Some reeds too dang quiet

[sopranojam85]

Hello folks,

I'm working on a Wurlitzer 206A which has notes #36 and #37 that are entirely too quiet. I've done all I can think of to fix the issue, including:
-- Sanding all sides of the reed with emory paper, then 0000 steel wool (These reeds are shiny enough to shave with now.)
-- Sanding the harp surface contact point of the reed.
-- Removing all solder and starting over. (It now has a perfectly-shaped flattened pyramid of solder that is fit for a diorama.)
-- Setting proper let-off and check-off
-- Adjusting hammer striking point and gently filing hammer tip to be a bit more pointed.

No luck.

I've even tried swapping reed #37 with reed #38 and the issue follows the reed - not the key. (Admittedly, I probably should have done THAT before messing with the hammers, but what's done is done.)

It's seeming clear to me that I need new reeds. But I've read (here, and elsewhere) that reeds don't go quiet. They go flat and brittle, and then they break. Yet, the Wurlitzer 200 series service manual states "Any foreign material on the head of the reed will dampen the oscillation. If this does not cure the ring time, the reed should be replaced."

Am I missing something? Meanwhile, both Vintage Vibe and Retro Linear seem to be out of stock of their reeds, and even everyone's favorite auction site has some reeds, but not these ones. I'm kind of high and dry on reed supply unless someone knows of another source.

Thanks for any help!

[cinnanon]

To me it sounds like a new reed would do you justice. I believe all of the reeds from 21 up to yours are the same reed, just cut to shorter lengths (though sometimes they are harder to find because they seem to break just as easily). If you can find one between there, and are good with soldering, you could cut it to length and potentially make your own (though I think a lot of other people do this too).

I've swapped out whip assemblies before (quicker for me) to address strike line issues. Usually it works. I've also seen a good reed not work in another piano (dull).  I think the reed-bar was torqued or a resonant frequency was stealing the energy from the reed. Always something new with these things.

[pianotuner steveo]

I do not see how changing the reeds will make any difference at all, unless you somehow damaged them, or they are the incorrect reeds. You are correct that reeds go flat, then break when bad.  You are not supposed to sand, file or steel wool any part of a Wurlitzer reed other than the solder tip. There is a rust resistant coating that shouldn't be removed. Cleaning a reed should be done with light oil, not an abrasive.

Corrosion on the reed or where it contacts the reed bar could cause this, but it sounds like you checked that already.

Unless those reeds are home made, or are the wrong reeds for that model, I firmly believe the problem is elsewhere.

Things to check:

Did someone file the pickup around those reeds? (increasing the space around the reed tip and sides) That will make them quieter, and is also a no no.

Is it possible that someone added a chemical to those two hammers causing the felt to be softer?

Are you positive they are not letting off too early on those two notes?

[pianotuner steveo]

I just re-read your original post. I'm not picking on you, but for future reference, you should never file a Wurlitzer hammer tip either. They are just too small for this treatment that is normally done on acoustic piano hammers or old Rhodes teardrop hammers.

Are those two hammers in line with their neighbors? ( Front to back) if not, heating the glue joint with a soldering iron can be done to soften the glue, then gently move the tip forward or back. When they cool off, the glue should re- harden.

[sopranojam85]

All good questions!

I do not see how changing the reeds will make any difference at all, unless you somehow damaged them, or they are the incorrect reeds.

The piano was like this when it got to me, and I'm confident the low volume was not my doing. Not sure if they're incorrect reeds or not, and not sure if I'll ever know.

You are correct that reeds go flat, then break when bad.  You are not supposed to sand, file or steel wool any part of a Wurlitzer reed other than the solder tip. There is a rust resistant coating that shouldn't be removed. Cleaning a reed should be done with light oil, not an abrasive.

Well most of the debris was where it met the reed bar. The manual does state to use emory paper on the reed to address that issue. Maybe I shouldn't have steel-wooled the middle of the reed, is that what you mean? I couldn't find any reference to using oil in the service manual, unless this is something that is tribal knowledge, which I have equal respect for.

I just re-read your original post. I'm not picking on you, but for future reference, you should never file a Wurlitzer hammer tip either. They are just too small for this treatment that is normally done on acoustic piano hammers or old Rhodes teardrop hammers.

The service manual does specifically call out to do this if necessary, so that is one reason that I decided to try it. I actually did a very gentle filing of several hammers which needed it, because some notes had the felt heavily indented at the striking point. I'm well aware of how thin the felt is, so I did not file much at all. I filed from side towards the striking point, and not directly on the striking point. Obviously filing had no effect on this specific issue, though.

Did someone file the pickup around those reeds? (increasing the space around the reed tip and sides) That will make them quieter, and is also a no no.

No, the pickup is tight, and I checked the gap with my feeler gauge, it's around .005 on both sides, pretty normal.

Is it possible that someone added a chemical to those two hammers causing the felt to be softer?

I'm sure anything is possible at this point. When I had the reed bars off and was inspecting the hammers, I cannot feel any discernible difference in hammer hardness from treble to bass. If anything, the extreme treble hammers feel a bit harder, since their felt is thinner there.

Are you positive they are not letting off too early on those two notes?

I'm sure. I experimented with increasing and decreasing let-off, neither of which had any huge effect on the volume of the reed, so I left it at 1/8" let-off.

I did swap #37 with #38, and the issue followed the reed, not the hammer. Reed #38, when on hammer #37, played loud and clear.

[cinnanon]

Sounds like the reed to me! When they "Crack" and go flat, some filing is necessary to bring them up to pitch again (fairly easy to do, at least easier than adding solder). I'd say it's worth a shot to replace the reed.

On a side note, i've replaced reeds before, and the sustain was brilliant until I reached the desired pitch, and the tone was short-lived and dull. Again I think that was a resonant frequency problem or torqued reed-bar causing the problem. Strange things them wurlitzers.

[pianotuner steveo]

What reason does the service manual give for filing hammers? I will have to find my manual. Filing hammers in acoustic pianos is for removing grooves made by the strings. In an old Rhodes, it is to remove the groove caused by the tine. I can not think of any legit reason to file a Wurlitzer hammer. Like I said, they are just too dang small for this treatment. ( And the reeds don't really cut grooves into them) They can get flatter spots with heavy use, but fluffing the felt with a voicing tool may help this, not filing them.

You can't replace the felt that is filed off, and it's pretty hard to find replacement hammers.


Changing the 2 reeds is likely the thing to do now, they may be reeds for another model.


Filing the solder on a cracked reed is not going to help it at all. It's just going to break.

[sopranojam85]

Hey so, guess the database problems "ate" my last reply on this thread.

The problem was that these were the wrong reeds. They appeared to be 100 series reeds, as they were perfectly symmetrical. They looked just slightly different from the rest of the reed bases. Mystery is solved.