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The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Identification
« Last post by EauClaireGuy on December 21, 2018, 10:37:29 AM »
Can I get an identification on this Rhodes? Ive never seen one like this. Unless its completely custom.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: First wurli, first post, first problem
« Last post by whitcombia on December 20, 2018, 08:41:39 AM »
i know this is an old thread, but for the record, i had this problem because the harp was not level.  with harp screws loose, make sure the harp is stable, ie does not rock back and forth, before tightening the screws down.  if not, put a front rail shim or 2 under the plastic washers until it's stable and all reeds sound good, then tighten 'er down.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Question regarding glue on miracle mod
« Last post by goldphinga on December 19, 2018, 03:33:08 PM »
I use a gel based super glue for the bumps, its allows greater maneuverability and control over the amount applied/thickness compared to normal superglue. I use contact cement for the felt. Its a great combo, no issues.

The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Question regarding glue on miracle mod
« Last post by pnoboy on December 19, 2018, 11:18:31 AM »
PVC-E glue is still available from Schaff and Pianotek--probably other sources as well, but I didn't check.
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Price of 200A When New?
« Last post by dnarkosis on December 19, 2018, 10:00:38 AM »
FWIW back in 2006, I responded to a similar thread here about Rhodes prices:

On April 16, 1979 (still have the receipt), I bought a Suitcase 73 in Atlanta (with the silverface slider preamp):

$985.00 + $39.40 tax
$1024.40 total
The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Price of 200A When New?
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on December 19, 2018, 07:47:08 AM »
That sounds right to me. I’m pretty sure just the piano didn’t go above or much above $600.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Question regarding glue on miracle mod
« Last post by pianotuner steveo on December 19, 2018, 07:45:41 AM »
I’m pretty sure PVC-E is no longer made. Contact cement works for the felt, but can be messy.
I agree with Sean. Working on a Rhodes outside of the case is vastly different from working on a grand piano action outside of a piano. You need the case to do this work. There is a jig for grand pianos but not for Rhodes to set action parameters outside of the piano. Plus, you need something to attach the harp supports and the keybed to, so it’s much easier to leave it in. Maybe remove it to clean out the case, then put everything back before working on the action and harp.
The Fender Rhodes Electric Piano / Re: Restoring and removing keybed outside the case
« Last post by sean on December 18, 2018, 10:11:53 PM »
You can leave it in the case to do the grommets, dampers, tips, and felts.  I prefer to be able to check my progress as I work, so it is nice to keep it mostly assembled.  Do ten grommets, play a little.  Do ten more, play a little. The hammer tips or damper felts have to be done as a whole batch so the glue can dry, so you don't get to play as you work.  But the grommet job involves re-setting the escapement and voicing, so it is nice to have the piano in playing order.

You will probably take the cheek blocks, action, and harp out of the case to do the tolex job.  If you are going to repair the case, you would take all that out, and remove the harp supports. 

You get to decide what order you want to do the work.   You could get it playable now, then wait until summertime to build a new case and do the new tolex. 

It is probably a good idea to do a very thorough inspection and assessment of the bottom of the case.  You should be able to get a good look at things by simply removing the keys and the damper release bar.  Since the case is broken, and the tolex is ratty, I would suspect that there is water damage.  If there is no water damage, then your Rhodes may have been dropped.  If the bottom of the case isn't water damaged, or cracked, or warped, then I think you should do your best to keep it.  Bondo and epoxy can do amazing repairs.  If it can't be re-used, save it as a template to locate and drill the mounting holes for the action rail, keybed, and harp supports in your new case.

I assume that you already know about the service manual on the Super Site at

Post some photos of the piano, and especially of the added electronics.

The Wurlitzer Electric Piano / Re: Wurlitzer 206a - To chop or not to chop?
« Last post by Jtrunzo7743 on December 18, 2018, 03:36:19 PM »
I've got a 215v that I'm planning that above chop. I've done it with wooden dowels and plan next to do it with piano balance rail pins to keep it tight. Never seen the pedal and legs idea inside though, thats very clever.

If you're planning the chop, make sure to put a 8ohm load on that speaker output when you disconnect the speakers. otherwise you'll learn the hard way like I did. I have a 206a that disconnects only for movement and you can't tell the difference when its together or apart that it comes into two pieces.
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