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#1
Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Homemade electric piano (S...
Last post by JamieOxford - April 14, 2026, 03:25:25 PMThis is some amazing work! It would be wonderful to hear what it sounds like 
#2
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Which screws for 200A harp?
Last post by JamieOxford - April 14, 2026, 02:46:41 PMDoes anyone know what size/thread these screws are on my Wurli 200A? (The middle/coarse harp screws)
They're killing the sustain of a few notes when tightened and are too short/worn to be shimmed with card as the service manual suggests.
Thanks !
They're killing the sustain of a few notes when tightened and are too short/worn to be shimmed with card as the service manual suggests.
Thanks !
#3
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / What brand/series of electroly...
Last post by JamieOxford - April 13, 2026, 01:42:17 PMI'm finally getting round to restoring my Wurli and wondering what models/series of electrolytic capacitors would be best for the pre & power amps? It's a bit of a minefield with things like ESR so any help would be greatly appreciated. (I usually end up using Panasonic, Vishay or Nichicons for synths & outboard equipment)
I've already bought replacement transistors and I'm working off this Vintage Vibe schematic.
Below is a list of parts I've put together that may need replacing in future. The caps are noticeably worn so I'll start with those and the preamp transistors to reduce the noise. If there's anything else worth looking at whilst I'm in there, please let me know.
Thanks !
Electrolytic Caps:
5, 6, 8, 26 - 4.7uF
7, 10 - 22uF
12 - 100uF
23 - 1uF
27 - 47uF
28, 29 - 2200uF
Film Caps:
30, 31, 34 - 0.33uF (Panasonic ECW-F2334JAQ)
Metal Film Resistors:
1 - 22k
2 - 1M
3 - 470k
4 - 150k
5 - 33k
6 - 1.8k
7 - 270
8 - 820
9 - 6.8k
10 - 56k
Transistors (spec sheet here)
TR1, TR2, TR15 - 2N5089
TR3, TR4 - 2N5088
TR7, TR8 - 2N5087
TR12 - MPSA56
TR9, TR10, TR14, TR16 - MPSA06
TR16 - KSP13BU (later serial # pianos - post #102905)
TR11/TR13 - TIP35C & TIP36C (power output transistors)
I've already bought replacement transistors and I'm working off this Vintage Vibe schematic.
Below is a list of parts I've put together that may need replacing in future. The caps are noticeably worn so I'll start with those and the preamp transistors to reduce the noise. If there's anything else worth looking at whilst I'm in there, please let me know.
Thanks !
Electrolytic Caps:
5, 6, 8, 26 - 4.7uF
7, 10 - 22uF
12 - 100uF
23 - 1uF
27 - 47uF
28, 29 - 2200uF
Film Caps:
30, 31, 34 - 0.33uF (Panasonic ECW-F2334JAQ)
Metal Film Resistors:
1 - 22k
2 - 1M
3 - 470k
4 - 150k
5 - 33k
6 - 1.8k
7 - 270
8 - 820
9 - 6.8k
10 - 56k
Transistors (spec sheet here)
TR1, TR2, TR15 - 2N5089
TR3, TR4 - 2N5088
TR7, TR8 - 2N5087
TR12 - MPSA56
TR9, TR10, TR14, TR16 - MPSA06
TR16 - KSP13BU (later serial # pianos - post #102905)
TR11/TR13 - TIP35C & TIP36C (power output transistors)
#4
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Cleaning bass/treble slide...
Last post by Commander Fluffypants - March 23, 2026, 07:39:21 AMThanks again Alan.
I had already checked that video out. I wasn't sure if that advice would apply to a fifty year old Rhodes or not. He mentions the faders in a controller being made of a plastic ribbon or something. Is a Rhodes fader the same technology/materials? Or does that matter?
I think I will start with the liquid. If that doesn't work, I'll try the F5 spray.
I had already checked that video out. I wasn't sure if that advice would apply to a fifty year old Rhodes or not. He mentions the faders in a controller being made of a plastic ribbon or something. Is a Rhodes fader the same technology/materials? Or does that matter?
I think I will start with the liquid. If that doesn't work, I'll try the F5 spray.
#5
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Cleaning bass/treble slide...
Last post by gacki - March 22, 2026, 06:08:39 PMI must say that I'm always a bit confused about the various Caig products. For example the "F" series is advertised sometimes as applicable for both conductive plastic and for carbon controls; however looking at the individual descriptions it's always "conductive plastic".
I've been using F5 spray nonetheless on many carbon controls as well and it seems to work generally well. But sometimes you really need to disassemble the faders - just flushing them might not do it.
F5 spray provides flushing action, FaderLube doesn't. And then there's also FaderGrease. I've noticed that sometimes after cleaning faders (or pots where it's even more pronounced) that the controls lose their "mechanical resistance". Read: they are moved too easily. I believe applying FaderGrease should rectify that.
If everything else fails: I believe those faders still can be bought.
I've been using F5 spray nonetheless on many carbon controls as well and it seems to work generally well. But sometimes you really need to disassemble the faders - just flushing them might not do it.
F5 spray provides flushing action, FaderLube doesn't. And then there's also FaderGrease. I've noticed that sometimes after cleaning faders (or pots where it's even more pronounced) that the controls lose their "mechanical resistance". Read: they are moved too easily. I believe applying FaderGrease should rectify that.
If everything else fails: I believe those faders still can be bought.
#6
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Cleaning bass/treble slide...
Last post by Alan Lenhoff - March 22, 2026, 08:29:47 AMOne other thought: If your sliders are really dirty, the spray offers some flushing action. So, in that case, I can see some rationale for using the Deoxit F-5 spray carefully, rather than the F-100 liquid.
Alan
Alan
#7
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Cleaning bass/treble slide...
Last post by Alan Lenhoff - March 22, 2026, 08:17:46 AMThis video explains using the various Caig Lab Deoxit products to clean pots and faders. The short version is that you should use the F-series (F for fader) Dexoit products for sliders and pots, and not the D-5 contact cleaner sprays. They show the use of an F-series spray. I suppose that's okay if you don't overdo it. But I'd rather carefully put a drop or two of liquid into a slider than spray something that could end up in places you don't need or want it to be.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFP0vSJexFQ
Alan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFP0vSJexFQ
Alan
#8
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Cleaning bass/treble slide...
Last post by Commander Fluffypants - March 21, 2026, 10:42:47 AMThank you Alan.
I think what I'm specifically wondering is whether I could damage something with overspray. I can't see if the fader mechanism is partially enclosed or if there's anything nearby that could get damaged. It's interesting that the fader lube comes in a tube and not a spray like the other DeOxit that I have.
I think what I'm specifically wondering is whether I could damage something with overspray. I can't see if the fader mechanism is partially enclosed or if there's anything nearby that could get damaged. It's interesting that the fader lube comes in a tube and not a spray like the other DeOxit that I have.
#9
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: Cleaning bass/treble slide...
Last post by Alan Lenhoff - March 21, 2026, 07:12:25 AMI think the answer is that disassembly and total cleaning is always the best solution. But I have gotten great results using this on sliders for a Roland Juno-60: https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Faderlube-Plastic-Controls-Sliders/dp/B01MXFA615/ref=sr_1_3?adgrpid=183626826702&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zmutQbZyASmJkknNAekriFXOurPVt-19wLAPdq2LSAT-7kuAy_c6nCUMqzeohT7EvOER-cw138mRBZHM0KE3zgyafWOll9FzhfhipvY6VmANJz0_ZEWavPDVXL_KYlxDZ4-ySlunwaiUPYSrCLsuQE8d7l4nAHyI-lpvGRkeiesCAKflgOjtzRXX2zG9iNMDGtyQyoYRuDcrjUpGCl_FVIw_WFtyhhc5P7arDcMFM-gZVn5-JBcUj2_CbZAsKX9BnPUCZEK7pFBqFZf-yhZwJ_EvC4wmOFQCcrlBfji540E.t5cepGlqeLoWgTs4DXn2a__Cuq-4tzJDsNGb9BGYcQU&dib_tag=se&hvadid=792682731982&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9016785&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=5230745823139865372--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5230745823139865372&hvtargid=kwd-1930921653815&hydadcr=18073_13827916_2396316&keywords=deoxit+slider&mcid=d0313f3b169a36a49549fcbd5c8e3639&qid=1774094813&sr=8-3
You can hardly tell from the photo, but these are VERY small tubes.
Alan
You can hardly tell from the photo, but these are VERY small tubes.
Alan
#10
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Rhodes Restoration Success Sto...
Last post by 400hands - March 19, 2026, 01:37:10 PMI talk a lot - I'll stick a little TL;DR at the bottom for those who just want to see the pictures.
I started working at a music store in town about two years ago, and was delighted to discover a Rhodes in the basement - after some time I talked the owners into letting me buy it at a VERY comfortable price because of its "questionable and untested condition." Upon arrival home and doing a little research I discovered I had a very interesting piano, a 1979 Mark II early version, with a Mark II preamp and cabinet, but a wooden keybed and the action bump! Despite having all the Mark I goodness, it was still a II at heart, and she had about 40 or so dead pickups. This did not work out for the wallet of a 19 year old, especially with multiple Vintage Vibe technicians recommending I just replace the whole set. I had some vague experience soldering but doing 73 pickups at once sounded terrifying to me, especially with such fragile parts. I am well versed in guitar and other fretted / stringed instrument repair, but this just fell so out of my wheelhouse... So it sat for about a year, with me occasionally touching it up cosmetically and playing it to hear the tines inside the enclosure.
Enough time passed, enough money was set aside, and I felt like I could pull it off, so I bought 75 (2 extra for room for error) new pickups that Vintage Vibe so kindly got to me very quickly. I detached the harp and went to work, removing every pickup and installing each new one. This was probably the longest part of the process.
When all new pickups were on, I went through and wrapped the pickup wire around each pickup, one time on either end of the pickup terminal (146 times total) and went though and dropped a drop of solder on each wrap (again, 146 drops of solder). Not as intense as I had feared and I was done in no time at all - the whole job took maybe 4 hours total. 73 brand new pickups, just like that.
It took a little more touching up but it's all in working order now and sounding fantastic, feeling great and giving me no trouble at all. I use it to hold other keyboards or gear I'm utilizing while recording, and really appreciate the flat-top design of the Mark II over the look of the Mark I. I feel like I got the best Rhodes of both worlds!
Just finally felt like sharing now that it's back in working order, and I don't know many people in my life that would appreciate this kinda thing, haha - I'm 20 years old and have always been fascinated by Rhodes pianos, ever since I fell in love with the "EP" setting on my first digital piano. Proud to have one finally and proud to be able to say I'm the one who fixed it up!
TL;DR : I installed a set of 73 new pickups on my oddball 1979 Mark II with wooden keys and other Mark I attributes, and got it working for the first time since who knows how long.
I started working at a music store in town about two years ago, and was delighted to discover a Rhodes in the basement - after some time I talked the owners into letting me buy it at a VERY comfortable price because of its "questionable and untested condition." Upon arrival home and doing a little research I discovered I had a very interesting piano, a 1979 Mark II early version, with a Mark II preamp and cabinet, but a wooden keybed and the action bump! Despite having all the Mark I goodness, it was still a II at heart, and she had about 40 or so dead pickups. This did not work out for the wallet of a 19 year old, especially with multiple Vintage Vibe technicians recommending I just replace the whole set. I had some vague experience soldering but doing 73 pickups at once sounded terrifying to me, especially with such fragile parts. I am well versed in guitar and other fretted / stringed instrument repair, but this just fell so out of my wheelhouse... So it sat for about a year, with me occasionally touching it up cosmetically and playing it to hear the tines inside the enclosure.
Enough time passed, enough money was set aside, and I felt like I could pull it off, so I bought 75 (2 extra for room for error) new pickups that Vintage Vibe so kindly got to me very quickly. I detached the harp and went to work, removing every pickup and installing each new one. This was probably the longest part of the process.
When all new pickups were on, I went through and wrapped the pickup wire around each pickup, one time on either end of the pickup terminal (146 times total) and went though and dropped a drop of solder on each wrap (again, 146 drops of solder). Not as intense as I had feared and I was done in no time at all - the whole job took maybe 4 hours total. 73 brand new pickups, just like that.
It took a little more touching up but it's all in working order now and sounding fantastic, feeling great and giving me no trouble at all. I use it to hold other keyboards or gear I'm utilizing while recording, and really appreciate the flat-top design of the Mark II over the look of the Mark I. I feel like I got the best Rhodes of both worlds!
Just finally felt like sharing now that it's back in working order, and I don't know many people in my life that would appreciate this kinda thing, haha - I'm 20 years old and have always been fascinated by Rhodes pianos, ever since I fell in love with the "EP" setting on my first digital piano. Proud to have one finally and proud to be able to say I'm the one who fixed it up!
TL;DR : I installed a set of 73 new pickups on my oddball 1979 Mark II with wooden keys and other Mark I attributes, and got it working for the first time since who knows how long.