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Also, I see that not all of the hammers are sitting square on the pedestals - some are off to one side such that they hang a bit over the edge. This is not something I can imagine is easy to adjust since it would likely mean adjusting the position of the action rail and since the adjustment would be quite small it would cause problems with the existing screw holes.


In fact this is actually quite easy to adjust.

First you need to remove the harp and remove the damper bar.

Next using a long screwdriver inbetween the damper comb arms  loosen the big machine screws which hold the aluminium action rail down to the keybed.

Next loosen the 2 big black nuts on each harp support.

Move the action rail and harp supports left or right and line  up the action rail with the majority of the pedestals until you are happy with each key then re-tighten.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Restoration newbie - 1975 MkI Stage
« Last post by Chi on Today at 03:49:33 PM »
The side to side key wobble is most likely from worn key bushings (the red felts that sandwich the pin). You definitely dont want them too tight as the keys will stick with humidity changes as the wood swells. There is a key bush tightening tool that compresses the wood back to size. If you have a lot of keys that are crazy sloppy you may want to consider rebushing.

Yes, you are right, there a a couple of keys that have some side wobble because the bushing felts have come apart but the ones with the bigger holes drilled have side to side and front to back wobble. I may need to investigate this bush tightener and a few keys will need rebushing.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Restoration newbie - 1975 MkI Stage
« Last post by jwc44 on Today at 03:05:53 PM »
The side to side key wobble is most likely from worn key bushings (the red felts that sandwich the pin). You definitely dont want them too tight as the keys will stick with humidity changes as the wood swells. There is a key bush tightening tool that compresses the wood back to size. If you have a lot of keys that are crazy sloppy you may want to consider rebushing.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Restoration newbie - 1975 MkI Stage
« Last post by Chi on Today at 02:39:35 PM »
This evening I finished cleaning all the glue and felt residue that was left on the underside of the hammers - thank you to Tim Hodges for the red spirit tip - worked a charm ;)

Now I have removed all the old punchings and felts from the front & balance rail and replaced them with new ones. This time the balance rail has the proper white felts. I will begin leveling and setting the dip tomorrow.

A couple of things I have noticed. Firstly there are a couple of keys that felt a bit loose compared to the rest. Sure enough when I checked the balance pin holes they were bigger than the others.



Also, I see that not all of the hammers are sitting square on the pedestals - some are off to one side such that they hang a bit over the edge. This is not something I can imagine is easy to adjust since it would likely mean adjusting the position of the action rail and since the adjustment would be quite small it would cause problems with the existing screw holes.

Some positive news is that adding paper punchings on the balance rail helps to remedy the hammers being so uneven when keys are depressed :)
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Lid Compartment Strap Snap
« Last post by Tines&Reeds on Today at 05:49:06 AM »
I found some of those parts in the sailing section of my DIY store.
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For Sale / Re: Rhodes Mark V---Rhode Island, USA
« Last post by piano1071 on Today at 03:48:13 AM »
You got mail!
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Lid Compartment Strap Snap
« Last post by OZDOC on Yesterday at 06:49:41 PM »

Here in Adelaide my starting point is usually a leather and saddlery supplier like this:
http://www.adelaideleather.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=24_26

David
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Restoration newbie - 1975 MkI Stage
« Last post by Chi on Yesterday at 02:40:16 PM »
Let me give you a hint:

You'll need 3/8" a lot... key dip, escapement, etc.

Did you know that the tine-body is 3/8" thick? You can take a tine for reference in many many cases! :-)

Aha! Thanks for the tip. It might be a good idea to unscrew a tine to use as a measure then - much easier than trying to squint out 9.5250mm on my ruler  ;D
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Restoration newbie - 1975 MkI Stage
« Last post by Chi on Yesterday at 02:38:12 PM »
I had escapement issues which is why I had to make thinner shims for the harp.  On my board I initially thought my key dip was a bit shallow at just under 3/8 and was going to shim the aluminum rails but once I screwed it back in and measured my keydip ended up somewhere over 3/8 and under 13/32 which feels nice to me.

I see - that sounds great! I have 8 wooden shims from ElectricKeys (4 x 1/32" & 4 x 1/16") so they may come in handy when I approach escapement.

Cheers JWC ;)
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It depends what you are looking for.

AFAIK the retroflyer has a sine-wave LFO while the original Peterson is more or less a square-wave with smooth ramps. So it's a different sound...
The VV preamp should go more into the Peterson-direction.
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