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Started by 5077, February 10, 2018, 05:30:09 PM
Quote from: sean on February 15, 2018, 02:27:09 AMI don't believe you are splitting atoms. You are inventing unicorn leprachaun atoms.The RCA connector has been providing hi-fidelity audio connections for more than seventy years.In situations where you don't have to worry about a cable getting yanked out, or needing strain relief, or care that the hot gets connected before the ground, or are not too picky about corrosion resistance, a plain-old RCA jack is great. Most folks that take their signal straight from the harp still use the factory-original RCA jack. Some folks get fancy and pay for a gold-plated RCA jack. Some folks mount a 1/4" jack on the harp. None of these are going to change your quality of life in any significant way.However, the reason that some people choose to take their signal direct from the harp (and avoid the bass boost and volume pot on the name rail) is because their choice of amplifier (or preamplifier) doesn't perform well with the Rhodes 10KΩ volume pot across the input.Many of the old-fashioned tube amps have high-value resistors across the inputs before the first tube.e.g., the Fender Twin circuit (schematic URL AWOL) shows that if you plug your Rhodes into Jack 1, the first component it hits is R1 - a 1-MegΩ resistor. If we plug our stage Rhodes into this jack, then we have put the 10KΩ volume control in parallel with this 1-MegΩ resistor. Even if we have the volume set to max on the namerail, this 10KΩ in parallel with the 1-MegΩ resistor brings the combined value down to 9,901 Ohms. This greatly reduces the (already low) signal strength of the Rhodes before it hits the first tube. This is the reason for the notorious tone suckage of the Stage Rhodes into some tube amps. This is also the reason that bypassing the namerail circuitry fixes the problem. If you come straight off the RCA jack at the back left of the Rhodes harp, then you have no 10K Ohm potentiometer to be in parallel with the input resistor on the amp.SeanI will have to find the online fender schematics and update the old post at https://ep-forum.com/smf/index.php?topic=6868.msg34468#msg34468
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