender used to save some money by using parts from the stationary factory next door.

i joke though.

the rod shaft should sit around a little pin kinda thing coming up from the back end of the pedal.

114
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / sustain pedal
« on: August 28, 2009, 10:19:50 PM »
in what way is it flimsey?is there side to side movement?
it sounds like you have all the right parts.

115
JIM WHERE HAVE YOU BEEEEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????????

116
does anyone remember arguing with me about the lid being mdf?

lolz i win,  :wink:

117
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / why do pickups go dead?
« on: August 25, 2009, 04:37:36 AM »
yeah always at the start of the wind!!

also breaking pickups seems to be more common on the white tape models, I've worked on several rhodes's where as many as 45 and up can just die, and as soon as you have the piano ready to go again, another bunch will go. (this is ALWAYS on white tape models)
a dude told me once that this era of pickup is made from two materials, one of which kills the other.

i've rarely successfully done the hook method,
i have built a mixer rig, works a treat (variable speed) and i have gotten quite fast...my most hated rhodes job though, winding pickups.

118
felt on hammer action is my fave.

119
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / combo pianet weight
« on: May 23, 2009, 12:08:32 AM »
hi,
i'm just wondering if anyone can help me with the weight of a combo pianet . I've gotta put one on a plane.

i don't mean help me lift it, i mean how much does it weigh ,  :wink:

120
yes i meant the aluminium action rail.

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