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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on Today at 02:11:03 PM »
It could be a broken trace or cold solder joint(s) on the amp board.
Have you reflowed the solder connections?
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« Last post by DougDA on Today at 12:51:40 PM »
it worked great.....  then i installed the vibrato kit....   and it still worked great (as before,  but with zero vibrato),   then it got to where it would play intermittently....and would go silent for no apparent reason, and sometimes the sound would come back after depressing the sustain pedal a few times.   this made me think something had a loose connection but i can't seem to isolate anything.

now I just get a loud woof sound.  i have the speaker connections hooked up to AMP OUT - 16  and ground.

fuses all test good.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by DocWurly on Today at 12:36:45 PM »
NICE.

Any insight as to why the spacers would start at that note?  Are they placed differently front to back?  I bet you're right -- it's on purpose.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurli sustain pedal issue
« Last post by jam88 on Today at 09:11:36 AM »
Alan, totally off topic-- Thanks, belatedly, for all your great work with the Michigan Daily. It was an interesting time to be in Ann Arbor. Great music!

(From Bob, retired in Traverse City)

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurli sustain pedal issue
« Last post by cinnanon on Today at 09:02:47 AM »
Do you have a grounding wire that connects the damper mechanism to the reedbar? It snakes through the middle.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by jam88 on Today at 08:17:56 AM »
I'm pretty sure that some were made without those wood spacers, I've seen a few without them...
Here are some damper observations from my 120.

My 120 has the damper spacers only on keys #39 and above. I assume it never had spacers on #1 thru #38. These spacers are about .250” x 250” x damper arm width.

The reed bar is spaced up with a wooden shim on each end. I presume this was from the factory. These shims are made from 6mm blockboard (NOT plywood). Have any of you seen these shims on 120’s or 700’s?

I bought this piano, S/N ~16500, in 1967, and assume it was original and unmolested when I bought it. It was like new, in the home of a pastor. It had the green foam dampers in it then.

Over the years, I’ve replaced the dampers a few times, always using regular piano damper felt from Schaff. Last time, on the 1-20 keys I used the vee-type single-string felts that are about 9/16” high overall (Schaff #1535).
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I would remove the name rail with the pre-amp first (there will be 2 screws for each cheekblock) the preamp should have a detachable connector to the left power supply cheekblock if you undo that then you can remove the rail and look at the preamp with a bit more space.



The foil you can bend back to check the electronics, it's a very simple preamp so there's not really much to go wrong. Check the 9V leads to make sure there's no breaks and if you can't see any immediate problems I'd then look to the power supply and battery switch within the cheek block.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206a - no sound
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on Yesterday at 09:56:28 PM »
Was it working before? Did it quit suddenly, or were you working on it with the power on?
It could be fuses, but it could be many other things also...
Trouble spots tend to be where connectors are
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Awesome! Hi Tim. Here is a link to an album with some photos of the piano front rail, metal shielding and stuff: https://imgur.com/a/uvNRnUZ. This model is a Seventy Three from 1979.

I haven't tried two 9vs in series or an adapter yet. Assuming neither of those work, what troubleshooting steps should I take?

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / 206a - no sound
« Last post by DougDA on Yesterday at 01:19:55 PM »
is there a way to check/test the output from the preamp?   I'm now getting no sound when played...only white noise/static from the speaker.
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