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91
For Sale / For Sale: Rhodes Mark V with stand - San Mateo, CA
« Last post by clementc3 on January 25, 2021, 07:34:22 PM »
For sale, a hard-to-find Rhodes Mark V Stage 73 with the even harder-to-find Rhodes stand. Listing on craigslist is here:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/msg/d/burlingame-fender-rhodes-mark-stage-73/7267817310.html

I tried to attach photos but it doesn't seem to be working. Photos are available on the craigslist ad.

Asking $4,000 on craigslist, negotiable particularly for a forum member. It's too heavy to ship, so local pickup only.

92
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Identify this Wurlitzer
« Last post by jam88 on January 25, 2021, 04:18:35 PM »
It's a 720 or 726(?)--   https://www.tropicalfishvintage.com/blog/2020/5/29/from-the-archives-wurlitzer-726

Hey Alan Lenhoff, that's Joey Dosik, from Ann Arbor's own Vulfpeck and My Dear Disco!!
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Identify this Wurlitzer
« Last post by Jonah s on January 25, 2021, 02:51:17 PM »
Can someone help me?

https://youtu.be/3BV21HOn_M4
I love the sound of this Wurlitzer but I am having trouble identifying it. It looks to have the top half of a 120 but also has a wooden suitcase cabinet, never seen anything like it before.

Thanks for any information you can give me. (Great band if you haven’t heard them already)
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Homemade electric piano
« Last post by gotkovsky on January 25, 2021, 04:27:16 AM »
Thanks epluznante for the kind words, it's nice to see that someone else is trying to build an homemade ep too! What is the material that you used for your reeds? And could you post photos of the actions that you put together? Is it a reproduction of the Wurly action or did you came-up with something new? Making action parts is probably the most challenging part of the project, as it's really small and needs to be precisely made. I found that cutting the recesses accurately (in the whippen assembly for example) in which the flanges will fit is the most difficult task, as it was probably made with custom machinery by action parts manufacturer. For now I'm cutting those recesses with the table saw and clean them with chisels and files, but I'm not 100% satisfied with the results as some parts have too much side-to-side play when assembled with the flanges. I still need to try to cut these with a router and a custom jig made for this very purpose.

Ideally these recesses should look like this (I took this image from someone of this forum who 3D-modeled an entire Wurly, hope it's ok):



That could be done with a router and a special plunge bit, but I couldn't find anything like this anywhere, so personnally I'm just cutting them flat and it works ok.

For reeds I had the best results with XC100 spring steel which I bought in 5m roll, it's basically feeler gauge material, and it sounds good even if it's cut quite roughly. Don't hesitate to ask for anything if you need to, I'll be happy to help!

So back to the project, right now I've prepared 12 actions:


I'm actually not sure to use these as I'm not completely happy about how they turned out, I'm might redo some parts again with another method involving a router to cut the whip assembly recesses.

Then I worked on the balance and front rails:


The front rail is quite easy to make, the balance rail is more difficult as there's 3 bevel cuts in the same piece. But it's doable with a table saw, a featherboard and patience.

Then cutting 12 keys:


I'm also not quite sure about my method for making the keyboard, as it turned out to be not perfect at the end, but I'm pretty close. The traditional way of making a keyboard is to glue several boards with the grain running in the width, draw the layout of the keys and mortises on this glue-up, then clamping or nailing the whole keyboard to the keybed with the front and balance rails also attached to the keybed, drill all the holes in the keys and the rails at the same time, and then cutting all keys separately. This way the locations of the pivot pins in the rails are pretty much perfect. I chose to do it differently as I don't have a good way to cut the keys accurately from such a big piece. So I chose to cut each key one by one, and then glue them together (using non-permanent glue) with 1 mm shims between them (and 2 mm between the end of the sharps where they meet the naturals):



Then I positioned the assembled keys in the keybed on top of the rails, and I punched the holes positions into the rails using a 4 mm nail, which is what i'm using as the pins by the way.

Next I removed the keyboard and the rails from the keybed and drilled 3,5 mm holes in the rails, using the divets left in the rails by the previous operation:



And finally placed the keys on the rails, and added keytops to each one of them to lock them in their best positions:



I'm of course simplifying here, I'm not talking about how to cut mortises and gluing felt in the mortises, so if anyone needs informations on that, once again, don't hesitate.

So this method for making the keyboard turned out to be pretty ok but definitely not perfect. A few keys on the right part of the keyboard don't sit completely straight (there's a 1 to 2 mm difference in parallelism from the front rail to the end of the keys for the last 4 keys). But I think I know why: when positioning the assembled keys with shims on top of the rails, I also positioned two scrap pieces as spacers on both sides of the keybed, which also acted as wedges to lock the keyboard in place. These two spacers' width where cut according to my 3d plans at 23 mm, but in reality they didn't fit perfectly on the sides and I had to force them too hard to do so, which had the effect of compressing the keys between them, as wood (and paper shims) have a bit of elasticity in this grain direction. And that probably misplaced a few of the pins locations. I also have to be more careful when punching the pins holes in the rails through the keys, using a self-centering punch tool would be also better than a nail.
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Other Keyboards & Software Synths / Re: Homemade electric piano
« Last post by epluznante on January 24, 2021, 09:19:27 PM »
Wow! incredible this thing sounds amazing!
Also: I love you
I was hoping to see something like this. your example gives me hope :)     ---I always dreamed of being able to do a similar project. Where I live it is practically impossible to get an electric piano. There is no offer and to buy internationally paying the shipping costs is IMPOSSIBLE.
I have studied the plans of rhodes, wurlitzer and hohner thinking of different combinations of action + pickups + reeds. I tried building a wooden action with a poor version of pickups (and even a guitar pu) and I tried different materials for the resonant parts but didn't like the result and was losing hope at this point

because I have not found examples on the internet of a good sounding diy EP... so ... finding your project really gave me hope!
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The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / 200 Series Transistors
« Last post by theseacowexists on January 24, 2021, 07:36:51 PM »
Does anyone know what the original transistors in the 200 amp are? The schematics only give "Wurlitzer Part Numbers" and I can't seem to find the actual specs on the originals or equivalents.
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Backrail felt: how thick can you go?
« Last post by sean on January 24, 2021, 04:46:27 PM »

There are two ways I think that thick backrail felt could be done:

Carve a groove in the case for the felt with a router.  (For the plastic-key Rhodes that don't have a keybed.)

or

Install the thick felt, and sand down the back end of the keysticks to compensate.


I have had the courage to test neither.

Sean
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Backrail felt: how thick can you go?
« Last post by goldphinga on January 24, 2021, 03:38:04 PM »
Thick back rail felt is the secret sauce I use. But you have to also mod the entire rest of the action. The results make any Rhodes play better than ever before. But you have to REALLY know your stuff to make it work. Once you crack it, there’s no going back...
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Delay Pedal
« Last post by ummagumma on January 23, 2021, 11:00:03 PM »
fwiw I have used

Eventide Timefactor
Carl Martin Delayla
Fulltone Tube Tape Echo

with my MK1 and they all worked well
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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Backrail felt: how thick can you go?
« Last post by ummagumma on January 23, 2021, 10:58:31 PM »
that is a good tip!! thanks
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