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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by theseacowexists on Yesterday at 09:40:19 AM »
Mine does not have the shims under the harp. I sent the same pictures to VV and to them it looked like the blocks had been removed from 1-34 and that I'd need to make my own spacers (which I had already done at that point).

My money is on inconsistency or experimentation at the Wurlitzer factory as the explanation for the inconsistencies. If the majority were built with spacers and no shims, or shims and no spacers, that would explain the size of the VV set. Heck, even the amp in this thing does not quite match the schematic.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by jam88 on Yesterday at 09:10:15 AM »
... late '59 120...

Reed bar spacer mystery--
Our pianos were made about the same time. Does your piano have wooden spacers at each end under the reed bar?

Mine does. I've shown this picture before, the spacers are about 1/4" thick, which is the same as the damper spacers on 39-54. My spacers are loose, not glued to the reed bar mounting blocks that are part of the piano case, and not coated with black shielding paint.

Has anyone else seen spacers like this?

I believe these spacers are standard from the factory, because
   --This extra elevation is necessary to locate the reeds relative to the hammers and dampers
   --I doubt that the piano had been modified before I bought it in 1967.
   --The spacers look 'manufactured', not like something a tech would make
   --The spacers are made of blockboard, not plywood or solid wood. Unusual material, but common to Wurlitzer. The keybed of the 120's case is made from 1/2" blockboard.

Speaking of blockboard, a little off-topic, but the construction of the 120 cases is really solid. They're NOT 'particle board'. If you've never seen one stripped: they are cold-molded plywood on the blockboard base, screwed together with tons of c'sunk #10 wood screws, filled and sanded before the application of the awesome ;) Zolatone.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on August 07, 2020, 07:07:36 PM »
Great idea!

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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by theseacowexists on August 07, 2020, 10:27:13 AM »
Instead of dealing with returning the kit in whole or partial, I cut 34 new spacers to make the dampers work with the piano. Worked like a charm.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Fender Rhodes Mark 2
« Last post by loemmeloemm on August 07, 2020, 06:19:44 AM »
Whats the name ofthe pickups on the website?
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Whatever Happened To The Dyno 4000?
« Last post by Groove4Hire on August 06, 2020, 06:50:45 PM »
Just thought I'd update this very old thread by letting you guys know that the Studio Model 4000 in Japan has been located and is on its way to me. A few pics attached... More to come  8)
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on August 06, 2020, 05:46:03 PM »
Using 200 style dampers usually works since they are taller.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by theseacowexists on August 06, 2020, 10:10:01 AM »
Bumping this old thread...

I ordered the 120 set from VV for my late '59 120 and am having the same issue. Mine has the spacers on 35-54. They appear to be identical to the one on Jam's. The old dampers on the piano correspond to the spacers - i.e. dampers 1-34 are the same height as the dampers+spacers on 35-54. VV's are all the same height as the old 35-54 dampers - perfect for those, but too short for 1-34.
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Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Rhodes Help
« Last post by JB on August 05, 2020, 08:47:20 AM »
Hey Sonicbed,  First of all I'm a novice who just got '73FR73 and no expert at all but for whatever it's worth. Mine finally cranked up but not until I cleaned the back left rca connection assembly using fine sandpaper and some electrical cleaner. I had already cleaned the input jack on the front panel and looked close at all the pickups/connections and 2 ground connections on the long wires. I missed a basic. Some metal and even solder just oxidizes/deteriorates from age. It didn't look oxidized and maybe it was something else but my very fine luthier friend said you can't tell by looking even if it looks clean and that he has fixed a ton of equipment doing just that. Check your grounds too. Hope you'll be as lucky as I was and it comes to life. JB
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Thank you, that's exactly what I did in the end. Carefully scraped away old glue along the seam, then used a sewing needle to bead glue around the edge. After letting them dry overnight, I've put the keys back into the keybed - no clacking! Hooray!
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