145 and 140B vs 200A decision

[FullyD]

I have a 145 and 140B. Both look pretty nice and sound just ok. A lot of noise (static/popping) is heard when the vol/vib knobs are touched. They both have grounded plugs. I gig and record and they aren't up to my standard. Local repair shops are not an option. Had my hammond tech look at them both and he got them sounding better but still not great.  I am trying to decide if I should ship these off to a quality shop (from charlotte) which will be pricey, sell them both or try to swap them both for a 200a. I love the look of the 140's and the tone but the ease of repairs and/or replacement pairs for a 200 is nice. Thoughts if you were in my shoes?

[Alan Lenhoff]

Your 140B has the potential to be the best Wurli you'll ever play. Great tone, action and optical tremolo. Its only downside (other than weight) is that the amp tends to be hissy. After a little work on mine, I had no use for my 200A, and sold it. I've never missed it. 

Time for a road trip to a tech?

Alan

[pianotuner steveo]

I agree with Alan. The 140 and 145 both are preferred over the 200A by most people as long as weight isn't an issue and the electronics are working at their best. I would choose whichever one you think plays better, but I would bet that they are similar. The 140B  amp may be easier to repair, but the amp isn't as loud as a tube amp.

I definitely would not sell them to get a 200A. If gigging is an issue, (weight) use a digital for live shows.

[FullyD]

I agree with you both that the 200a isn't as good. It's not a weight issue...I move the Hammond for every gig. BTW, the 145 might not be a 145 (i don't know) no serial plate but it has a tube amp. I was told it was a 149...never heard of a 149 so I figure they were wrong. <u options (as gar as I know) are shipping it to either PA or Jersey for repairs which is super pricey. Not aware of any good places closer. Driving is 8 hours each way. Then there's replacing reeds or parts (if they break) which is not easy once the piano is in good order. I wish I new electronics but I don't. I really want the tube piano but sheezz, I'm in a pickle. The 200a starts looking like my only option.

[Alan Lenhoff]

Yes, you could buy a 200A, but wouldn't it likely need some work, too?  I would not let that 140B slip away from you! It's a very special piano.  If you still have any interest in fixing it, a couple of suggestions:

-- Call Retrolinear to discuss your piano's issues.  You've not been specific about what you find lacking in the piano's performance, but it's possible you could mail your amp to them, and that any action/regulation work necessary could be done by an acoustic piano tech in your area, using the Wurli manual as a guide.

--  I will send you by personal message contact info for a vintage keys tech located about 90 minutes from Charlotte. I have never used him for Wurli work, but I am well-acquainted with him, and have no hesitation in recommending him for his integrity, and his skills on other instruments.  He does service Wurlis, both electronically and mechanically. You may want to call him and discuss what he could do for you.

By the way, the reeds on the 140B are the same as the Model 200 reeds, so replacing them would not be a problem.

Alan

[pianotuner steveo]

There was no model 149. It could be a 140 or 145. Pictures may help us to identify it.

[DocWurly]

If it has a 145 amp, It could be a 145, a 145A, 145B, or a 146 (the student model).

Each of these is different.

The 145 (circa 1962-3) has reeds that are more or less identical to the 1950's models, except for the bass register.  it has a unique sound.  I suspect that the Seeds' "Pushing Too Hard" is a 145.

The 145A (1963-4?) debuts new reeds (more or less like the 200's, and compatible with them) and terrible reed screw washers that crack and need to be replaced.  If the reed screws are replaced and the amp is recapped, these can be fantastic.

The 145B (1965? 1966-7, 1968?) is basically a tube version of the 140B.  In most but not all cases, the knobs will be on the cheek block (not the cover) and the dampers won't cover the reed screws.  These are as classic as the 140Bs (IMO).

[pianotuner steveo]

Wow, IVe never heard anyone else besides me try to guess what exact EP was used on " Pushing too Hard" by the Seeds. Most people don't even remember the song. That's a good guess, I'd say...

[cinnanon]

That's a good guess, I'd say...

Yeah that's what i'd say

 

[fromthepuggle]

So I'm comparing wurli models to make a purchase, and trying to figure out which is best for me. There's a 140b near me, and it's a good price. Seems a lot of folks on this forum think the 140b is one of the best Wurlis made. I'd be using it for studio purposes, so I'm not concerned with weight. This one has an aux out. I'm not terribly concerned with action either, I grew up playing a very spongy Rhodes, but I'm very much interested in the best possible sound, particularly looking for a nice 'bark'.

How does the 140b compare to others in terms of sound? Why do people say it could be 'the best'? It's not a tube model, if I'm correct. Thoughts?

[pianotuner steveo]

BUY IT!

The 140 series action is the best action they ever made. Electronics can be fixed or replaced if need be.

"Bark" is partly a result of signal processing in studio situations.