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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Preamp beat
« Last post by pnoboy on Today at 04:23:45 PM »
Someone with a knowledge of electronics need to trace the signal through your preamp.  No doubt some component(s) in the tremolo circuit have problems.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Sound Adjustment Advices?
« Last post by pnoboy on Today at 04:21:58 PM »
A few things come to mind.  First what is the tine to pickup spacing, especially in the bass?  Second, I assume you've played with the voicing screws in the bass to bring out more overtones, have you?  What happens to the sound if you turn the bass control down?  Finally, many Rhodes sound tubby unless one puts a dip in the frequency response around 200 Hz, give or take about 50 Hz, depending on the amp and speakers/cabinet.  This issue is most easily tested by using a parametric equalizer.  What are you using for speakers and speaker cabinet?    BTW, what happens to the bass sound if you play ff?  At some point, you should hear overtones.  Rhodes pianos will almost always sound tubby without the right combination of frequency-response settings and an appropriate speaker cabinet.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Preamp beat
« Last post by fugo on Today at 03:49:20 PM »
I have a '75 piano w/ satellite speakers.  Everything sounds great, but when the vibrato is turned on there is a low-level beat heard through the speakers that varies with the vibrato speed.  I also have a cheek-block power supply for the preamp so I can use a different amp.  The beat is audible through the different amp as well.  Any thoughts on how to fix this annoyance?
Parts, Service, Maintenance & Repairs / Re: MKV Hammer Tips
« Last post by bourniplus on Today at 01:49:58 PM »
Hi, there is this thread from a few years ago in which you participated:

At the end of thread I describe what I did for the middle of the range. I never replaced the original bass hammers so I can't help you with that.

Part 1 and 2 of this video worked for me. Had the same problem with a couple keys. I went through every action part(as shown in the video) and lubricated each part with a Naptha/silicon solution. Then gently expanded the bushing holes underneath each key. Also libricated each metal bushing with a fine household oil. Took around 5 hours total but each key’s action is perfect.
I saw that one too. Insane. It did look pretty clean though. As for the true Ray spec with the pin style pre -cbs rear hinges and hazy chrome name rail with jack over to the left, I've only seen 5 with those features in addition to my own and one was Ray's.
Is that output on your wurli set up as an aux out? If it is youd have much better luck if you plugged the signal from the wurli into an amp and then into the cabinet. If its a headphone jack it would send some (small) wattage to drive the phones (it should also kill the internal speakers when you plug into it), in theory the phones jack would drive an external speaker- but not very hard. Most folks use the aux out run to an amp/direct box/pa system.

Hope this helps!
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: My 200 just got a warneck/retrolinear!
« Last post by DoctorTeeth on Yesterday at 06:17:38 PM »
Visited a friend and trusted tech the other day and he was working on two wurli’s, he showed me how to carefully ease the key bushings with a pair of pliers (although he has the proper tools), today i went ahead and eased each key on my 200 with a pair of needle nose and a thin flat piece of steel stock on the side of the key to keep from chewing up the wood. Worked like a charm, and saved me some cash! A little bit went a long way! Now only a very few number keys dont return with the sustain pedal down, and they all function very well without the pedal depressed!

Could the lack of return be due to impropper regularion? Ive got the “good” wrench for adjusting the capstans, but havent touched them.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Wurlitzer 200A +15V supply question
« Last post by David68 on Yesterday at 04:31:57 PM »
I'm working on a 200A with its original amp, and the +15V supply is a bit on the low side at around 14.2V. I realize that this is not a precision device, but I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what provides the voltage reference for the regulator chip since I don't know what the circuit is inside the chip. Will the 15V supply be off if R54 and R55 (10k 1%) have drifted?

Pictures of Franken-Wurly^^
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