Messages

So i shaved a bit of some hammertips. Not the desired affect. Still having a heavy 'click'. I'm looking for new hammertips.

Looks like this is what I need:
44 to 57 http://www.ep-service.nl/joomla/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=61&category_id=47&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

58 to 73 http://www.ep-service.nl/joomla/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=62&category_id=47&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Could someone verify this?

Jordy

Hi guys,

Now that my English is much better () I can confirm the tips from 44 to 57 are feeling quite harder than the lower.
57 to 73 feels hard to, and I'm not sure if is the wooden core than makes it feel 'harder' or just the hardened rubber. 57 to 73 are making much more of the 'mechanical noise' than the below 44 so shave some of the top of the tips would improve the sound.

The tips from 57 to 73 contain less rubber than the lower ones, because of it is partly wood. Would it be save to shave those as well??

And if I would shave the tips (44, >) should i take the hammertip of the hammer, or should i take the whole hammer out of the piano? Or can I just shave a bit of the tip while it's entirely assembled?

Thanks
Jordy

I see, just got a Hotrod Deluxe, BTW!

Thanks for the input.

What's the deal with this amps?
Soundwise it's up there with the Twin Reverb, and defeats the clean of the Hot Rod series. I'm thinking about buying one (the RI), as i sold my JC-120? Any opinions?

I've played the RI Smallstone, the green Sovtek Smallstone as the 80's USA Smallstone. I've found the RI much more brighter than the 80's. The Sovtekhad the baddest bypass of the 3, and was most damp. The 80's was just the right one for me: it offered both warmth as clarity. Unfortunately it comes with some minor flaws, and can ruin your gig if you don't have any back-up.

Here are some really good comparisons of all versions, with guitar. http://www.pedalarea.com/small_stone.htm

I'd recommend you buy one, and just patch an input to it from the harp RCA jack.

Don't take it wrong, but if you need newby instruction on building it, you should buy it instead. It will be cheaper, and you'll avoid degrading the value of your Rhodes.

FWIW, I have a backlogged project where I aimed to design alternative electronics packages for mine. Someone with some building chops should be able to build the Dyno preamp for very small amount of money (the JFETs are super cheap).

Well, I've got the chops, but I don't understand anything of the circuit-diagrams, that's what i wanted to make clear. Are they called circuit-diagrams anyway? I meant these sort of pictures:  

I want to make a 3-band active EQ on my frontrail, I've got a '71 Stage with single-band passive EQ and volume pot.

How should I make the EQ? And please could you guys please tell me how to in newby English  

http://www.123video.nl/playvideos.asp?MovieID=496808&EMB=Logo

An all plexi suitcase is played in this vid.

Ok, thanks guys. I'm started with searching for auctions
Thanks for the info.

Hey guys,

I'm looking for a FiftyFour. I already have a '71 Stage 73 but its a bit to big. How much lighter is the 54 Mark II exactly?
Does anyone here own one?

Kind regards

Yes, actually now that you "took the hood off to hear it better" then it's certainly the hammertip hardness change, mechanical noise.  This is a common problem, the hammertips need to get hardner in order to be dense enough to strike the tines.  There isn't much you can do besides experiment with changing the hammertips to a lighter shore... however eventually it will have to be hard enough in the extreme upper register or the tines will not ring properly on attack.

That seems most logical to me. After I bought some monitors for my Hammond I'll ttry that.

Thanks

[right]

Here is the deal. When I was younger I needed monitoring for my Roland EM-20. I was 14 at the time so my parents choose what to buy. Some crappy salesman sold us the Roland CM-30's. The monitors only left my room for really small occassions. When I need more volume I use my JC-120. I'm not satisfied with that (soundquality-wise).

My CM-30's can go EXTREMELY loud with just my iPod attached. But they cant take the broad-frequency-spectrum of my keyboards at that volume(mostly the Hammond XK-1). The speaker starts clipping. Is there any magic-box which cuts the right frequencies of my XK-1 my CM-30 won't take at higher volumes?

I also noticed when I go through a mixer (Tapco mix50) the Hammond can go louder without clipping the speaker. Why is that? Is that a limiter?
Greetings,

Thank you guys so much! :D:D

I know they're just 2 main chords. But I can't get it right like the original Badu recording.

Could someone help me out?

Greetz Jordy  

Hey Jordy,

It sounds to me like you have a combination of hard hammer tips and really low escapement on those notes.   Try raising the whole tonebar/tine assembly up 1/8" or more, and see if the clack goes away.

If the clack becomes less annoying, then simply adjust the screws back down gradually to get the tone you want.

Drastic changes in escapement will cause a change in the location that the hammer tip hits the tine.  (The clacky noise could be helped by a strike point too close to the base of the tine, but the surrounding notes don't seem to suffer from that, so I wouldn't worry about a strikeline problem.)  Use strikeline as a final-stages-of-perfection adjustment.

While you are focused on these notes, take a few moments to confirm that the hammers themselves are securely mounted to the action rail, and the hammer comb is not loose.

Also, your 1971 piano has the head-heavy half-wood hammers with tall square neoprene tips, right?  This makes tip replacement more difficult (harder to find the tall square tips, or you have to re-set the harp shims to compensate for the smaller trapezoidal/pointed replacement tips).

If those few tips are remarkably hardened, you can try removing a sliver off the top of the tip with an exacto knife (be prepared to cut your finger and drip a little blood on the piano).  The chewy center of the hammer tip might be soft enough to fix your problem.

I think I will get that done by a tech. But I don't have the money right now. I've got some pretty good results by turning the other screw too. I pretty happy now with it.  Is it possible to break something or something could be damaged by turning the screws?

Thanks so far, guys!

[(E7-stagemodel: D6 and later E7 had two pickups and various tone switches, plus variable damper. E7 was like D6 in a more roadworthy case. First E7s were actually labelled D6. Later E7s had angled damper slot).]

I have already been to Clavinet.com, but havn´t recieved an answer. Therefor I wrote I wrote here, since I figured somebody might know.

The Black D6 is a transition model from the wood D6 to the black E7. Thats the problem, because I dont know if the electronics is exactly the same as the E7.
So if anyone knows, please let me know.

Thanks
Rune.

Found this on an Dutch-auction site (http://link.marktplaats.nl/229806861):

(E7-stagemodel: D6 and later E7 had two pickups and various tone switches, plus variable damper. E7 was like D6 in a more roadworthy case. First E7s were actually labelled D6. Later E7s had angled damper slot).

Are the hammertips the square cube felts or the neoprene?

It could be either bad grooves in the tips, possibly a moving of pickups back/tone adjustment (screw farthest from the keys), or maybe the strikeline is off and they're twanging a bit - but that's least likely.

They're black and rubbery, i think it's the neoprene.

-The tips contain no grooves whatsoever
-I kept tweeking the furthest screw a couple of minutes now, and I know what it's suppost to do, but it didn't make any difference.

So, how do I know if the strikeline is of?

And, maybe helpful; B4 to E5 are clicking a lot more when the hood is of (acousticly-speaking, (I made an YT-video for clarifying that: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZtj1asLG8)
(thanks btw, for helping so far)

Is that the very top octave?  I'm trying to remember if that would then be woodcore tips.  You might be able to immediately resolve it with EQ if it's the very top.

Nah, it's not an EQ-case already tried that. (you mean external EQ right?)




It are just these keys which I've trouble with. (the rest is just fabulous)

Hi guys,

B4 to E5 sounds a LOT more trebly than the other notes on my Rhodes.
Which screws should I turn (and in which direction) and can it be cured at all?

Thanks,
Jordy

You can make this little part out of any cheap little pine or poplar available at your local hardware store, but you get much better tone and sustain if you make it with lumber cut from the heartwood from a Norfolk Island Pine overlooking the white pointers on Manly Beach.

Actually the pine harvested in the early 1970s sounds far superior to anything harvested today.

hahaha, hilarious

Herbie showed up behind dark glasses and a Rhodes Suitcase on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial.  Many postings on youtube already:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO6wCO5LxCg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnJXBQGY3lc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcKZlmCZWBY
etc.


Stevie and his D6 also were a treat to watch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHRZ-6biyMw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kK0dqUncVJQ


HBO ran it unscrambled, and they will run it again... http://www.hbo.com/

removed

ribbed for her pleasure

lol

Friends,
I just shot this today, thought some of you out there might be interested.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FpEzVCqVkA&feature=channel_page
Respectfully,
Rhythmicons

Thanks dude

sounds like you are missing the pedal guide plate:

http://www.ep-service.nl/joomla/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=106&category_id=46&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

kind regards
Mark II

Talking about a pedal-guide-plate, mine doesn't have on too. Does  '71 Fender Rhodes even have one at all?

Hahahaha, right on

[everything]

Here's my lady in red with some other toys...







soon to be united with another mistress...

Good lord, that's everything I want to purchase in my life :O (besides things i need to live in/of )

I know he was a trumpet player, and this is a Fender Rhodes forum, BUT...  you will have surely heard some great Rhodes work listening to Freddie's CTi work.  It's a sad day for jazz lovers.  I wish I had seen him play.

That's really  sad, I never had the pleasure to see him live. Thanks for mentioning it.

RIP Mr. Hubbard

I recently stumbled on this video of Mike Roelofs.
Here's someone who really can play. Check it out :  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDCQpLWem_U


Its a Mark 2 , believe it or not.

Rob "I wish my name was Wally" Coops

Thanks Rob, vette s**t

Hi, I've been playing in a jamband for some time now. And I transcribed all chords of this song, but I don't succees playing the Rhodes riff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HJ95iFsBtk&feature=related

0:55 to 0:57

could somebody tell me what is actually played?

I think the Leslie sim sound OK only if in stereo. IE: not the twin.  (Unless you're going for the John Lord sound)

Mine is pretty good.  I've had some power supply issues.  The connectors break loose from the board.  Pain in the ass when you're in a solo and it reboots/power cuts out.  (been intermittent  since I got it.)

Keys are a little sloppy/lateral motion. I've had two break.  I wasn't doing any thing crazy either.   Just a run up (not gliz)  and *snap*!  They're $4 from Roland, so, not too bad.

All in all, I think  I'd get another one if I had to.  

Oh, one last thing.  Menu diving for chorus/vib selections (1,2,3) sucks.

John Lord used Marshall, the overdrive from the Twin won't mix well with the Hammond

Great looks and sounds, how did you get your harpcover that black?



EDIT: Nevermind, used cockpit-spray (yeah, that stuff to clean your car's dashboard with) Cheap and works great, it makes your harpcover shiny and intense black.

What do you think of an enhancer let's say like a BBE 362 sonic maximizer.
Does it really improve the sound of the piano? What can one expect and how do you plug it, directly?

It's said the sound get's more clarity. Treble-soundwaves usually take more time reaching your eardrum than bass- and midsoundwaves. The sonic maximizer takes the treble out of the soundspectrum of your rhodes and processes it faster than the mid and bass so the treble has its time to reach your eardrum earlier.

I personally DO think the logo's matter, I think when everything is in original condition it will be worth a lot more.

[SO]

That thing is SO cool!

Yes...sounds really great.

Fender Rhodes Mk1 --> Leslie Combo Preamp 3 --> Leslie 860  

Absolutely amazing on chorale, very spatial sound. I'm loving it !

Perhaps not so many bass as on my  (ex) Leslie 760, cause the 860 only have a 12'' woofer, but it's still really good.

Did the same thing with the same gear.

Cool

[How do I remove this topic?]

May I ask why you'd want to use an EQ? The Equalization in your JC not enough?

No because I usually turn the bass up. And when I turn on the phaser it sounds really muddy. I want a bass-boosted tone going into the phaser. And a bit treble boost on the JC.




Edit: Just tried what i wanted with an EQ I borrowed from a friend.
Well, it's sounds really cliniccal at DX-7-ish. I don't like it.

No ext. EQ for me anymore.

How do I remove this topic?

[27,5]

mmmh
let`see, a 88 model starts at A0 = 27,5 Hertz equal temperated and ends at C8=4186 Hertz. that are the fundamentals only, so if you have a chimey sound with alot of overtones, you will have to multiply the upper end with at least 5. that's where you ear will quit working correctly. so, ...who cares ?!?

for the 73 model it's 41 (E1) to 2637 (E7) Hertz.

hope this help in any way.
kind regards

Mark II

Yes it does, it seems like the MXR is only working with an 73.

The MXR works from 31.25 hz till 16000 Hz


Thanks for the reply

[pedals]

Hi all,

I want a pre-phaser equalizer. I have bought an Roland EQ-131 (19" 31-bands). It seem to add a lot of hiss, and when I compared the bypass-mode to the normal sound (all sliders at 0) it lost a lot it's warmth.  

I'm selling the EQ-131 and I'm searching for an other equalizer.
I'm interested in EQ-pedals so I can bypass and adjust it with my foot.

The MXR 10-band EQ looks really neat (with all the lights and stuff) but I'm worried the range of the EQ won't cover the whole spectrum of my Rhodes-sound (since the EQ is made for guitar)
Does anyone know between which frequencies the Rhodes is?

Greetings,
Jordy

If you want some crunch, buy a Twin Reverb
If you want absolute clean and minimum coloration, try a JC-120 (like I did)

hi all, i have been restoring my rhodes for the last 6 mounths, and its nearly ready. But when i press the sustain pedal the whole piano moves. its all screwed together nice and tight..........any ideas are welcome....

thanks,

hi martin,

it could be your sustainrod is too long, your rod is the right length when the pedal itself is upwards (ready to pushed in) and you rod is as long as possibe as long as it doesn't move the dampers away from the tines.

sorry my english isn't that good

if you listen to the song all the way through you can hear parts where it sounds like he is using that pedal. Its either vibes (which I really dont think so) or its the pedal. You can hear in the very beginning if you listen really close you can hear the sound of the hammers hitting the tines and it certainly sounds like a percussion modded Rhodes. Now he certainly doesnt sound like he uses it thoughout the song, but it sounds like he certainly uses it in parts.

What the perc pedal does is decrease the sustain and just makes is staccato. It sounds like a slapped Rhodes. The "slaps" at the beginning is just how a Dyno Rhodes sounds when hit hard. Listen to George Duke/Stanley Clarke's Brazilian Love Affair he does it quite often.

Percussion pedal mod.

I don't think so

Just curious, why do you ask? Are you looking to buy one? If so, I have heard that the XB2 although cheap and easy to find, is trouble prone.I had one and never had a lick of trouble with it,but I was told that I was lucky.The only reason why I sold it is because I wanted waterfall keys so I bought an XK-2 which I am real happy with.I couldnt afford an XK-3 and dont think the extra features would have made much difference to me anyway. I use mine with a boss stereo leslie simulator which is better than the built in simulator.
Having grown up with a REAL hammond, I am very happy with these digital simulations.It is far better than just a few Hammond patches on a digital keyboard and they are far closer to the real thing than any Electric piano patch I've ever tried.

Yes... I want a portable alternative to my bigger Hammond's

That was fucking pathetic. I know he was pissed on the crew for constantly lightning his audience, but this is horrible.

Just like those horrible videos featuring Keith Emerson

You mean like this???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xggFzkyd288

I'm not a big fan of that either. The Billy Joel video did give me a chuckle, though :lol:

Yes, shoot that moron

Here's a good one... Go Billy!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jl3E-cwA6y8

That was fucking pathetic. I know he was pissed on the crew for constantly lightning his audience, but this is horrible.

Just like those horrible videos featuring Keith Emerson

Thanks Sean, always handy to have such a scheme

Sand it with 80 grit paper along the same sanding grooves that was left by the factory. It is an aluminum casting.

Then put 2 coats of lacquer on it. It will look like new.

Danny

That was the kind of stuff i wanted to hear really, know i know sure i won't sand of some coats of it which will prevent it from rusting (now i know it cant rust it's ok)

I will try it with the copper stuff first, if that doesn't work, i'll use some of that steelwool my mom uses to clean te stove , and if that doesn't work i'm going to sand it.

As close as I can get for now.

For the ||  Db/Ab   Eb/Bb  |  A   Bsus2  || section, it doesn't sound like complex chords are going on. The last two almost sound like open fifths.

Everything else should be right (as Bmaj7/Db is also Db13sus4).



http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/multmin/ChameleonExt-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/multmin/ChameleonExt-2.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/multmin/ChameleonExt-3.jpg

nice dude

How did it go?

I meant to post a while back about the "Never Dull." It'll work wonders on it's
own, but found out that it you use a dremel and buff it after you'll, get a luster like no other!!!

o sorry forgot, i'll tried to find it,
couldn't...
i thinking using copper-polish and dremel it like u just said.

Hi all,

I used to be an avid member of the rhodes club (had a 1972 rhodes mk1) that was beautiful, however I traded it for a Yamaha CP-60m...which is great and amazing and really makes it sting a little less.  Lately, I've been really wanting that sound that I lost back, and I'd love to purchase a rhodes 54.  I have some cash now, and will be getting more, but I'm looking for a player (to take out and play) versus a pristine museum piece.  Thanks in advance!

Caleb

http://link.marktplaats.nl/196308184