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145 and 140B vs 200A decision

Started by FullyD, August 28, 2016, 01:54:55 PM

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FullyD

I have a 145 and 140B. Both look pretty nice and sound just ok. A lot of noise (static/popping) is heard when the vol/vib knobs are touched. They both have grounded plugs. I gig and record and they aren't up to my standard. Local repair shops are not an option. Had my hammond tech look at them both and he got them sounding better but still not great.  I am trying to decide if I should ship these off to a quality shop (from charlotte) which will be pricey, sell them both or try to swap them both for a 200a. I love the look of the 140's and the tone but the ease of repairs and/or replacement pairs for a 200 is nice. Thoughts if you were in my shoes?
Wurlitzer 140b
Wurlitzer 145
Wurlitzer 720b
Hammond B3 Leslie 122
Hammond A143 Leslie 147
Hohner Clavinet D6

Alan Lenhoff

Your 140B has the potential to be the best Wurli you'll ever play. Great tone, action and optical tremolo. Its only downside (other than weight) is that the amp tends to be hissy. After a little work on mine, I had no use for my 200A, and sold it. I've never missed it. 

Time for a road trip to a tech?

Alan
Co-author, "Classic Keys: Keyboard Sounds That Launched Rock Music"

Learn about the book: http://www.classickeysbook.com/
Find it on Amazon.com: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1574417762/

1965 UK Vox Continental;1967 Gibson G101 organ; 1954 Hammond B2; Leslie 21H; Leslie 31H; 1974 Rhodes Mark I Stage 73; 1972 Rhodes Sparkletop Piano Bass; 1978 Hohner Clavinet D6; 1968 Hohner Pianet N II; 1966 Wurlitzer 140B; 1980 Moog Minimoog Model D; 1983 Roland JX-3P; 1977 Fender Twin Reverb; 1983 Roland JX-3P synth; Vox AC30CC2X amp.
(See the collection: https://vintagerockkeyboards.com/ )

pianotuner steveo

#2
I agree with Alan. The 140 and 145 both are preferred over the 200A by most people as long as weight isn't an issue and the electronics are working at their best. I would choose whichever one you think plays better, but I would bet that they are similar. The 140B  amp may be easier to repair, but the amp isn't as loud as a tube amp.

I definitely would not sell them to get a 200A. If gigging is an issue, (weight) use a digital for live shows.
1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
1980 Wurlitzer 270 Butterfly Grand
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

FullyD

I agree with you both that the 200a isn't as good. It's not a weight issue...I move the Hammond for every gig. BTW, the 145 might not be a 145 (i don't know) no serial plate but it has a tube amp. I was told it was a 149...never heard of a 149 so I figure they were wrong. <u options (as gar as I know) are shipping it to either PA or Jersey for repairs which is super pricey. Not aware of any good places closer. Driving is 8 hours each way. Then there's replacing reeds or parts (if they break) which is not easy once the piano is in good order. I wish I new electronics but I don't. I really want the tube piano but sheezz, I'm in a pickle. The 200a starts looking like my only option.
Wurlitzer 140b
Wurlitzer 145
Wurlitzer 720b
Hammond B3 Leslie 122
Hammond A143 Leslie 147
Hohner Clavinet D6

Alan Lenhoff

Yes, you could buy a 200A, but wouldn't it likely need some work, too?  I would not let that 140B slip away from you! It's a very special piano.  If you still have any interest in fixing it, a couple of suggestions:

-- Call Retrolinear to discuss your piano's issues.  You've not been specific about what you find lacking in the piano's performance, but it's possible you could mail your amp to them, and that any action/regulation work necessary could be done by an acoustic piano tech in your area, using the Wurli manual as a guide.

--  I will send you by personal message contact info for a vintage keys tech located about 90 minutes from Charlotte. I have never used him for Wurli work, but I am well-acquainted with him, and have no hesitation in recommending him for his integrity, and his skills on other instruments.  He does service Wurlis, both electronically and mechanically. You may want to call him and discuss what he could do for you.

By the way, the reeds on the 140B are the same as the Model 200 reeds, so replacing them would not be a problem.

Alan

Co-author, "Classic Keys: Keyboard Sounds That Launched Rock Music"

Learn about the book: http://www.classickeysbook.com/
Find it on Amazon.com: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1574417762/

1965 UK Vox Continental;1967 Gibson G101 organ; 1954 Hammond B2; Leslie 21H; Leslie 31H; 1974 Rhodes Mark I Stage 73; 1972 Rhodes Sparkletop Piano Bass; 1978 Hohner Clavinet D6; 1968 Hohner Pianet N II; 1966 Wurlitzer 140B; 1980 Moog Minimoog Model D; 1983 Roland JX-3P; 1977 Fender Twin Reverb; 1983 Roland JX-3P synth; Vox AC30CC2X amp.
(See the collection: https://vintagerockkeyboards.com/ )

pianotuner steveo

There was no model 149. It could be a 140 or 145. Pictures may help us to identify it.
1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
1980 Wurlitzer 270 Butterfly Grand
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

DocWurly

#6
If it has a 145 amp, It could be a 145, a 145A, 145B, or a 146 (the student model).  [edit, 2023 --no! A 146 is solid state.  But it could also be a console: 720 or 720A.]

Each of these is different.

The 145 (circa 1962-3) has reeds that are more or less identical to the 1950's models, except for the bass register.  it has a unique sound.  I suspect that the Seeds' "Pushing Too Hard" is a 145.

The 145A (1963-4?) debuts new reeds (more or less like the 200's, and compatible with them) and terrible reed screw washers that crack and need to be replaced.  If the reed screws are replaced and the amp is recapped, these can be fantastic.

The 145B (1965? 1966-7, 1968?) [edit: 1964-5 only] is basically a tube version of the 140B.  In most but not all cases, the knobs will be on the cheek block (not the cover) and the dampers won't cover the reed screws.  These are as classic as the 140Bs (IMO).

pianotuner steveo

Wow, IVe never heard anyone else besides me try to guess what exact EP was used on " Pushing too Hard" by the Seeds. Most people don't even remember the song. That's a good guess, I'd say...
1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
1980 Wurlitzer 270 Butterfly Grand
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...

cinnanon


fromthepuggle

So I'm comparing wurli models to make a purchase, and trying to figure out which is best for me. There's a 140b near me, and it's a good price. Seems a lot of folks on this forum think the 140b is one of the best Wurlis made. I'd be using it for studio purposes, so I'm not concerned with weight. This one has an aux out. I'm not terribly concerned with action either, I grew up playing a very spongy Rhodes, but I'm very much interested in the best possible sound, particularly looking for a nice 'bark'.

How does the 140b compare to others in terms of sound? Why do people say it could be 'the best'? It's not a tube model, if I'm correct. Thoughts?

pianotuner steveo

#10
BUY IT!

The 140 series action is the best action they ever made. Electronics can be fixed or replaced if need be.

"Bark" is partly a result of signal processing in studio situations.
1960 Wurlitzer model 700 EP
1968 Gibson G101 Combo organ
1975 Rhodes Piano Bass
1979 Wurlitzer 206A EP
1980 Wurlitzer 270 Butterfly Grand
2009 73A Rhodes Mark 7
2009 Korg SV-1 73
2017 Yamaha P255
2020 Kawai CA99
....and a few guitars...