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Hi EP forum, I need some advice on a Wurlitzer 200A that I have. The serial number is 107081L which I believe puts it at between 1968-72.

Some background:
I bought this from a church for pretty cheap about a year ago, knowing it hadn’t been used in a while. When I got it, the electronics worked as they should, and I recorded a few songs with it. Last November I took it to a friend who works on pianos to do some regulation to it, and I just got it back. He did a great job with the keys and the action but I’m still having issues with the electronics. I am adept at soldering and working on electronics (I build guitars and amps) so I’m trying to figure this out for myself.

When I turn the piano on, the vibrato works and the volume work but the sound is very fuzzy, almost like it’s going through a fuzz pedal. The sound is the same with the internal speakers, headphones and audio out. Most of the components on the board are original except for a few caps, so I went ahead and ordered a new preamp and deluxe board rebuild kit from Vintage Vibe that should be here this week.

Here’s where I need help:
This is my first time working on an EP of any kind. I am unsure exactly the grounding points are. I’ve attached pictures of how I have it grounded now, and I need someone to verify that it’s correct. I also need the full grounding explained to me for the piano.

So far I’ve tested points on the circuit and the caps seem to be relatively ok, the reed bar is getting +150v and the preamp is getting +15v. Is there anything else i need to be aware of before replacing the preamp and rebuilding the board? Is there something I’m missing?
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Dating a Wurlitzer
« Last post by cinnanon on Yesterday at 05:31:32 PM »
I think therein lies the confusion. You should have received some narrower damper felts for the higher notes. The website states Mid Felt: Keys 1-46, Treble Felt: Keys 47-55

What did you receive (or not receive) exactly?
I wonder when they'll start cloning electro-mechanical keyboards ;)
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Dating a Wurlitzer
« Last post by TimeAndTineAgain on Yesterday at 01:58:40 PM »
If you re read my comment it's about the size of the damper felts and not the amount of them.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Dating a Wurlitzer
« Last post by DocWurly on Yesterday at 09:52:04 AM »
?  A 700 should have the exact same damper felts as a 120.  Do you have something other than cut-away damper arms and a sustain brick on the top 11 notes?  This should be a separate thread.  Glad I could help.  Start a new thread and show us more of your instrument, please!
i got the 808. i love it except for it will occasionally skip playing a note in the sequence. if they fix that it's a winner
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer replacement amplifiers
« Last post by retro-mike on January 20, 2020, 06:00:14 PM »
Thanks for all the kind words Alan and Doc

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer replacement amplifiers
« Last post by Alan Lenhoff on January 20, 2020, 01:13:45 PM »
You take Tim Warneck's two electrical engineering degrees from Carnegie Mellon University, his great ears, and his determination to pursue perfection on behalf of his customers, and the results are as spectacular as you'd think.  Great staff, too. (I'm talking about you Mike Norton and Amanda Fitser, and probably others I don't know.)  Nice to see them getting some well-deserved praise here.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / New Jack Springs!
« Last post by DoctorTeeth on January 20, 2020, 12:21:45 PM »
My wurli was having issues off and on with key return and a few sluggish keys despite the fact I had torn the whole thing down a few times and protek’d the action centers, polished the key rail pins, eased the bushings I took the plunge and spent aprox 14? hours replacing all the jack springs with a new vvibe set, and holy crap! Its like a whole new piano! When I got this wurli it was more or less a cool looking doorstop, and was priced accordingly...someone had put long springs on all the sticker screws between the grommets and the stickers to try and make up for its majorly sluggish action...which i presume also put extra strain on the jack springs...i posted a photo of this about a year ago (the jack felts all surprisingly seem more or less fine)...might not be the fix for everyone, but man! Very worth all the effort. I also popped a new set of sticker grommets on there too, my sustain pedal action has never been sexier! Its a long laborious process but I couldn't be happier with the outcome. There is still one key that has slightly slow return with the sustain pressed, but i’m fairly certain it might just need some slight adjustment. If you keep chasing the slow action gremlin around your wurli it might just be the jack springs, in my case it most definitely was.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer replacement amplifiers
« Last post by DoctorTeeth on January 20, 2020, 11:55:40 AM »
I will weigh in on this on the retrolinear side. I put a ep200 in my 200 and just installed (two days ago) the vari vibe add on, and while i was at it i also installed their new transformer ac line shielding tube. You need a drill press to do it cleanly, but man is it clean. Mike at retro linear even spent quite a while on the phone with me talking about his preferred methods of install/cleaning up the wiring on the amp rail. Told me how to add an led and remove the neon (which i already had the parts to do in my spares bins (resistor, led, led bezel, wire and heat shrink)...and in this process i also drilled out a 1/2 inch hole in the upright rail that holds the pots to mount a chassis mount fuse holder...not only are their products top notch, and their customer service is on point, but this wurli is dead quiet at rest. 

The band I tech for carries a 200a that had been upgraded with the warneck amp/vari vibe and its been solid and totally reliable for the 4+ years  we have been shleppin it around North America and Canada. From what I understand the retrolinear amps are an actual redesign rather than a “lets try and make the old amp but new”, and its night and day if you are replacing the stock wurli amp... plus the ep200 kit comes with the reed shields too, and their version is very easy to install and requires no modifications to fit...their knobs are also much better looking too than the vvibe ones (ive got 2vv knobs on mine currently and one retrolinear/warneck...had i known that they looked so different i would have ordered two more knobs with my varivibe/shielding purchase...but since they spent so long on the phone with me chattin about clean wurli upgrades i didn't hesitate to drop the extra cash on the separate order of those knobs to make it all match...when/if i rebuild another wurlitzer i wouldn't hesitate to go warneck again.

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