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I guess you scored a new record... I just hope the guy at the store won't find out for your own safety

the pedal alone costs more than twice that price

the reeds alone cost several times that price...

hey, could you please point which component to tweak on the power amps in order to adjust gain?? this would fix my problem

thank you

not just cosmetics but preventing further corrosion anyway

Besides the "ported" fx, one of my channels delivers more output than the other, not just on speakers but while using headphones also, where it becomes more evident.

I have accidentally noticed that whenever I disconnect all speakers from the main amps, output gain becomes balanced on the headphones... might be a clue for someone understanding how this works

I have swapped channels and the problem also got swapped, to my knowledge this points to the main amps not the power amp/speakers

I'd greatly appreciate any help getting this fixed, thank you

the jacks on the piano work as input & output, so you can use input 1 as send then input 2 as return, and I guess thats the "proper" way

Move the pickups closer!

I have a 76' suitcase, I guess yours from 77' might be a peterson as well. Then I can say the phone out is stereo for sure. There might be many reasons for a single channel not working, from the jack socket itself to the amp/preamp, then first make SURE both channels work properly while jack is disconnected. Also check the preamp-to-amp cable. There are several different situations for a dead channel and this is a whole different story.

The phone out jack is not a standard jack but a double disconnection one, meaning whenever you plug your headphones, amp gain is reduced. Check the connections there but I dont think it's the socket, as they usually fail while jack is unplugged, not re-connecting the main amp to default. There might be just dirt not allowing proper connection.

Chances are someone replaced the original socket with a single-disconnection one which are commonly available, I can't upload pics right now but Im sure someone will came up with one

UPDATE: have a look at this, http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=7210.msg36591#msg36591

Thats wrong Mr Ray is NOT sample based. AAS lounge lizard sounds nothing like a rhodes, I agree it can sound great in a mix but anyone ever came close to a real rhodes would agree it doesnt sound realistic

A friend found this and gave it to me for free:


It doesn't look the same (not a problem really as it's hidden inside the power amp) but does the job BETTER than the original part, once you figure out the pin numbering correspondence.

btw... HOW TO FIX A BAD ONE (without replacing):

Once I took apart the original one, I managed to fix it. It had a loose contact on one of the open circuits, preventing it from connecting again properly (causing a single channel not to work at all). After some tweaking I managed to find the best way to fix it. It's simple but it was tricky to come up with this so I'd like to share my findings here for anyone who could benefit: You have to bend both sides of the open circuit WHILE A JACK IS INSERTED into the socket. You have to make sure they're as close as possible WITH A JACK STILL INSERTED.  That way they will make a tight contact when you get this unplugged... makes sense, right?

Thank you, I just made a search for "Switchcraft 14B" and found this locally for under $5

I have got around this several times cleaning and scrubbing contacts with no success to date, and its a tedious job to unscrew the whole cabinet+power amp then put it all together just to try out if it worked. I just plan to replace it for a new one and definitely fix it for ever (or else for another 30+ years)

thank you!

My cheapest shipping option: Priority Mail International $45.70, while package weights close to nothing and fits into a cigar box...

that for two tines, a wurlitzer logo and headphone jack retailing $65 (no complaints about pricing)

I would happily pay $15-$20 for shipping, USPS economy. $70 wouldn't pay any taxes... btw customs doesn't even bother to check tiny USPS packages. 

BUT 65+45.70=110,70 * 3% customs * 21% VAT=$137,97=more than twice the retail price, see my problem?

sure vv got no control over taxes, as they still have over minimum purchase limit and shipping options. I usually buy stuff from the USA so I know cheaper shipment is possible, and that is what Im talking about. Shipment cost is added to retail price for calculating custom duties, so very little we could save here would make a big difference. Also, packages under a certain value are tax-free, and this could only be done if no minimum purchase limit is set

I think vintagevibe prices are OK for the service they provide, and the risk they take in such development justifies paying little more inmho. Buying stuff from them I feel like Im somewhat contributing to guarantee the availability of the parts I would eventually need in the future.

Also, the love and care they put on their products is remarkable. No one but them would care to design and produce such an old parts nowadays for such a reduced target market, and I'd like to express my gratitude as they're providing not just parts but a whole service to our community.

Being that said, the only reason I don't usually order from them is the shipping policy. First you have to order a minimum amount... so what if you just need a single cheap item?? Thats annoying since its you who pays for the shipment anyway. Shipment options aren't any cheap either, besides you still have to pay for the customs STEAL... c'mon shipping a little bag of screws overseas doesn't take 40 bucks + taxes. I think you have to improve this before lowering any prices. I mean I feel great buying stuff from vv, as much as I DONT paying more for FedEX + taxes than I do for the actual goods I'm ordering.

I hope someday we can work it out for all of us european customers, Im not the only one asking as you can read in this topic

Nevermind I reminded this vv video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lkmDed4H-4

Very useful, lots of information on the troubleshoting procedure.

Any further comments are appreciated tough.

Hey guys, I have some trouble with keys #27 & #30 producing less output compared to the rest of them. I know there are two options, being: a) bad tine; b) bad pickup. What I don't know is how to make sure wich one is causing the problem before ordering a replacement (because shipping cost is WAY expensive).

Of course I tried moving the pickup as close as possible, resulting in more bark but not higher output. Also I have noticed whenever I press those particular keys harder, they dont sound louder but right the opposite (choking?)

I know pickups are working but I don't know how to test if they're OK. I have a multimeter but I don't know what do I have to check (ohms?) and what are acceptable values.

Besides, notes seem to output OK while picked with my fingers, so I think this might have something to do with the tine "hot spot" (bad tine?)

Key, pedestal and hammer don't have any noticeable difference from their neighbours.

Any help is appreciated!

For me, the best virtual rhodes available, coming in two flavours:

1. VSTi/AU/RTAS: Genuine Soundware Mr.Ray MkII

Light and cheap, the most realistic software emulation without any doubt. No other software instrument comes any closer. There's an older version they give away for free.

2. Sample library: Native Instrument Scarbee MarkI for Kontakt

THE rhodes library, not that cheap and a little hungry on resources but OK, the real deal, sampled by people who knows the instrument. Sounds like a PERFECT flawless rhodes. I miss some bark but in a recording you couldnt difference from a real rhodes.

There are a few other libraries you might consider (Neo Soul Suitcase, Chris Griffin Avatar Rhodes) but to me Scarbee is the way to go. Also there are plenty other you may not even bother to check... they use to fail on key releases and EQ.

For the FX section I use "Overloud Vintage Keyboard FX" wich is a decent all in one, also "Amplitube Fender"

The downside is software doesn't feel like you are playing a rhodes, even thoug it sounds like one. Also, I miss the mechanics noise while playing (no problem for a recoding, again)

Probably the hammer doesnt reach the reed or else it doesn't go back fast enough not allowing the reed to vibrate, because of bad lubrication. May the screw in the back got loose enough for the damper not lifting... reasons my vary but thats a mechanical issue for sure, it won't be hard nor expensive to fix so if it's worth the price go ahead and buy it!!

Notice the whole harp frame is a big pickup, so there couldn't be any electrical reason for a single key not being amplified

maybe balance rail felt shims were removed, allowing less travel to the keys, making the hammers to stop earlier not reaching the tines. Ill try shimming the balance rail pins further before cutting out anything

Yeah I want those screws & grommets sets for $15 also!

About the hammers missalignment, may I be wrong but my keybed looks right the same as yours, and I can't appreciate this making any sound/touch difference at all

Yeah, new concept... Ondes Martenot had pitch bending on keys back in 1928, also the ondioline

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ondes_Martenot

Its just a MIDI controller, an electronic device that can play sounds out of a computer or any other MIDI capable equipment. It doesn't have its own sounds but the ones you program in your synth/computer/sampler/whatever, being the results variable depending of the gear you choose to connect.

The only thing that's unique and interesting, you can bend the pitch of the sounds simply by moving the keys while pressed, just like on a guitar fretboard. Its cool but still needs to be attached to a computer.

Im just complaining about the treatment we get on that stupid website. They may have great ideas but a weird stupid sense of humor. They are just NERDS with a great product but with some behavior disorder. Also I just wanted to state that there's nothing wrong with "our grandfather's clavier"

Please notice this forum is about vintage instruments, about 99% of fellows around would probably prefer "our grandfather's clavier" over this invention... anyway welcome and thanx for posting.

~ Price: If you have to ask, you can't afford it.

No words for such a statement. I wonder how Jordan Rudess could even get involved... I'd love to see any of the big brands stealing this design for all of us whose can't afford this at the moment. Btw it seems they can't afford a decent website either.

I think the hammers still bouncing while striked again may got something to do with it besides the strike line theory... just came to my head suddenly

I have the same issue with my 1976 suitcase, half way between yours and shadetree's, and I couldn't get to fix this no matter what I tried. However a proper miracle mod did a HUGE improvement, but still not a success.

You can read my post here: http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=6851.msg35031#top
While I had a lot of help, nothing seems to work... so please post any further findings!

hammers are ok, thank you

After a whole lot of work on this I still not quite convinced of my progress... second strike still stops the already vibrating tine and it seems there isn't much I can do about it... any hints on the subject? Measures already matches manual specs.

I paid $2500 for my suitcase 2 years ago, and my (back then) non working 200-A took me around $800 plus $400 for shipping overseas last year. And believe me, for Europe those prices were a STEAL, and I wont sell any of them for twice as much now. A couple months ago I was offered $3000 for the wurly alone and I refused... now things gone worst I'd think twice before refusing such an offer thoug...

$300-$200?? hate you guys... 

Sounds great! do they sell this rack-mounted? can I install this without modifying the original rhodes faceplate design?

btw great playing also!

great video, thank you, will try it in the next few days!

I just noticed my keyboard has the same issue. The keybed seems to be flexible, whenever I press down any key harder than usual then the whole keyset moves a few milimeters down. I already knew my case is a little warped on the bottom, while the keybed is made out of a better wood and keeps the shape, so there is a visible gap in between. I thought it wouldnt be a problem as long as the keybed appears to be solid enough, then I readed this and I fear that I was wrong... not a big deal anyway

Just wondering if this could be found locally, just I don't know what to ask for. Maybe some of you know of a generic parts provider which sells such as components. Please notice this isn't a generic stereo jack socket since it also disconnects power amp whenever something is plugged in

Mine is making a bad connection to the left channel, which may not sound eventually. Of course it only takes to insert a jack and move it around to get it back, but i'm getting tired of this not working properly

I'd like replacing some chipped keycaps on my suitcase. It came with white felts under the hammers and bare flat pedestals. I need 4-5 but I'll buy some more for future replacement. If anyone could provide please let me know. Must be shipped to Spain but they don't weight much anyway.

Thank you.

Im really interested in this project, please post your findings, my broken 1976 keycaps need some love

From Spain tour 2012, just taken a couple hours ago


http://db.tt/ZTjyNSVA

73 peterson mkI suitcase (with wrong fender logo btw), yamaha CP70, custom black hammond b3 & matching leslie, minimoog voyager??

Nice setup, but sadly you can hardly hear this keyboards cut tru the mix

be careful, the fuses are short for a reason, the voltage regulator may be outputting wrong values, so dont bridge them but get them properly replaced instead

check the fuses, thats it

this picture is exactly what I needed, thank you. I had figured this out myself but I still wanted to see what it should look like from factory. thank you!

from the description on the vv website, the $225 200-A one is based on the 200 design and tone

http://www.arturia.com/evolution/en/products/wurlitzer-v/intro.html

I don't like the demos, so I'll be downloading this and trying myself

there are no samples available for this one on their website, and I don't really like that $425 variable vibrato... I like the original tone better, and I wonder how the bulb could affect the sound... too many options, too little info...

Im interested in how the vibrato and tone compares to the original one, could anyone make a recording for all of us to hear?

Yeah that for sure, since there isn't any... what would it look like? could anyone take a picture for me please?

thanks!

Every time I use the pedal I can hear a click, its not noticeable unless you use headphones but you can hear this at recordings. I need some info about proper ground wiring to the damper bar/pedal. Thank you.

thanks for your help guys...

I have spotted and fixed a connection causing some buzzing at the end of the rca cable to the front panel jack. Also I have found the damper bar is not grounded apparently, I have to check with a multimeter.

But also during my testing, I have noticed this "random noise" persists even while the jack is unplugged from the piano, so I guess it doesn't have to do with the piano at all...

My rhodes has a grounding noise while recording from the front panel jacks. This happens just sometimes, and it suddenly stops after a few minutes playing, coming back randomly. This is hardly noticeable unless I raise highs on my setup, but it sounds pretty clean when this noise stops and I'd love to have such clean sound always.

I'm sure it has to do something with grounding as whenever I touch the harp assembly/supports, this affects somewhat reducing/increasing such noise

It seems all cables are in place, every pickup screw is tightened, every soldering joint seems ok, I don't know what else to check
Any help?

those are power amps. Broken rca would mute a single channel only, you would still hear the other one, so it might be some further damage to the main amp

Shadetree this bottom is from a MKI/MKII not suitable for a sparkletop due to different measures