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Bottom Capstan Screw

Started by seanny_keys, May 07, 2019, 08:09:22 AM

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seanny_keys

Hello my fellow electric keys enthusiasts,

I am trying to understand the proper setting for the bottom capstan screws on the 200a. Based on the manual it seems like the the bottom capstan screw should be set so each key has 1/32" of wiggle at the tip of the key when resting (Lost Motion Traveling Depth).

Am I understanding this correctly?

Does anyone have a good technique for setting this? E.g. measuring each key's traveling depth with a ruler vs. adjusting to the right feel.

Thanks,
Seanny

pianotuner steveo

It does not have to be perfect as long as it is close, and there is a little lost motion. If it's too high, the hammer/whip assembly will start to rise up. If that happens, back the capstan down again until there is a tiny gap between the tip of the jack and the whip felt. If it's too tight, the jack won't always return to it's starting position again.

This normally doesn't need much adjustment unless someone has messed with it. The other capstan (letoff adjustment) is far more critical.
1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
1980 Wurlitzer 270 Butterfly Grand
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

seanny_keys

Okay great makes perfect sense to me, thanks!

I think I may have one or two keys towards the bottom end that are too tight and not falling back into position.

funkylaundry

What I usually do is I hold the hammer in place with a finger so it doesn't move and then I lightly press the key with my other hand and see how much the key moves before it's obstructed by the hammer. I don't actually measure it - I just make sure that each key has a "little bit of wiggle" before the hammer moves anywhere.
'72 Fender Rhodes MkI Stage, '73 Wurlitzer 200, '72 Clavinet D6, '75 Hammond B-3, '71 Leslie 147, Hammond X5, Leslie 710, Nord Stage 2 73SW, Moog Sub 37, DSI Mopho X4, DSI Tetra

DocWurly

The important thing is that the fly resets when you stop depressing the key.  So, watch the base of the fly when you slowly release the key back up.  It should "pop" up, back into place, at the end of the key's returning.  On the other hand, you don't want excessive lost motion--just enough to allow that to happen.

If there isn't enough lost motion, rapid playing of a note will result in the hammer not hitting the reed every time, after the first play.

pianotuner steveo

BTW, Fly = jack. Nobody calls the jack the fly anymore, but that is what it is called in the service manuals.
1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
1980 Wurlitzer 270 Butterfly Grand
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

DocWurly