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Topics - Tehu

#1
Hi everybody,

This summer I had the chance to get a rare Baldwin CW-8-S Electric Harpsichord for cheap, without strings and missing a couple of jacks.

I spend the summer try to restore it, and I was relatively successful! Ordered new strings, tried options for refurbishing the jacks and I finished redesigning then in 3d printing, based on the Hubbard concept, with metal springs and delrin plectrum.

I made a full lenght video since the information is hard to find. It include a historic, my restoration process and a tons of audio demos, some using extensively the split feature in differents contexts! The video is in french, but there's a lot of image/video that can help you understand better, translation will come but long to do!

The youtube link include a link to the 3d model (stl file) that I dropped for free to everyone to try! It's a lot of adjustment, but as you will see in the video, it works well and do the job!

https://youtu.be/KCZG6nVoNh4?si=jGXQ19GJP55tF5jg

Hope you'll enjoy some light on this obscure instrument! I also got a in depth video about the rare Columbia Elepian, and some other rare stuffs!

Téhu
#2
Hi everybody,

I've just scored a nice mini combo organ and the only information i found on the internet is that page : http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1960s-gem-italian-combo-organ-vintage-90597325

The organ itself is really minimalist in its design, no sound tabs, fixed vibrato... and the lower keys (Bass note on standard combo organ) just repeat the  upper octave. I think its stock design, because in the link I posted, the guy describe the same particularity.

I'm not familiar with Divider organ, but i just want to know how difficult could be to extend octaves down instead of repeating the higher octave? Unfortunatly, I don't have any schematics of this thing and it's not listed on ''Combo Organ Heaven''.

Here's some pictures :







Thanks a lot,

Téhu

#3
Hi everybody,

I would like to share with you my last musical project, EP Boulevard.



I'm a big fan of Electric Piano and I actually own 4 differents models. Each track feature 1 or more differents EP.

-Rhodes Suitcase 88 1977 (w/ Peterson)
-Wurlitzer 200a 1979
-Yamaha CP60M
-Columbia Elepian
-Hohner Clavinet D6*

You can listen to the project right here : Tehu.bandcamp.com

Here's the tracklisting with the instruments used:

01-EPrélude
-Rhodes (snare, perc)
-Elepian (Bass, kick)
-Yamaha CP60M (Plucked Strings)
-Wurlitzer 200a
-Yamaha CS50

02-Tineline
-Rhodes
-Yamaha CP60M

03-Inimitable
-Yamaha CP60M (Plucked strings)
-Yamaha CS50

04-Ernst Strngs
-Clavinet D6
-Rhodes
-Roland RS101

05-Tehucaster
-Wurlitzer 200a

06-Electronic Reeding
-Wurlitzer 200a
-Yamaha CP60M
-Vox Continental

07-Entre-deux
-Columbia Elepian (!!!!!)

08-Dismantled Floop Ext.
-Rhodes
#4
Hi!

I just wan't to share with you this Wurlitzer 200a revival, and i'm so happy with it!

I got this piano for 50$, non working condition (very dangerous i must say), missing 6 reeds. I was my first time working on the mecanical part of a Wurlitzer 200 (a), but I had already own a nice blond 200 ten years ago.

All fuses was blown, the one on the ''electrical terminal'' near the knobs was removed, shorted with kind of lead wire...and actually there was only half of the current going to the pickup bars/amp (weird wiring)






#5
Hi,

I'm restoring my 50$ wurlitzer 200A, not so bad shape. But it miss the Upper hum shield..

I'm wondering if there's someone with generosity that could give me the overall dimensions and thickness of the Hum shield on the Wurlitzer 200A, i'm trying to do it DIY.

Thanks,

Xavier
#6
My friend is in process of recaping/rewiring my Wurlitzer 200A (paid 50 bucks) and he needs an information about the power transformer, here's the question:

I would need some info on the power transformer of an original Wurlitzer 200a, late version.
It has 4 primary wires (white, black, white-black and red-black.
The piano was found in Canada (120v) but the primaries of the transformer seems wired in series. Which according to the slim info i found on the net, should be for 240v.
The primary should be in paralel for 120v. It has a 3 prong grounded iec power connector (us).
Also, Vintage vibes replacement transformer is wired in series for 240v and paralell for 120v. 
On the tag strip,  the white-black wire from the transfo goes to neutral, the red-black and white wire from the transfo are connected togheter on the tag strip and the black wire from the transfo is connected to the fuse post on/off switch.



I measured the resistance of the coil and i get 60 ohm from the white-black wire   to the black wire. I get 30 ohm between either and the two wires connected togheter, which tells me, it is a center tap and the primary is wired in serie.
Also, the neon lamp was connected from the black wire to the "center tap" to get 120v at the neon in a 240v circuit?
Can anybody confirm if they have a piano wired this way for 120v or is it wired for 240v?

Thanks!
#7
This weed-end, i've been lucky to find out a still sealed, brand new ''The Rhodie'' preanmp for sale in Montreal. I bought it and paid 50$ for it.
Since i'm planing to use it, I unpack it very carefully.
Here are picture of the packaging and of the unit unpacked.





#8
Hi,
I just been lucky and find out a nice Columbia Elepian in the Montreal area. Traded against a barely playable, but complete Rhodes Mark II 1981 (Hell rusty, if you see my topics 2 or 3 months ago)
I decided to put some pictures here since there are barely no information on the net.

First of all, here's the Rhodes (Dressed like a Mark I)


Now here's the Elepian when it arrive


#9
Hi, I just buy my second Rhodes piano as a restoration project (My first being a nice Rhodes Mark I 88 Suitcase 1977). A pretty rought Rhodes Mark II 73 from 1981 payed not that much. There's a significant amount of rust on the tines, and the tuning springs are stuck in that rust (I see other topics, but I don't if anyone see this amount of rust?)
I would like to know if there's a good product that can eliminate the majority of the rust, I can do the rest by hand.
I don't want a perfect Rhodes, just to be in tune and this will be my experimentation Rhodes to test different setup, no recording or live playing. surprisingly, the wood parts aren't affected.
here are some picture :


Look pretty good from the outside, no cleaning done yet


Sooo rusty, this been sitting in a wet basement, maybe condensation under the plastic cover.


Tuning spring stuck in rust

Thanks for further help!

Téhu



#11
Hi, i brought a very good shape Wurlitzer last week, and i don't know anything about servicing.

Since one or 2 days, i got a little ''buzz'' on the lower ''F'', i'm sure that is a ''ground'' issue, but i cannot see where...
ANd other thing, certain time, i got all the Right side of my keyboard making a kinf of ''bozz'' or a ''bad connection (Kind of overdrive) '' sound... i sure that is again a ground issue!

and one last thing, last week i was checking the interior, and i broke a little Ground by inadvertence.. the one behind, just in the middle of the Hammer set. Maybe this will fix my ''right side'' keyboard probleme.. but for the first bozz, i don't know what appen!

I know my english suck, i'm french, but there's not that much info on the internet!

Thanks
Tehu
#12
Hi, I would like to know if the two sets of keys (plastic and Wood) can be switch, i would like to put plastic keys on a Wooden key Rhodes?
The keys im looking for are wood color (not the black one)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Set-Of-73-Plastic-Keys-For-Fender-Rhodes-Piano-NICE_W0QQitemZ270087047066QQihZ017QQcategoryZ16220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I'll like to have better action on my wooden key rhodes, it seems that the keys take humidity and they touch (lightly) each other...

thanks in advance!

Tehu
#13
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Keys Question
August 15, 2006, 02:24:18 PM
Hi, This post remember me that i have a question:
Is this normal that i have red ''pad'' on my keys



and i see other pictures that they dont have these, they have it on the base of the hammer!
is this a différence between the older Fender Rhodes and the Rhodes?
which give a bether action?
#14
Hi, i'll receive some new tines, and i want to know where or how can i get a copy of the Tine cutting measurment chart in 1:1 scale... I got it but when i print it, it down the scale a little bit, or somebody have the complete list of all dimention of all tines for a seventy three stage piano.
Or am i too dumb to be able to print it in 1:1 scale!
Plz Help me!

Thanks

Xavier
#15
Hi, I Just play on my friend Rhodes (look like new) and then i go back to play with my own Rhodes (Look like is age hehe), and the key action is really not the same, because i think mine was stored in a place with a little bit of humidity, and my wooden keys (not all but half of them)rubs on each other more than a good condition Rhodes, its make the action more hard on some keys! I just want to know if I ''buf'' (little bit) the side of my keys, is theres a problem? Logicaly no, i think, but i want to know your point of view  (Sorry for my poor english, i'm French-Canadian)
Thanks!

Xavier
#16
I Just Bought a Rhodes Stage Piano Seventy Three for 200$ CAN, and inside the manufacturing date is 1980.. and on the site they said that they was made between 1975-1979. anybody can answer me?! (sorry for my poor english, i'm a french.