Messages

Thanks Sean - I hadn't found the pots on mouser, might be a good option. Looking now!
I had given up hope and will try cleaning the originals first. I think a direct replacement will be hard to find, they have an unusually long thread on the pots, but I will have another hunt 

Ah solved - found some other forum posts, one of which pointed to a diagram etc. The fat dowl inside the piano is longer than the Stage, and extends to the bottom of the piano case. Sorted!!

Hi, I'm refurbing a Suitcase which has a 5-pin Janus pre-amp / amp... it's a MK2 piano with a Mk1 rail/amp, which looks nice
I want to change the pots but can't find replacements from the normal Rhodes parts suppliers. I want to get it right... can I just order generic pots of the same resistance etc from local electrical suppliers?
They are 5k (vol), 25k rev (vib speed), 100k rev (vib intensity).  I guess they are 6.3mm dia shaft but haven't checked.
Any advice for me?

Hi, my Suitcase (1982) came without a working sustain pedal setup. I have the pedal, the square wooden rod that runs vertically inside the speaker cab, and a short (4") threaded metal rod that goes into the top of the wooden rod.  This all seems good... but even if I adjust it so it pokes out the top of the speaker cab - it will only protrude by a max of 1cm, which won't be enough to make contact with the wooden sustain down inside the piano which makes contact with the damper rail.
Am I missing something? I can't find any good pictures or diagrams, nor any relevant spare parts!

Cheers - I've sent you a message.

Hi - slightly off topic, but I don't plan to rewind my duff pickups (approx 5 of them), so what should I do with them? Happy to give them to someone. South UK.

Your bridle straps look quite tight

I wonder if it could be that your tine is touching the damper felt when it is first struck, which could cause an odd sounding harmonic (the 'metallic' sound you hear).  I'm not sure about this, but it would explain why you don't hear it when pushing down the felt manually. You could try adding a couple of mm bend to the end of a couple of damper arms and see if the problem goes away.  I would expect raising the harp by a few mm would help too, although that could cause other issues.

Woo!

Hi - soundcloud error: "This track was not found. Maybe it has been removed"

Hi, what year? The early 70s Mk1 have a screw in the middle of the damper rail; it allows you to pre-tension the dampers so that they move the right distance when the pedal is depressed.  Your screw could be too tight, hence keeping the dampers off some of the notes. If not, then you need to look at the damper felts (are they working ok, not too floppy etc), the bridle strap tension (small cloth strap on the front of each damper arm; if too tight then stops the damper returning fully). Your harp shims could be a bit too big one end, stopping the tines resting low enough. Otherwise the individual problemtatic damper arms probably just need a little bend upwards so they make better contact with the tine.
Read this: http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/ch4.html#4-3

Ah cool.  I like the look of the Fender logo ... but have kept my non-fender logos original.

Hi,

My late '74 Mk1 Stage 73 has the 'Fender' Rhodes logo on the back, but the name rail logos and serial number plate are just Rhodes.
So I guess this was made just as 'Fender' was being dropped from the logos etc, but they were still using up stock of the main rear logo.
The Rhodes is original, been in a studio for its whole life.

Anyone else seen a similar Rhodes with the mix of logos with / without Fender?  The fenderrhodes site says "Sometime in 1974, CBS Musical Instruments decided to drop the Fender name from the Rhodes line of products".... well we can be pretty accurate about when that happened.

Mike.

Thank you - I think mine originally must have had 5 screws, based on (what I think are) original looking holes in the case vs some of the other holes that have been made.  My guess is three across the front (like yours), and two at the back (no centre screw).

The frame is badly cracked where the screws should go, so I might go for 8 screws using your sketchup as a guide.  It would add a centre screw at the back, and two screws roughly in the centre, into the middle rail.  I've ordered a screw set....

Turns out that this Rhodes has spent its whole life from new in the studio from which I bought it, where sadly it has been neglected for the past 20 years.

Thanks again.
Mike.

Nooo somebody help me.  I've checked my Rhodes, and it doesn't match the diagram. At most it might have had two screws into the front rail, and two in the back rail. Nothing else unless screwed through from the top. Not sure what to do.

Ahhh hooray for @shadetreekeys... I found this - see attachment.

Original 3d model here:
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/77665892fd019b16d99c40d62b91faf5/1973-Fender-Rhodes-Seventy-Three-Cabinet-Bottom

Hi - please can anyone help with location of screws to attach key frame into the main case of a '74 Rhodes with wooden harp supports? Even a picture or similar?

Ah, this topic has just answered a question I posted... thanks!

Hi all! Been a while.  I have a question relating to a 1974 Rhodes Stage 73.

How should the main keybed assembly be screwed into the case? The diagrams I can find show the later screws (2 large, 2 small) but these older Rhodes don't have those.  Mine currently has 4 screws along the front and another 2 part way back - but these are straight through the tolex into the keyframe ... pretty sure they're not original.

Thanks!

Hi - by lid do you mean the plastic harp cover?  I guess so by the way you describe getting it sprayed.

I sanded primed, sprayed, lacquered my old lid and it looked fantastic (in my opinion):


I'm planning on trying matt black on my current one, which needs a big repair.

Hello and welcome :-)

You should have 4 glides on the bottom of the case, and four on the back (2 on back of the base where the large logo is, 2 on the back of the lid).  Have a look at some images on google and you'll see them.

Some pianos (e.g. my late 1975) have four hinges - 2 on each side. You have to buy the extra two separately if you need them.

Very interesting!
I suspect it's because the centre of mass has moved towards the end of the tine, so the tine overall takes more energy from the hammer when it is struck and hence resonates for longer.  I don't think it's the same as a tone bar clip - which I think is more about matching the tonebar to the tine to get a decent harmonic established (helping eliminate beating, which isn't perceptible at that frequency but does kill the resonance/amplitude).

I too would be very interested in other opinions or results here, because it seems such a simple (obvious) solution and yet I have never heard (nor thought) of it before either.

Maybe it depends how bad the tolex is.  The only bit that really matters, and is probably the most trashed, is the back of the piano with the large logo on - that's the bit that your audience will see.  I would consider patching up the sides and front (stick down any fraying tolex, paint any bits of bare wood black) - and then use the pristine tolex from inside the lid (you have this?)  to cover the back.  I've done this before, carefully peel the tolex out of the lid, remove the tolex from the back of the piano and make a clean cut along the bottom of the piano, then stick the new piece on (wrapped just inside the case, then trimmed).  Put a new logo on the back - the difference would be huge.

Mike.

Interesting, thanks for the replies.

A friend has a fancy laser cutter of some sort - he says he can cut the acrylic to the exact size, including 'scoring' it where the bends are going to be so we get a perfect bend. I was going to extend the top so we could fold down the two ends to make sides, and then make the corners into a feature (either by adding some trim, or doing something else to the joins).

With the various comments about strength I would probably go with a thicker acrylic, e.g. 8mm, but I think that clearance at the back where the damper mechanism moves will be an issue... can anyone confirm (my rhodes is in a pile of pieces at the moment).

Maybe I should stick with the good bit of my old harp cover, sand it and spray it, and make some thick acrylic ends for it instead (because one end is smashed off).

Hi,

Instead of buying a new harp cover I'm thinking about making one out of acrylic / plexiglass. I think the curved top might be hard to get looking good, so will follow the approx design of the MKII cover.  Does anyone have a decent drawing (with exact dimensions / CAD) for the harp cover?

Or has anyone done this and can share their experience?  I found a photo of a nice cover, plus a pic of a full plexiglass cased Rhodes, but no info.
This Mk1 version looks tasty but would be difficult:


And yes, I will put colour changing LED strip inside (and no it definitely will NOT look tacky :-) ).

Hey tjh392 - you sent me some tone bar clips back in June 2012 - thanks.

Yes, my piano is serial 32304, so just a few hundred earlier than yours by the look of it.  I don't have all the other numbers you mention - pic of serial sticker attached.

I am excited about this project, the notes that work had a great feel about them despite this model in theory having a sluggish action.  The damper arms are very springy and it has all original square hammer tips etc.  The issues are that the key rail guide pins are rusty, and the bushing felts have all fallen out (glue got wet). I'll need a few new pickups, a tine, bushing felt kit, couple of damper felts, but not much else.  Needs new case hardware and a badge. It also needs a new harp cover, but I think I might make one out of perspex... I'll start a new thread about this because I can't find much info about other people who've done this.

I presume electrickeys is the place for UK spares now, vs ordering from US or NL?

Great thanks.  I've ordered some half-round plastic for the miracle mod, I think that action typically benefits from it... although that's a long way off. I need to buy a load of other bits and strip the whole thing down first.

I made the lid for my old Rhodes just by copying the bottom half.  It seemed identical.  I estimated the size of the leg compartment based on other people's photos etc. Someone had created a 3D model of the Rhodes parts but I didn't use it (and it seems to have gone now); thread was here: http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=6986.msg35208#msg35208
It worked out well!

Hi, after a break of a couple of years (since this restoration: http://spradbery.com/blog/ - see the 'finished' pics) I have just got another Rhodes!
The stamp is 4352, which makes me think it's 43rd week, 1975, 2nd work day. Does that sound right?
It has all plastic hammers, flat pedestals (no felt), but the old style small hinges, and four latches (2 on each side).  The case lid has the straight (diagonal) sides without a flat bit near the keys.
I think it must be one of the earliest pianos to move to the plastic hammers? Fenderrhodes.com says that the change was made in 1976, but this suggests it was made earlier.
The piano is a rust bucket, but the hammer tips and felts are almost as new, and it still has the feet on sustain pedal and legs etc - I don't think it had much use before being stored somewhere wet.
Any comments appreciated!

Thanks - the Ibanez looks interesting, and Tanglewood too... please post your results back, you're a couple of months ahead of me!

Mike.

Hi,

Sorry I can't help... but I am looking for the same.

Please can you post if / when you find something?  These caught my eye but I haven't tried them yet:
Laney Audiohub 40 Watts Combo Amp PA
Roland KC-110

Thanks, Mike.

Thanks - some great info. Maybe worth a new thread...

I've just bought The Real McCoy and have also started fiddling with half-dim scales again :-)

Mike.

Brilliant!  If only I still lived in Norwich.... :-)  How can anyone resist a complete case hardware kit for that price?

You would need one of these (or whichever version is correct):
http://www.vintagevibe.com/p-553-4-pin-suitcase-cheek-block-power-supply.aspx

It's a power supply for the pre-amp and would give you two outputs for stereo effects.

Hi, spotted this on ebay UK... I am not the seller (nor affiliated in any way), but it seems like a rare bargain.  £200 for a genuine new old stock Mk1 suitcase namerail and pre-amp.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221340240358?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Tempted... to fit to my 73 stage!

Hi Cormac - I have a box full of hammers and dampers from a piano like yours - I think all the bridle straps are brand new on them too. And I have a load of shims, keybed / rail felts, screws & grommets etc, some new some used.  Let me know if you need any - you can have a handful of them for the price of postage and a pint of beer. Mike.

Hi Tom, sorry I sold my spare set earlier this year (£100). But I have various other Rhodes bits including a full set of wood/plastic hammers, if you need any.

Hi - just to answer your question "does this happen often" - my bolts had ripped through the bottom of the case somehow (from the outside through to the inside)!  I can only imagine someone tried to prize the harp out sometime, the bolt heads / washers must be 12 - 15mm (?) diameter which would be almost impossible to rip through!  The support block threads were ok though.

Mike.

Hi Martin, right now I don't need anything - but it's a good idea.  It might be worth emailing pjones@swmusicservices.co.uk as he seems to buy from VV regularly.

I've got the Roland VK7.  It's an old keyboard, but after a lot of tweaking I have a really ballsy Hammond sound. The Leslie is OK (again after some editing) and the distortion is good.  Drawbars work well.  I'm sure there are better options available, but these are only ~£400 secondhand I think so it suited my budget.
Boring Jazz on VK7 but you can hear it well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpBrgbBNk_0
Funky vk7: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yz4-2JeIPg

A lot of it is down to how you set it up and how you play it.
Mike.

Wow you move fast. Or is that sped up? ;-)

Hi, I would use the diagrams from shadetreekeys - they show all the correct dimensions / angles for the case.  His pics are for a 73 but the only difference is the width - I'm guessing you'll make the width exactly right for your keyboard anyway, so that's not an issue? http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?uq=0922794344241061147024820&scoring=m - note sketchup is free to install.

Then order some tolex, a hardware pack and Rhodes logo (from someone like VintageVibe) and you'll be all set.  I probably wouldn't bother with original legs; they're a hassle and expensive.

I built a new lid for my Rhodes, you can see some pics here: http://spradbery.com/blog

Hi, I have a handful of new and used grommets, screws, washers if you only need a few.  I have some assorted hammer tips knocking around too (and a whole set of hammers if you need any....).
If not, I too have used ep-service and found them very helpful.  Ordering from US was no probs either but postage is expensive unless you need enough stuff to make it worthwhile.

For UK folks - I bought 3-in-1 Silicone Lubricant, you can get it on ebay or pretty much anywhere.  It's a light silicone lube, 'food safe', spray, comes with a straw for accuracy.   3-in-1 are a pretty well-known brand here.

Hi,

I'm going to spend a bit of time tweaking up my action.  I've never lubricated it.  It looks like I could get some food grade silicon lube (spray or tube?) in UK, but not sure exactly where to stick it :-)

Do you lube both stainless pins under the keys, the miracle mod, and the pedestal? Anything else?

Mike.

I've sent you a message... pics below.
Mike.

Which country? I have a tatty set in UK.

Hi, I can't help you with a case - although if you decide to make one you can get a diagram and all dimensions online.

If you end up selling the Rhodes in its current state, please let me know as I might consider buying it (UK).

Also, I have a load of random old Rhodes bits if you need anything:
Loads of hammers (plastic/wood) some with tips; all with good hinges
Damper arms (the individual ones from earlier 70s Mk1) + screws
Leg set, rusty but functional
Damaged leg flanges, could be welded
Sustain push-rod wooden dowel with pins
Various grommets with screws, including full set of screws/grommets but using cupped washers like on the MkV
New key cap set, apparently for a Rhodes but no way of checking
Some random damper felts and hammer tips
Front name plate, but quite worn
Case handles
Pickups requiring a solder / re-wind (can be re-wound for £5 each)
Lots of felts and shims for front and balance rail, various sizes
Spring clips for helping treble tone-bar resonance
New set of pedestal felts
Maybe some other bits... no tines or keys though.

Thanks, Mike.

Hey Vortmaxx,  please do post your solution here when / if you sort it out...  Thanks!

I bought a load of stuff from VV, including their hardware kit.  The hardware kit is a bargain, it looks so amazingly good and I think it was cheap for everything you get (including screws).  Postage was quite a lot (to UK), but customs was OK - and there's no way I could have got all of the various random things I needed any other way.

Hi Matt - it sounds like you have the same problem as me.  I made mine a bit better by bending the damper arms, but it's still not quite right.  I need to remove the sets of dampers and have another go at it.  I'll let you know if / when I fix it :-)