Brightening up the sound on an early 70s Rhodes.

Started by leon-, July 12, 2011, 04:59:40 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

leon-


Hi, just a quick post to ask if any of you had any ideas about the best way to 'brighten' up a Fender Rhodes (1973) going through a Bassman. I've tried keeping the Mid and Bass frequencies low on the amp as well as using a preamp but it didn't brighten the sound as much as I'd like. Appreciate that a lot of it is down to personal taste - however if any of you can suggest either pedals that could help or modifications then that'd be great. Im not an expert - but I've ordered the miracle mod and have opened up the instrument a few times and gone through a few you tube vids, so would be comfortable in a couple of tasks like moving pickups etc. I did think of this but figured that it would make the sound louder not really sharper.

Thanks.

Cormac Long

Try amping from harp direct to amp to bypass any passive stage controls. The tone thats sourced that way is much cleaner to work with. If you're using a suitcase or rail pre-amp, either bypass that or use the accessory "1" jack.

On the amp, depending on how the EQ works, try to leave the bass alone or only slightly reduced and raise the mids to see if you can get a brighter sound. Treble may also have an impact here, given that its a bass amp. It all depends on the frequency ranges of the EQ TBH.

With My 1975 I find that simple mid/treble EQ changes are enough to get a brighter sound. I'm not using a bassman.. rather a separate preamp, mixer and monitors.

Also note that the piano voicing plays a very important role here. If the tines are as little as a few mms above the pickups, you will be so much into the fundamental tone that it will muddy itself defeating any chances for bell. If you haven't done so already, it might be good to pick a few notes in the middle register and voice see if this gets a difference.

Assuming the escapement is already OK, you need only tighten the inner screw, playing the note until it hits the overtone (harmonic) range. Then untighten it a little so you just fall back into fundamental. You're at a sweet spot then where you'll have the best tone.

Regards,
   Cormac

Forum Administrator
admin@ep-forum.com

Twitter LinkedIn

Dan Belcher

Quote from: dresdner353 on July 12, 2011, 07:16:37 AMAlso note that the piano voicing plays a very important role here. If the tines are as little as a few mms above the pickups, you will be so much into the fundamental tone that it will muddy itself defeating any chances for bell. If you haven't done so already, it might be good to pick a few notes in the middle register and voice see if this gets a difference.

Assuming the escapement is already OK, you need only tighten the inner screw, playing the note until it hits the overtone (harmonic) range. Then untighten it a little so you just fall back into fundamental. You're at a sweet spot then where you'll have the best tone.
This is a huge, huge aspect of it. The physical sound creation needs to be right before any amount of EQ can get you a decent tone. Proper voicing through the tonebar screws, making sure the strikeline is set properly, and making sure the pickup distance from the tines is appropriate will all make your Rhodes sound brighter and punchier with less muddiness in the low-mids.
Proud owner,
1978 Rhodes Mark I Stage 73

leon-

Cormac, Dan
Thanks very much -  this is really helpful. I did start bypassing the stage controls a couple of weeks ago.
It sounds like my next thing is to check the voicing where the action sounds muddy.
Leon

leon-


OK, made a start on this last night. Would welcome any additional points to the following (graphic included).
green box - escapement screws, make sound.
orange box - next to green box. not sure what this screw adjusts (they seem fairly tight on my rhodes so didn't adjust any of them)
blue box - tuning spring
red boxes - distance between tine and pickup and screw needed to loosen to enable movement.
Its a basic diagram so if I've missed anything out in terms of 'voicing' the piano can you kindly let me know.
thanks.

Cormac Long

You've got it all there.. the nut you mentioned (orange box) is the tine/tonebar fastening nut and should be avoided. Its only used when replacing a tine or straightening the tine and tonebar alignment.
Regards,
   Cormac

Forum Administrator
admin@ep-forum.com

Twitter LinkedIn

leon-