Help starting out on a Wurlitzer 700

[David Aubke]

I've never dug into a Wurlitzer before and I'm just wondering if anyone could enlighten me about common issues or pitfalls.
I can see that the dampening material will need to be replaced.


Maybe the hammers? maybe just a 'voicing'?


As I disassemble, are there any areas where I should be extra-cautious? like, "if you take this assembly apart, you'll be all week getting it back together"?

Also, in an earlier thread, it was possibly suggested I could use standard preamp phantom power to get sound from this thing (which is missing its preamp). Is it simply a matter of connecting one of the xlr pins to the end of the reed bar?

[Alan Lenhoff]

Are you doing this for your own amusement or for a client?

I don't mean to be Mr. Negative, but the 700 (and its portable sibling, the 120) can be very time-consuming and a challenge to work on. And even after they are repaired, they don't sound or play as well as most other Wurlis.  Some experienced techs run for cover when a client shows up with one. I'm not kidding.  This was not Wurli's finest hour.

Alan

[David Aubke]

Well, it's for a client. But it's cool. I'm really working on a Rhodes for him. He asked if I could look at the Wurli. I told him I'd never even seen one in person before and really didn't know the first thing. He seemed disappointed so I offered to look at it gratis just for the experience.

After what you've said, I know I now sound naive but I'm probably going to go in anyway. Because it is actually for my own amusement. I've been provided a PDF of the service manual and glancing through, it seems thorough enough.

There sure are a lot more parts - tiny, intricate parts - than in a Rhodes.

[Alan Lenhoff]

You clearly are a guy who enjoys exploring and learning, so I'm cheering you on.

Just remember, however,  that there ARE easier Wurli models to service and more rewarding models to play. So, don't let this be your lasting impression of Wurlis.  There is much to love about (other) Wurlis...

Alan

[cinnanon]

The reed bar will probably have shims under it. Be careful when you take those off. Follow the book in the order it tells you. The let off adjustment screw is basically a reverse flathead screw. You can make the tool from a piece of steel rod, grind a small groove in the top, and put a tight-fitting split pin over it. I just bent mine into a t-handle and viola!  Works like a charm. The sustain rod may be warped. That may need shimmed as well.  The small wooden screw adjustments on top I believe are for the dampers.  They are brittle and will crack easily if turned too hard. Also, I chopped mine. It's screwed and glued together and I put a connector so the amp can stay in the cabinet and the volume switch can stay in the mid. Much easier to move around. I can pick each one up with one hand.

[David Aubke]

Thanks.

Now, I don't have one of these rings (on the cufflinks, I'm good).


Is this going to be a problem?

[David Aubke]

On the Service Manuals page of the Vintage Vibe site, the manual for the 700 is an addendum. It and the manuals for the 120 and 112 all refer to some main manual that covers the range of models. For instance, on page 12 of the 700 manual it says "In the event excessive moisture in the air causes sluggish keys or action centers, they should be corrected according to the intructions given in the Wurlitzer Piano Service Manual."

What is the Wurlitzer Piano Service Manual?

[Alan Lenhoff]

I would think they are referring to this:  https://www.amazon.com/Wurlitzer-Piano-Service-Manual/dp/B01BA30IQQ

Given the similarity of the EP's action to that of an acoustic piano, I  think they're just telling a tech to use the same procedures he'd use on an acoustic piano with the same issues.  (Easing keys, shrinking action centers, etc.) 

(Maybe some acoustic piano techs on the list can chime-in here.  Steveo?)

Alan

[cinnanon]

"In the event excessive moisture in the air causes sluggish keys or action centers, they should be corrected according to the intructions given in the Wurlitzer Piano Service Manual."

What is the Wurlitzer Piano Service Manual?

I never noticed that...but all action centers can be treated as per the 200/200A manual.  8 Parts Naptha to 1 part silicone solution.  I use a heroin type needle...works well.

Looks like someone botched the damper felt repair.  I used the vintage vibe kit many times and it worked out well.  Be careful, if you don't glue the felts in the correct orientation, the damper doesn't reach the reed on some treble notes.  The damper's arm just rests on a part of the reedbar.

This model is not at easy to work on as others, but it's not terribly bad. Tuning is a b!+(# because the reeds are facing away from you.  My 700 sounds like butter.  Definitely a distinct sound. More hollow than the 200 series.

[Fred]

I would think they are referring to this:  https://www.amazon.com/Wurlitzer-Piano-Service-Manual/dp/B01BA30IQQ

Given the similarity of the EP's action to that of an acoustic piano, I  think they're just telling a tech to use the same procedures he'd use on an acoustic piano with the same issues.  (Easing keys, shrinking action centers, etc.) 

(Maybe some acoustic piano techs on the list can chime-in here.  Steveo?)

That's the one, Alan.

Wurlitzer EP's really do benefit from the ol' 8 to 1 ratio, as the action components are so small and people seem to stash these pianos in the strangest (or hottest/dampest of) places. On the opposite end of the spectrum, if you ever do dive into the acoustic realm (esp. grand pianos), you do want *some* resistance (larger parts, gravity, etc.) and 8 parts shrinking agent to one part lube is way to aggressive in the shrinkage dept.

[David Aubke]

Looks like someone botched the damper felt repair.

I was gonna ask...

The dampers on this are some sort of foam material. Research indicates we're using felt there.

So I guess my only question is, was it originally foam or is that what you mean by 'botched'?

[cinnanon]

I am 99.9% sure they were felt in the original. Even my 112 had felt. So did my 700.

[Alan Lenhoff]

Wurlitzer EP's really do benefit from the ol' 8 to 1 ratio, as the action components are so small and people seem to stash these pianos in the strangest (or hottest/dampest of) places.

Fred, you just inspired me to turn up the dehumidifier in my basement studio.  Gotta keep the 140B happy!

Alan

[pianotuner steveo]

And I am 100% sure that the dampers were always made from felt. My first Wurlitzer was a 700, I bought at a flea market in the mid '70's, and it is part of the reason why I am a piano tech today. It barely worked. I still have it, BTW.

You can use modern 200 series replacement damper felts. Yes, be careful when turning the wooden damper adjustment screws, they do break easily.
The reed bar shims were originally hard plastic, and insert into the Reed bar holes. It is very important to use these it at least some sort of isolating washers, like rubber to keep the screws from short the + and - of the bar. Never, ever use metal washers here.

The let off tool is available in Ebay. My life would have been much easier if eBay existed back then.

Do not mess with the hammer felts. I do not recommend it! They are too small to file. I can help you with any specific action questions as you need help. I have owned and worked on several 120's, and a couple of 700's. Even when they work as well as they can, the action is still clunky. The hardest thing to do is to adjust this action for a light touch. There is a fine line between getting the hammers to let of correctly and the hammers blocking against the reeds.

[pianotuner steveo]

Also, what do you mean by this is missing the preamp? This model did not have a small preamp PCB like the 200 series.....

There is DC voltage going to the Reed bar- it's very easy to get a shock.

Also! Remove the " Death Cap" if it has not been done yet.

The large disc cap that connects between the AC cord and ground! It was a bad idea!

[David Aubke]

Also, what do you mean by this is missing the preamp? This model did not have a small preamp PCB like the 200 series.....

It's missing all of its amplification components. Preamp, amp... whatever it had is currently in the possession of the instrument's owner.

[David Aubke]

The let off tool is available in Ebay.

Yeah, by some piano tuner from NY - I dunno. Price is OK so I'll take a chance.

[pianotuner steveo]

I wonder who he is??

[David Aubke]

The fly leathers appear to be lubricated.



1. What is this lubricant?
2. Should I clean those leathers or leave them alone?

[pianotuner steveo]

The lubricant back then was graphite powder. You can try to fluff them up a little with a small brass brush. Don't spend too much time on them. The action is pretty basic. It's more important to free up any sluggish action centers,and to get the dip and the letoff as close to being correct as possible.
It's not the best, as Alan said, but they do have their charm when they work properly. I think their unique sound has a lot to do with the tube amp w/no vibrato, and the large speaker.

Make sure it doesn't have the death cap!

( the cap between the AC power jack or fuse and ground)

[David Aubke]

Thanks steveo.

There is no amplification system in this unit right now so I'm not worried about zapping myself.

[pianotuner steveo]

Oh, that's right, I forgot that someone else is working on the amp. Will you be reinstalling the amp when it's done? If so, check for that cap to be sure it was removed...

I can speak from experience that one 120 that I owned had this cap and it was leaking voltage to ground, and it was coming out of the headphone jack when using it as an output to another amp! (Not a full 120v)

At that time, I didn't realize that I should have removed it, but I replaced it which solved the issue then.....

[David Aubke]

I doubt I'll be seeing that amplifier but I'll be certain to let the owner know of that issue.

[David Aubke]

You can try to fluff them up a little with a small brass brush.

I used an X-Acto knife and a toothbrush to kind of homogenize the surface and remove most of the old grease.


Also, does anyone know what type of knob would have been used here on the cheek block?

[pianotuner steveo]

I've seen at least 2 700's with their original knobs. They were brown plastic press on knobs. (not the set screw type). If you can't find a similar one online, try a local guitar shop. Mine has boxes of used knobs. If yours has any, you can probably find something similar. I no longer have my original knob to show you, unfortunately.  These looked different than the 140 series knobs. The 120/700 knobs didn't stand up tall, they were flatter and just round, and if I remember correctly, the top was convex.

[cinnanon]

Here is mine. Pretty sure it's original.
7/16" tall by 15/16" diameter.

[pianotuner steveo]

Yes, that's an original.

[cinnanon]

You can try Morelocks too.  They have original 112 knobs and 140B vibrato (or volume, forget which one they're out of) knobs. Betcha they got those too.

Also, what is the impedance of your speaker?  The schematic says 3.8 ohm but i'm reading about 6.8 which makes me think it's an 8 ohm speaker.

My speaker (I believe is original too) is a Jensen P12RC 220749.

[David Aubke]

This one reads 6.3

[vanceinatlance]

Looks same as the knob on my 700. I measured what looked to be 5/16" for the height and 15/16" diameter.
Don't know what the speaker impedance is on mine but I have a pic of its numbers if it helps. 

[cinnanon]

Your speaker is supposedly a magnavox?  Right part number though, EP-1031. Interesting.