1
For Sale / Re: Rhodes 54 note for Sale - Melbourne Australia
« Last post by vcf4012 on Yesterday at 12:14:25 AM »PRICE DROP
Now down to $AUD 3150
Now down to $AUD 3150
Recent Posts
2
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Wurlitzer 700 help
« Last post by jmal999 on August 21, 2019, 09:34:59 PM »Hello,
Brand new member here, so thanks in advance for the help and for tolerating any faux pas I may make. I received a Wurlitzer 700 for free from a neighbor down the street and I would like to get it into some type of playable shape. I am not a keyboardist, so it doesn't have to be perfect, but it definitely has some room for improvement.
The issue I am facing right now is a considerable gap between the majority of the dampers to the reeds. I have attached a not very great picture to better illustrate what the problem is. I removed the completely deteriorated green foam looking dampers that were on the arms and replaced them with dampers from Vintage Vibe. Admittedly, the Vintage Vibe dampers did not really come with instructions, so I may not have installed them correctly. They appear to be very slightly rectangular, and I installed them where the width of the damper matched up with the damper arm. Had I installed it the other way, there is a chance I could have gotten a little more length out of the damper, but they just seemed to fit right the way I installed them. I am just not sure.
After installing the dampers, I twisted the damper level lift dowel to try and drop the damper arms, but I am having to turn it so much that the keys are dropping in the key bed. That coupled with the fact that most of the dampers are more than an 1/8th of an inch off of the reeds makes me think maybe there is another problem going on here.
I did search the Wurlitzer part of the forum before I decided to post this and read all of the 120 and 700 posts I could find. One user discovered that the damper rod was not pulled up all the way and that was causing all of his dampers to not touch the reeds. I did try to pull back on the damper rod assembly and cannot get the rod to lift anymore than it already is, so I am thinking that is likely not the problem. I also wondered if the rubber washers under the harp have degraded over time and have caused the harp to drop. I did wedge some guitar picks under the harp to lift it a bit and that may have helped somewhat, but I would need to lift it even further to get things where they need to be. I may try that next.
Any thoughts on where to go next, or what I am doing wrong? I don't think I can really work on the action until I get the dampers working. Honestly, most of the keys work well enough that I can tolerate them - just a dozen or so need tweaking - and the amp works, so I will have a fairly useable piano if I can get this part sorted out.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Brand new member here, so thanks in advance for the help and for tolerating any faux pas I may make. I received a Wurlitzer 700 for free from a neighbor down the street and I would like to get it into some type of playable shape. I am not a keyboardist, so it doesn't have to be perfect, but it definitely has some room for improvement.
The issue I am facing right now is a considerable gap between the majority of the dampers to the reeds. I have attached a not very great picture to better illustrate what the problem is. I removed the completely deteriorated green foam looking dampers that were on the arms and replaced them with dampers from Vintage Vibe. Admittedly, the Vintage Vibe dampers did not really come with instructions, so I may not have installed them correctly. They appear to be very slightly rectangular, and I installed them where the width of the damper matched up with the damper arm. Had I installed it the other way, there is a chance I could have gotten a little more length out of the damper, but they just seemed to fit right the way I installed them. I am just not sure.
After installing the dampers, I twisted the damper level lift dowel to try and drop the damper arms, but I am having to turn it so much that the keys are dropping in the key bed. That coupled with the fact that most of the dampers are more than an 1/8th of an inch off of the reeds makes me think maybe there is another problem going on here.
I did search the Wurlitzer part of the forum before I decided to post this and read all of the 120 and 700 posts I could find. One user discovered that the damper rod was not pulled up all the way and that was causing all of his dampers to not touch the reeds. I did try to pull back on the damper rod assembly and cannot get the rod to lift anymore than it already is, so I am thinking that is likely not the problem. I also wondered if the rubber washers under the harp have degraded over time and have caused the harp to drop. I did wedge some guitar picks under the harp to lift it a bit and that may have helped somewhat, but I would need to lift it even further to get things where they need to be. I may try that next.
Any thoughts on where to go next, or what I am doing wrong? I don't think I can really work on the action until I get the dampers working. Honestly, most of the keys work well enough that I can tolerate them - just a dozen or so need tweaking - and the amp works, so I will have a fairly useable piano if I can get this part sorted out.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
3
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Passive Electronics Question...
« Last post by groovemonkey73 on August 21, 2019, 02:21:52 AM »Thanks for the info and insight shmuelyosef,
Once I've got everything actually working, and got it to sound how I want, I'm keeping my options open as to then passive electronics against wired pre-amps and things, and the options of re-wiring. I want something that sounds good, gives a good output without noise, and something reliable when humping it about. I don't plan on using for too many gigs/outings, but when I do I don't want to have to 'fettle' it before hand!
Once I've got everything actually working, and got it to sound how I want, I'm keeping my options open as to then passive electronics against wired pre-amps and things, and the options of re-wiring. I want something that sounds good, gives a good output without noise, and something reliable when humping it about. I don't plan on using for too many gigs/outings, but when I do I don't want to have to 'fettle' it before hand!
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For Sale / Re: Rhodes 54 note for Sale - Melbourne Australia
« Last post by vcf4012 on August 19, 2019, 05:10:20 PM »Hi all,
Here's link to Rhodes listing on Reverb which has more pics:
https://rvrb.io/1980-mark-ii-54-no-15b3te
Thanks
Here's link to Rhodes listing on Reverb which has more pics:
https://rvrb.io/1980-mark-ii-54-no-15b3te
Thanks
5
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Help selecting tone pot capacitor for Rhodes Piano Bass
« Last post by cinnanon on August 17, 2019, 02:16:48 PM »Hi all, I have a December 1969 Piano bass (sparkle top) that i'm working on. My circuit differs from that found above. Here is mine vs. the one above. I don't know what the difference in sound would be, or which is superior. Mine looks original too. Looks like the tone pot is wired the same just reversed, but the volume pot is slightly different (tapers are different too).
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For Sale / Rhodes 54 note for Sale - Melbourne Australia
« Last post by vcf4012 on August 14, 2019, 09:31:00 PM »Hi all,
Long time reader first time poster.
1980 Rhodes Mark II 54 note stage piano in excellent condition.
15th week 1980
Complete with lid, legs and pedal.
One minor blemish on right end check block, small tear in tolex on front below keys and rip in tolex on lid.
Replaced the below items from Vintage Vibe in Dec 2016
Rear Logo
Tone Bar Clips
Balance Rail Felts
Front Rail Felts
Key Shims
Fender Rhodes Full Refurb Kit
2 x VV pickups and 3 Mk I pickups
Never gigged, home studio use only
Local pickup preferred.
Dimensions (approx.) - 90cm x 58cm x 25cm (35in x 23in x 10in)
Weight - approx 45kg (99lbs)
Will ship internationally via UPS. Buyer pays all shipping, insurance and customs costs.
Asking $AUD 3500
Can add more pics if people are interested.
Thanks,
Glen
Long time reader first time poster.
1980 Rhodes Mark II 54 note stage piano in excellent condition.
15th week 1980
Complete with lid, legs and pedal.
One minor blemish on right end check block, small tear in tolex on front below keys and rip in tolex on lid.
Replaced the below items from Vintage Vibe in Dec 2016
Rear Logo
Tone Bar Clips
Balance Rail Felts
Front Rail Felts
Key Shims
Fender Rhodes Full Refurb Kit
2 x VV pickups and 3 Mk I pickups
Never gigged, home studio use only
Local pickup preferred.
Dimensions (approx.) - 90cm x 58cm x 25cm (35in x 23in x 10in)
Weight - approx 45kg (99lbs)
Will ship internationally via UPS. Buyer pays all shipping, insurance and customs costs.
Asking $AUD 3500
Can add more pics if people are interested.
Thanks,
Glen
7
For Sale / Wurlitzer Model 200 For Sale $1,500 SOLD
« Last post by derekslam on August 14, 2019, 03:58:06 PM »Wurlitzer Model 200. I believe it's a 1973. Action is nice. Plays in tune. Includes legs and sustain pedal. I am selling it for less than market price because the vibrato only works intermittently. Local pickup only in Cape Canaveral, Fl.
Here is a link to a video demo of the Wurly.
https://youtu.be/yBPAJXJxqus
Thanks for looking.
Derek Bernard
321 208-5245
derekslam@aol.com
Here is a link to a video demo of the Wurly.
https://youtu.be/yBPAJXJxqus
Thanks for looking.
Derek Bernard
321 208-5245
derekslam@aol.com
8
Amps, Effects & Recording Techniques / Bugera V5 amp
« Last post by Andreu on August 13, 2019, 10:59:45 AM »Good afternoon all. This is my first post and my question is, has anyone tried out the Bugera V5 amp with a Rhodes stage and if so what are their thoughts ?. I recently acquired a Mark 1 and am looking for a suitable amp for home use exclusively. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
9
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Passive Electronics Question...
« Last post by shmuelyosef on August 12, 2019, 09:21:00 PM »I use the circuit below for my Fender-Rhodes Stage 73 (1974 vintage). I went to higher impedance to keep the loads higher on the pickups...gives a much cleaner, stronger signal than the original if you are going into a high impedance amplifier (I use an FMR Audio RNP-8380).
The potentiometers are Emerson "Short Solid Shaft" Audio Taper; I bought them through Sweetwater.
The capacitor is a high quality polypropylene thin film.
I also had a natty old circuit like yours that I had just short-circuited and was going straight into the RNP for years, but decided I wanted on-board volume and tone control again, so just rebuilt the whole thing. The Emersons fit the vintage knobs perfectly.
The full output of the Rhodes pickups was a little much for some "Drive" boxes that I like, and this let's me dial down the power without introducing noise.
The potentiometers are Emerson "Short Solid Shaft" Audio Taper; I bought them through Sweetwater.
The capacitor is a high quality polypropylene thin film.
I also had a natty old circuit like yours that I had just short-circuited and was going straight into the RNP for years, but decided I wanted on-board volume and tone control again, so just rebuilt the whole thing. The Emersons fit the vintage knobs perfectly.
The full output of the Rhodes pickups was a little much for some "Drive" boxes that I like, and this let's me dial down the power without introducing noise.
10
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Passive Electronics Question...
« Last post by groovemonkey73 on August 11, 2019, 01:27:54 PM »You must have been reading my mind, just picked up a 2nd hand Boss OD-3 to try through it!