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73 Fender Rhodes Mark I Tone Pot Help

Started by mydeadblues, February 16, 2014, 11:26:15 AM

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mydeadblues

So I recently picked up this 1971 Fender Rhodes suitcase piano.  I noticed the tone pot was not working, so I opened it up hoping to just spray some contact cleaner in it and I realized that it is not connected to anything.  I'd like to get this working again, does anyone know what to connect?  I am fine using a soldering gun, I just need to know what to attach  ;D.  Also, does this look like the original capacitor?  If I need to replace it, what size cap should I use?
Thank you!






David Aubke

Dave Aubke
Shadetree Keys

paulb

Try this link towards the bottom.  There is a photo and schematic showing the connections as well as the 47nF (.047) capacitor.  I assume this was the same for your 1971 stage model as with the later stage model pianos from the mid and later 70's?

http://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=7002.msg36555#msg36555
1977 Mark I Suitcase 73
1976 Mark I Stage 73
1975 Yamaha U1

mydeadblues

Thanks for the info guys! So the later models should have the same schematic correct? Should I go ahead and change the capacitor while I'm at it? If it's blown will it affect anything after I rewire it?
Thanks!

David Aubke

I'm pretty sure I've seen several different wiring schemes on the various Stage pianos I've worked on. There is more than one way to wire up a volume and tone pot to achieve the same final result. I plan on documenting future pianos that come through my shop.

I don't really know what a defective capacitor will do. I'd say the absolute worst that would happen is that it would somehow bleed all of your signal off to ground.
Dave Aubke
Shadetree Keys

Tine-E

#5
I don' think that my order for a reverse (anti-log) 50k-ohm pot was correctly supplied. I received a normal linear pot.
Would this still be useful by reversing the terminal connections?

sean


You will probably not be happy using the linear pot.  You will not get the gradual adjustment that the anti-logarithmic (reverse audio taper) pot provides.

You want the "reverse audio" taper so that when you twist the knob all the way to the right, you get a smooth swelling change to maximum bass, and it functionally matches with the silk-screened label on the name rail... Bass Boost.

If you use any other pot taper, you will get a drastic sudden change in tone with very small movement of the knob, or you will get nearly no change in tone with large movement of the knob.

Sean

Tine-E

You're right Sean.

The reason I ordered the linear was that Antique Radio (tubeasandmore) did not have  the log type. I ordered several other parts from them so I would save on ship costs.

Do you have a source for this?


sean


and...

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/R-V38-50K-RA


If you google for "50K reverse audio pot" you will  find lots of folks selling the right animal.   (Of course, you will also find heaps of almost-the-right-thing too, but that's google for ya.)  I am surprised that the ebay paid links are on top.

sean


sean



AAAACK!

Wait! 

David's link is the right one, mine is wrong.

You want the splined shaft so your knobs just push on and pull off. 

(My link shows a smooth shaft that would require knobs with a set screw.)

Sean

David Aubke

Quote from: sean on February 24, 2014, 08:48:42 AM(Of course, you will also find heaps of almost-the-right-thing too, but that's google for ya.)

http://www.xkcd.com/1334/
Dave Aubke
Shadetree Keys

sean

#12

I love xkcd.

When I did the google search for "50K reverse audio pot," I was hoping to find a few links discussing the Dark Side of The Moon and marijuana....


David Aubke

The munchkins dancing to Money is the best part.
Dave Aubke
Shadetree Keys

Tine-E

I need to review my Antique Radio invoice to check that pot model. They told me that it was a reverse but I had some doubts when I received it so I checked the resistance while turning the shaft and it was reading like a regular pot!

Thanks Sean and Dave.

Luis

paulb

Quote from: sean on February 24, 2014, 08:53:07 AM


AAAACK!

Wait! 

David's link is the right one, mine is wrong.

You want the splined shaft so your knobs just push on and pull off. 

(My link shows a smooth shaft that would require knobs with a set screw.)

Sean

I think his older style Fender knobs do have set screws.

Paul
1977 Mark I Suitcase 73
1976 Mark I Stage 73
1975 Yamaha U1