Messages

I played the 61 key model the other day too when I was in a shop. I had had high hopes and the price makes you expect a lot as well. Unfortunately, I was not impressed with the rhodes sound, it did nothing for me...when I play my rhodes the sound just moves me whereas I get bored with the Nord sounds really easily.

I have a very old crybaby and it sounds really bad on my rhodes. Since I've had it for almost 20 years now, I havn't been able to use it for recording for most of the time 'cause it started crackling more and more and I've tried everything to get rid of it but to no avail...

after you remove the clip (which should be around a spring? you gotta really push the damper rail aginst the spring side and compree the spring, this should allow the opposite end to pop out.

I've got the same system in my Rhodes and I did the same thing Jim suggested and it worked for me, so the only other thing I can suggest is to check if the pin (the one without the spring) isn't loose so you have to push it back with a set of pinchers. Does this make any sense? I hope so...

As far as I'm concerned it's impossible to truly recreate the sound of any analogue instument, simply because the combination of factors that create the sound is impossible to really capture. Take the Rhodes; the heavy action, the old parts, the whole process of hitting a key, which pushes a hammer, which hits a tine and on and on and on...You might get close, which is good if you don't want to ruin your back doing gigs, but the sound will never move you the same way as the real thing. (Just my opinion haha)

wow! that looks like a really nice model, nice one!

In the land of the blind the one-eyed man is king...so people who are affraid to open their Rhodes and do some work on it tend to have to pay whatever a repairman asks for it. If there isn't a lot of competition in the area they can get away with mad prizes. My advise is; do as much as possible yourself and school yourself through these boards, so a repairman can't hit you with complicated sounding terminology to hide the fact he's overcharging you for a simple job you could have done in 10 minutes!

I have done lots of work on my '78 rhodes 73 stagemodel but I don't have a camera at the moment! The pictures you and the others have shown on this forum really helped me understand how to do some of these jobs, so keep it up!

I did do the bump mod albeit a version on my own. Depending what year of rhodes you have you might want to add this if its before june 1978 rhodes. I added the section of zip tie to the front of the pedestals but instead of removing the felts from the hammers (which looked in such good condition) I left them in place and made sure the zip tie had a smooth finish so not to cause any snags. I play a little and the action feels great to me now, Barney my keyboard player was amazed how it felt and is counting the seconds till I do the mod on his 1977 mark I. He claims it makes it much easier to play giving the rhodes much faster responce to his input.

heres the bump I added


If you didnt already know this is something the factory added (in the wood form of the ped obviously) to the pedestal from June 1978 I read.

sam

[/quote]

I'm just about to do the same thing to my Rhodes and it's great to actually see how someone else has done first!
Thanks.

I hate superglue!  

I had to replace one the other day and I couldn't see how the bridle strap was attached to the hammer. Is it glued? If so, what is the best way to take off the old one?

Thanks.