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Messages - mikecap

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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Decrease key dip?
« on: June 16, 2021, 09:03:48 PM »
Hey y'all!

So happy this forum exists, and thanks so much to all the people who have shared their experiences. I've been doing some refurb on my '74 MK1, replaced hammer tips, damper felts, screws-washers-grommets-, and I'm about to now put in the miracle mod. I've been watching VV videos basically on loop ever since I got the kit, and the question/problem I'm getting to here is about the key dip.

I've leveled all the keys with paper shims and they all look really good and even. There was a little bit of sagging across the mids and low mids, so I ended up using the last treble key as a standard since that one felt the best to me (which funny enough is the highest pitch and highest height). That highest treble key (C), and about an octave or so below it all have a spot on key dip of 3/8". Once I get to about the D below that, key dip starts to get deeper. By the time I get to mids/low mids, I'm getting on average an additional 1/16" of dip. As I play the keys and kind of do arpeggios and scales up and down the keyboard, I can definitely feel the difference between the high treble keys and all the rest of the piano. I've seen one user on here say that shallower key dip feels more "choked" relatively, and yes those high treble keys definitely do feel tighter.

I have two questions:
1) I've seen a bunch of people say to shim the action rail to INCREASE key dip, but I haven't found anyone talking about how to DECREASE key dip. Is there a way to do this?
2) As I play the keyboard, the majority of the keys (bass through upper mids) do feel really good, and these are the ones with the deeper key dip, averaging at about 7/16". I've seen in the Rhodes manual that their spec for key dip is 3/8" plus or minus 1/16", so my second question is, should I just raise that top octave the extra 1/16" to match the rest of the keyboard?

Also wanted to note that I've looked under the key pedestals and the action rail felt all looks pretty even and in good shape, so I don't think there is inconsistency in the felt. Upon first taking everything apart, I noticed two keys were higher and looked under them to find a guitar pick, lol!!

Thanks so much for taking the time to read and answer!!

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Pedal
« on: May 11, 2021, 04:11:48 PM »
In regard to your 2nd point, about the pedal, I've noticed a bit of something similar when I play my Rhodes MkI. My theory is this, and it is more prominent on repeated striking of the same note: When the damper pedal is pressed and the damper bar does its thing, all of the tines are free to resonate. Even when you only play a note or a chord, I'm figuring that the vibrations from that note/chord are resonating the tines nearby. Here's my point: when you play a note the hammer tip meets the tine, when it is resonating (either from being struck once already or from neighboring tines being played) its resting position is different from where it is when the pedal is not pressed. The vibrating in the tines combined with a hammer strike might mean a dull interruption of the resonating note rather than a second clear attack. At least that's my theory and if that's the case I think playing a Rhodes with the pedal is just different than playing an acoustic piano, for instance. That's just my theory on it though, don't know if that's the hard and fast truth of it, but  hope that helps!

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