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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Dating a Wurlitzer
« Last post by DocWurly on Today at 07:48:08 AM »
600613-C is probably a part number

Are you sure it's 813 and not 831?
"831" means "Better Coil & Transformer", who did a lot of Wurlitzer's transformers.  939 means "the 39th week of 1959."
Preamps, Modifications & Upgrades / Re: Retroflyer Preamp
« Last post by burymyteeth on December 04, 2019, 10:05:53 PM »
Hey all I just wanted to add my own experience with the RetroFlyer, I purchased a few months ago for my Mark I Stage 73. Im absolutely in love with the sound of my Rhodes ever since I put it in. I can't tell you how much time I spent obsessing over my Rhodes tone before I bought the retroflyer hahaha, and when I put it in it was finally like "ahhhhhh". I use it with a Roland Space Echo RE-201 as well, and it really help drives the thing properly. Most importantly the stereo outs really sealed the deal for me, as I play with two Twin Reverbs, one clean and one with the RE-201. It brought together so many pieces of the puzzle and was insanely easy to put in. If you are, like I was, maniacally scavenging for some solution to your Rhodes tone, I really don't think you can go wrong for the price.
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Testing some people's ears...
« Last post by LowreyT1 on December 04, 2019, 11:28:32 AM »
Thanks Alan I thought it would be interesting for some people to guess what it was I guess it was also a success to know that I have something is like a Gibson finally lol.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Wood harp supports specs
« Last post by tomsrob on December 04, 2019, 08:57:09 AM »
Hey guys, thanks for the replies.

Alan, yes for sure it's pretty clear to me that the escapement on this piano is too high and was planning to shave them down. I like to play fairly hard but there are a majority of notes that don't even sound on a medium strike. Just was curious if there was a factory measurement as a base starting point or reference. (or to see if these were way off like someone had replaced them already)

Thanks for the video Glen. I did watch that ages ago and forgot about it.

Unfortunately my table saw has seen better days and I don't think I can get a precise enough cut so I'm thankful to have wood worker friends.

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Testing some people's ears...
« Last post by Alan Lenhoff on December 04, 2019, 08:46:21 AM »
Yes, that's a very nice digital emulation. Nice job on the tweaking!

Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Testing some people's ears...
« Last post by LowreyT1 on December 04, 2019, 08:27:09 AM »
Still have not found me a Gibson yet lol.. but I recently bought the Arturia V collection software and it had a farfisa with a preset called lucy for lucy in the sky with diamonds. It sounded a lot like a gibson so i tweaked around a little and it is pretty good.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Wood harp supports specs
« Last post by Alan Lenhoff on December 03, 2019, 08:06:21 AM »
In the absence of any of the techs on this list responding, my less experienced thoughts:

It sounds like you're over-thinking this.  There is no perfect height for the supports. Part of setting up the escapement is player preference. You're trying to allow yourself to play both loudly and softly. But if you like to really pound the keys, you may need to set the escapement higher than someone else who generally plays with a very light touch. Shims allow you to make those adjustments as long as the harp supports allow you to go as low as you'd like.

So, why not just have your woodworker friend shave a 16th or an 8th inch off your existing supports?  Try it and if it's still too high, shave a little more off.  If you take too much off, just restore some shims.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Chemical fluids
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on December 02, 2019, 08:22:21 PM »
Yes, I mix protek with denatured alcohol too for removing moisture. The other techs in the PTG looked at me funny when I told them this.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: “Tink” sound when hitting key
« Last post by Fred on December 02, 2019, 03:45:42 PM »
This is actually quite common in that area of the piano. In order to get proper adhesion, you will end up melting the whole "pyramid" of solder which will then require reshaping. To prevent separation in the future, remove all solder from the end of the reed, file the area of the reed to receive the solder (to provide a surface for adhesion), and tin that area of the reed. THEN begin building and shaping a new solder pyramid.
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