News:

Follow us on Twitter for important announcements and outage notices.

Main Menu

fix for damper rail pins always falling out? ( rhodes )

Started by 73key boogie, February 05, 2020, 12:11:14 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

73key boogie


the two 2" pins that hold my damper rail in ( at each end ) keep sliding out and falling into the inside of the rhodes, getting lost

I am afraid to move the thing. actually one of them is inside somewhere, and I can't find it :D

is there a common fix for this? I can't imagine all the touring musicians of the past 50 years having to deal with this?

I almost want to get a single long piece of rod instead, running the width of the chassis. but it would be tough to install

thanks!

ps it is a MK IA from 1971, stage model

Tim Hodges

There should be a plate held in by 2 screws either side of the damper bar which prevent the pins from moving. Are these missing?
Bristol Electric Piano
UK

Facebook
YouTube
Reverb.com

73key boogie


thanks!

I believe there are 2 plates on the damper bar, that hold a guide/tube the pins fit into

but the pins spin freely inside them, and slide out all the time

I'll take a couple pics

maybe it's possible to tighten them? I never thought of that assumed there was something ( missing ) that held them, on the other side of the wooden harp supports

73key boogie

 you know, since the pins go right through the end blocks, I wonder why they didn't just use a clip that slides through a hole in the pins to keep them from sliding inward?

anyway, here are pics of mine. the right side I jammed a pencil in there, until I can find where that pin is, inside the keyboard!









Tim Hodges

Those plates should be under the lip of the damper rail. Insert them first then screw the other side in.
Bristol Electric Piano
UK

Facebook
YouTube
Reverb.com

73key boogie


!!!

wow! that makes a lot of sense, and explains everything. I was knocking my brains trying to figure out why they'd build it like that

someone must have pulled them off at some point, and reinstalled them incorrectly

unless they came that way from the factory?

bizarre.

I can't find the other pin, but I know it's jammed inside somewhere. argh

Thanks Tim!!

73key boogie


you can see in the pics, where those plates are getting stressed & will eventually break, without the support on that edge

pablotiburcio

Quote from: 73key boogie on February 08, 2020, 02:58:52 PMyou know, since the pins go right through the end blocks, I wonder why they didn't just use a clip that slides through a hole in the pins to keep them from sliding inward?

anyway, here are pics of mine. the right side I jammed a pencil in there, until I can find where that pin is, inside the keyboard!










Hello Fiesta Red,
Could you explain what this central metal pin is? My piano doesn't have this piece
Thank you!

AA

I'm not the original poster, but the center pin allows you to pre set the damper rail tension, I have also read it is necessary for proper function to keep the rail from flexing but that has not been the case in my experience and it doesn't really make sense to me since it is in pretty much the same spot as where the sustain pedal rod pushes and the rail is quite stiff. I currently have it not installed on my 1973 as I need to fill and re drill the screw hole for it, to keep it from pushing the damper arms near it off center.
Later pianos don't have it. Not sure about the exact cutoff date, it's on my 1973 and 1974, not on my 1977 or 1980. I'm guessing it was removed when the action rail and harp supports were switched to aluminum so maybe around mid 1975.

As for the original post, the side pins shouldn't spin and should be clamped down by the little metal bracket with 2 screws, make sure the screws are not cross threaded so you can tighten them properly, and I've seen the brackets bent a bit so they can make better contact with the pins. the missing pin will probably only reveal itself after removing the keys/action from the case, happened to me, looked everywhere, then it magically appeared once I took the action out. Is that angled cut on the left side of the damper rail factory? All the ones I've seen were straight, which causes the low tines to hit it when you have good escapement and strike line. I did a cutout similar to the late style damper rails on one of them, and will probably do the same to the other.
1973 stage 73
1974 stage 88
1980 stage 73
Wurlitzer 700