Damper Release Bar - damper felt question

[MufoCo]

Hello everyone - first time poster here. I am in the middle of restoring a 1975 Rhodes Mark I (part wooden hammers). I've replaced the damper arms, damper felts, and some of the worn (green) bridle straps with new (red) straps. When I put the harp and damper release bar back on, I notice the damper release bar works smoothly, and gives sustain to all the keys.

The problem is when I release the sustain pedal, the notes do not mute at a consistent time. I've noted that the damper arms to which I replaced the bridle straps are slightly higher. I understand it's not a good idea to bend the damper arms behind the spot where the bridle strap attaches.

I'd like advice on how to solve this.

Is it essential that all the damper arms are uniform height behind the tooth? I'm hesitant to replace all the old bridle straps because when I replaced the few that I did, I broke some of the plastic "jaws" into which the folded end of the strap was seated. I thought about buying new hammer assemblies with the old green straps still on, and taking out the hammer assemblies to which I changed the bridle straps.

Is it just a matter of bending the damper arm in front of the tooth so that the damper felts engage simultaneously?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[MufoCo]

Hi all - I've replaced the damper rail felt and replaced some of the red straps with green ones. The problem on the remaining keys is the damper rail arm behind the point where it attaches to the bridle strap on the late damping felts is slightly higher than neighboring damper arms. Making small adjustments by bending the damper arms behind the point with some success.