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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: How to save a bad tine?
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on March 16, 2019, 05:09:21 PM »That sounds right...
Recent Posts
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Ultrasonic cleaning of reeds
« Last post by cinnanon on March 16, 2019, 03:00:49 AM »I have some sort of residue on the reedbar around some of the bolts and some reeds. Looks like someone wiped oil on the whole things at one point also. I’m probably better off taking all the reeds off and running them through the sonics that way. I think the entire reedbar assembly would attenuate too much. Plus the sonic would have to be large.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206A general rebuild questions and advice
« Last post by beginnersluke on March 15, 2019, 09:24:59 PM »That certainly makes sense and I agree with the principle for sure. Part of the reason I asked is just that I don't have enough experience to know "this is good, but could be much better". In other words, it's fine, but what could I be missing out on. (I was also influenced by the fact that VV sells the whole set.)
To be honest, I've been surprised how good things have looked once taking the thing apart. It's been great fun too (so far, since I haven't broken anything yet. He he!)
I replaced one jack spring (key 64) to see how much more tension the new spring would have compared to the old one. There's a bit of a difference, but it's minimal. I really can't see a wholesale replacement being worth it, because it would be a huge pain as you've said. It does seem like just shrinking/lubricating those action parts is the way to go unless there's a big issue.
Thanks very much for the advice!
To be honest, I've been surprised how good things have looked once taking the thing apart. It's been great fun too (so far, since I haven't broken anything yet. He he!)
I replaced one jack spring (key 64) to see how much more tension the new spring would have compared to the old one. There's a bit of a difference, but it's minimal. I really can't see a wholesale replacement being worth it, because it would be a huge pain as you've said. It does seem like just shrinking/lubricating those action parts is the way to go unless there's a big issue.
Thanks very much for the advice!
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Torn out wood around t-nuts
« Last post by sean on March 15, 2019, 07:49:43 PM »Chapter three of the service manual is called Instructions for Disassembly:
http://www.fenderrhodes.com/org/manual/ch3.html
It is posted on the Super Site: http://www.fenderrhodes.com/
Sean
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Is leaving 200a plugged into mains a fire risk?
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on March 15, 2019, 06:32:47 PM »The only concern I have with leaving vintage keys plugged in all the time, (and modern digital too) are power surges. Especially during storms.
I always unplug my keyboards when not in use. My sister lost her digital piano to a power surge last year and has to buy a new one.
I always unplug my keyboards when not in use. My sister lost her digital piano to a power surge last year and has to buy a new one.
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206A general rebuild questions and advice
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on March 15, 2019, 06:29:34 PM »I agree 1000%
Don't replace parts that are working fine. Replacing jack springs ( a whole set) would be a royal pain in the arse!
Don't replace parts that are working fine. Replacing jack springs ( a whole set) would be a royal pain in the arse!
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Torn out wood around t-nuts
« Last post by funkminster on March 15, 2019, 02:24:33 PM »Thanks for the advice. Intuitively, taking the piano apart sounds harrowing, but it's good to hear it's not that bad. Found a video from Vintage Vibe that should help.
Will let you all know how it goes!
Will let you all know how it goes!
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For Sale / Vintage Synthesizer Collection
« Last post by Cory@CME on March 15, 2019, 01:51:20 PM »Hey everyone, I'm sitting on a pretty sizable collection of vintage synths. The following are available and prices include shipping within the continental US.
Rhodes 73 Mk.2 - $1,899
Yamaha CS60 (beautiful condition) - $5,950 (She's heavy!)
Yamaha CS40M - $2,350
Prophet 600 - $1,350
Juno 60 - $2,300
Please reach out with any questions : ) Pics coming soon!
Rhodes 73 Mk.2 - $1,899
Yamaha CS60 (beautiful condition) - $5,950 (She's heavy!)
Yamaha CS40M - $2,350
Prophet 600 - $1,350
Juno 60 - $2,300
Please reach out with any questions : ) Pics coming soon!
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Buying / Re: WTB: Vintage 70’s or 80’s synthesizers
« Last post by Cory@CME on March 15, 2019, 01:37:02 PM »Hey there! I know these aren't on your list but... I have a ton of great vintage synths and keys I'm looking to unload. Let me know if you'd like any additional info/pics of the following:
- Rhodes Seventy Three Stage Piano Mk. 1
- Rhodes Seventy Three Stage Piano Mk. 2
- Yamaha CS40M
- Yamaha CS60 (amazing condition!)
- Roland Juno 60
- Sequential Prophet 600
Thanks!
- Rhodes Seventy Three Stage Piano Mk. 1
- Rhodes Seventy Three Stage Piano Mk. 2
- Yamaha CS40M
- Yamaha CS60 (amazing condition!)
- Roland Juno 60
- Sequential Prophet 600
Thanks!
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: 206A general rebuild questions and advice
« Last post by DocWurly (formerly Paleophone) on March 15, 2019, 11:58:08 AM »My general response to your questions is:
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Damper grommets intact? Leave them. (It's great to have some on hand in case old ones break, and that does happen.)
Damper felts damping the reeds OK? Leave them. If they aren't lined up nicely, it MAY be because someone found that a couple of reeds damped better if they moved the damper felts. Also, make sure you keep the damper arms (and hammer arms) in order. The damper felts have probably worn into their current location, and that's _good_. Relocating them may make them work less well.
You're much more likely to have a problem with the felt on some hammers if they've worn out or hardened. (The 1950's model damper felts are pretty much always going to be rotted out, though. That's the 110, 111, 112, 112A 120, 700.)
I've never replaced the jack springs unless they were actively broken, and then I just replaced the whole action part.
I've never polished the reed bar, and I wouldn't, even on a rusty one, unless you've spent an intensive time understanding how every tightened screw of the instrument affects everything else. If you polish where the reeds/reed screws are attached, you run a very high risk of ruining the flat contact point and messing up the sustain of the whole instrument. You could also throw off the shimming of the reed bar if you polish the contact points between it, the white plastic spacers, and the body.
etc etc.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Damper grommets intact? Leave them. (It's great to have some on hand in case old ones break, and that does happen.)
Damper felts damping the reeds OK? Leave them. If they aren't lined up nicely, it MAY be because someone found that a couple of reeds damped better if they moved the damper felts. Also, make sure you keep the damper arms (and hammer arms) in order. The damper felts have probably worn into their current location, and that's _good_. Relocating them may make them work less well.
You're much more likely to have a problem with the felt on some hammers if they've worn out or hardened. (The 1950's model damper felts are pretty much always going to be rotted out, though. That's the 110, 111, 112, 112A 120, 700.)
I've never replaced the jack springs unless they were actively broken, and then I just replaced the whole action part.
I've never polished the reed bar, and I wouldn't, even on a rusty one, unless you've spent an intensive time understanding how every tightened screw of the instrument affects everything else. If you polish where the reeds/reed screws are attached, you run a very high risk of ruining the flat contact point and messing up the sustain of the whole instrument. You could also throw off the shimming of the reed bar if you polish the contact points between it, the white plastic spacers, and the body.
etc etc.