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1967 Student Rhodes Questions/Comments/Concerns

Started by TimeAndTineAgain, January 05, 2020, 02:53:27 PM

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TimeAndTineAgain

Excuse any misused terminology, been playing 2 years, just now decided to get into repairing my keys.

I've got a chopped 67' rhodes I'm getting ready to do some tuning adjustments, voicing etc. Over the years it's been fine but I left it sitting at a buddies and I think he tinkered with a couple bass tone bars. Also any info on hammer tips, replacement, mods, etc.

Either way, to start I'll include some pictures, and maybe we can talk about the key pedestal in regards to a bump mod, hum, tone bar alignment and adjusting strike line for soft bass notes.

Thanks for the help.


Student Rhodes

From the appearances, the pedestal already has a bump on it, no?

TimeAndTineAgain

Of sorts, it isn't an aftermarket bump. They are actually in the wood. This isn't a bump mod kit.

Student Rhodes

I understand, but the factory function is the same.
Are you unhappy with the action you're getting?

TimeAndTineAgain

If I weren't exactly happy with the quickness of its action would you have another recommendation for me?

mainly posted to educate on the different key pedestals as most folks I've talked to aren't familiar. Does your sparkle top have the bump?

To me, I get what they were attempting, and it's fine. But it seems in 51 years we figured out the bump could be a little bigger.

Get back to me about yours, feel free to include some pictures! In my opinion the action is relative to what you're playing. IMO it's one fast rhodes, but, also in a way losing its dynamic. And does have some double striking issues

Student Rhodes

None of my student models have a factory bump, but I do have a sparkle top that has a metal clip with a factory bump that clips on the on the key ped.
I'll try to get a photo.

TimeAndTineAgain

Having "a bump" and having "the bump mod" to me are 2 totally different things. It appears you were confused about the factory bump in this 67' so I'm glad you were able to compare them to yours and notice the differences! Because again, a lot changed in 51 years. Attempting something briefly, and giving it up is a sure sign for a lacking attempt at fixing an issue! LUCKILY we've had great minds, I'm sure some with engineering backgrounds like myself, who have found little hacks outside of what the Rhodes techs left us with.

Matt

The Real MC

Quote from: Student Rhodes on February 20, 2020, 02:26:42 PM
None of my student models have a factory bump, but I do have a sparkle top that has a metal clip with a factory bump that clips on the on the key ped.
I'll try to get a photo.

from my webpage http://www.analoguediehard.com/studio/keyboards/fender_rhodes


TimeAndTineAgain

Awesome!

What's this come out of? I bet they found it easier throwing a clip on bump rather than integrating the bump in the manufacturing of the key pedestals themselves.

How does your rhodes handle double striking? Teardrop hammers?

Thanks for sharing!

Matt

The Real MC

Quote from: TimeAndTineAgain on February 20, 2020, 08:00:19 PMWhat's this come out of? I bet they found it easier throwing a clip on bump rather than integrating the bump in the manufacturing of the key pedestals themselves.

These are in my 1967 sparkletop piano

QuoteHow does your rhodes handle double striking? Teardrop hammers?

Previous owner had swapped out the teardrop hammer set for wood/plastic from early 70s piano.  The service manual recommends this if the felt hammers wear out.

Wood/plaster hammers in a 60s sparkletop is a lovely combination.  I get everything from fusion bark to bell tone.  The square resonators from the 60s do have a unique sound, as do the pickups.  I discovered that the pickup can saturate, so with optimum positioning I can saturate the pickup with hard playing which imparts a pleasant thump transient to the sound.

To get the best tone out of it I used a DI right off the harp assembly.

I had a '76 Rhodes when I got that sparkletop and tried the same techniques - nowhere near the same sound.  I sold the '76.

TimeAndTineAgain

Wow! Great information!

And yes I think my old girl is headed for a hammer replacement but I'm dreading the price tag I'm bound to pay.

Hoping to make her last as long as I can.

I do love the rhodes "mutts" I've heard, I'm sure yours has a very unique tone. I'm partial to changing but I know I'll have to.

Were the parts from the summer or winter? Wonder if they used clips at the end of 67'-68'

Still having a tough time figuring out the proper tonebar, tine, pickup positioning but I'm getting there!

Its bitter sweet my student is chopped from the base but I do love that right off the harp tone.

Matt

Student Rhodes

If you plan on keeping the Student Model, you may want to look into designing and making a pedastal base. 
The T-nuts are there, waiting for something to be attached.  Then you'd be able to attach some kind of damper pedal.
I look at butchered Rhodes pianos as a great opportunity to personalize with some custom work.
The only thing holding me back on a couple projects is finances...
Best,
Ray

TimeAndTineAgain

Ray,
Definitely no plans of getting rid of it. This ones a keeper. Might get rid of my 57' Wurli 700 at some point. You know there's a legend of a man in Vegas who collects rhodes, plans on having a museum of some sorts, and I hope to possibly make a mold off the base of one of his. On the plus side, it fits in a road case and easy to gig/record with. Fortunately it's just a hole in the bottom for the rod to push the damper rail in this old student so in a pinch I use the same pedal I use from my Hammond Rt3->Ct3 Frankenstein chop. The only reason I dont make a base is because it'll definitely be hard to have the same flavor as the top half with out butchering it. Was maybe thinking of throwing some suitcase legs on it 🤣